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Old 12-07-2012, 12:56 PM   #16
vintagerider
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Unlikely that the disconnected low voltage injector control cable would ignite fuel. Not familiar with these particular QD's but all the ones I have seen would not be pushed open by objects once they are fully disconnected. If this flaw does exist then they should be discarded. The important thing is for riders to perform an inspection and to make corrections to the fuel distributor and piping.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
Telelever looks broken where it attaches to engine. Whats up with that?

Was the carbon evap kanister still installed? It is in the vicinity of the small rear "flame".
European bike - I believe only US market bikes have the charcoal canister.

Don't know what you mean about the telelever - are you referring to the picture of the fire?

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Old 12-07-2012, 02:55 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
Unlikely that the disconnected low voltage injector control cable would ignite fuel. Not familiar with these particular QD's but all the ones I have seen would not be pushed open by objects once they are fully disconnected. If this flaw does exist then they should be discarded. The important thing is for riders to perform an inspection and to make corrections to the fuel distributor and piping.
Sparky spark between leads- not to ground - is possible for High Voltage (>100v) systems in a vacuum, Kilovolts are required to generate a spark in our atmosphere. Our ignition coils put out Kilovolts. The GS fuel injection connectors max out at 14v, it would take a short to ground while the injector was being fed volts to spark.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post

Unlikely that the disconnected low voltage injector control cable would ignite fuel.

Not familiar with these particular QD's but all the ones I have seen would not be pushed open by objects once they are fully disconnected. If this flaw does exist then they should be discarded.
Breaking an electrical connection when 15+ watts of power is flowing makes a pretty good spark. Even more so because the connector break collapses the EM field in the injector winding. Think miniature ignition coil.

Regarding the disconnects, the pictures below are the most common QDs out there. The OEM plastic version and the metal version made by the same company, Colder Products. The sealing valve on female side is protected by the connector body. But the male side has an exposed plunger. Press on that white plastic plunger and you'll get fuel in your eye.





(Installation note. When installing the disconnects, locate the female side of the connector on the pressure side. You know, on the 'upstream' side.)


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Old 12-07-2012, 11:27 PM   #20
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Still not biting. I've seen the injector contacts corroded from leaky inj boot but never pitted from intermittent contact/arcing. Seems that their are locked on or no contact at all as the sponge gasket kinda ejects the plug. Anton's explanation is more plausible to me.

"Most common QD"
Can't say why so many were sold. Even more perplexed on why they were never recalled. Takes a few grams of pressure to open the valve. The few QD's that I've purchased were marine grade. Never had a problem. They have a collar which slides down to unlock, heavy spring acting on large ss ball sealing on fat Viton seals. Not that I'm recommending them. Challenger ought to make pp wary of all fuel o-rings, brilliant as Kubrick's work is.

Plenty satisfied here with pulling the Wix 33323 out of the front frame to free the fuel feed hose when pulling the tank.

OP, my old eyes are playing tricks. The cross over laying on the telelever had me fooled. CA fuel won't ignite even when you pour it on hot exhaust, guessing you have real gasoline :0)
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:13 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post

I've seen the injector contacts corroded from leaky inj boot but never pitted from intermittent contact/arcing.
Mike's 'on fire' pic shows both the 'return line' fuel connector and injector connector unplugged. He thinks they may have got that way via a prankster pressing the release levers on both those parts, but leaving them look like they are still connected. That assessment seems about the most reasonable since the connectors cannot disconnect themselves.

After a bit of riding the 'pranked' fuel line connector and fuel injector connector will separate. You've seen how easy fuel can spray from the male side of the fuel connector. That leaves the fuel injector connector.

Disconnecting the fuel injector while under power makes a healthy spark. (And gives you a 100V+ shock if powering the injectors on the test bench via alligator clips!) PLenty enough spark to ignite gasoline.

With one fuel injector disconnected, and one cylinder not getting any fuel, the catalyst runs very cool. One cylinder is simply a cool air pump, and plain air doesn't catalyze.



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Poolside screwed with this post 12-08-2012 at 04:18 AM
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:07 PM   #22
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Jim, Others may be confused. You agree that a completely disconnected plug won't produce ignition? If inj connector is completely unplugged then where did the spark come from? Do you not believe hot exhaust is a possible ignition source?

As far as tampering, I have managed to leave both the QD and the Inj plug not totally connected. Only ran with the QD connected but not fully locked

Lets get back to prevention:
1. always shut down, don't idle. A fuel leak in motion is not nearly as dangerous as one at idle
2. replace rubber hoses every (3-4?) yrs when they harden crack
3. inspect black nylon fuel distributor (daily?) replace it every (_? months) or whenever it shows signs of (_?)
4. install automatic foam deployment system
5. can you live w/o QD's

Or, Non of the above, just wear fire resistant clothing?
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
Lets get back to prevention:
1. When your bike is running so crappy that it will only run at WOT, consider PAYING ATTENTION TO THE BIKE rather than leaving it locked at the aforementioned WOT while you go do something else.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:30 AM   #24
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2004 1150 Adventure US model, ABS









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Old 12-09-2012, 11:41 AM   #25
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(Installation note. When installing the disconnects, locate the female side of the connector on the pressure side. You know, on the 'upstream' side.)

Good advice. I will remember it
Thanks.

Pekka
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:56 AM   #26
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Where's your timing hole cover?

Seems it's missing in the second photo.

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2004 1150 Adventure US model, ABS









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Old 12-10-2012, 07:57 AM   #27
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The PIA OEM plug went into the bin long ago. I replaced it with a /2/5/6/7 part I found one early morning heading to breakfast in Big Sur. That one got hard from the heat and I pitched it and replaced it with a brand new one I promptly lost about 50,000 miles ago.
Doesn't seem to bother me much. It hasn't been a problem where I live, or where I've ridden. (Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington). So, I saved myself a few cents. I don't look in there anyway. It's dark and scary. Could be spiders, in fact when I moved the bike to make the pictures I saw one scurrying away.
Since All I get to do is walk around the bike every few weekends.

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Seems it's missing in the second photo.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:37 AM   #28
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Seems it's missing in the second photo.
Yes and so is the RH leading link pivot cover...shame.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #29
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F* that cover! I'm missing mine again too.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:58 AM   #30
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Mine have popped off several times. I blame the fuel lines.
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F* that cover! I'm missing mine again too.
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