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Old 12-06-2012, 06:54 PM   #16
jzeiler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip22 View Post
I like my bike to not blow it up.. I'd rather spend $175 for a new part than deal with insurance.. Convincing them my bike just blew up for no reason or because i dropped it may only work in movies..

Just sayin' the pump motor brushes are sparking all the time the fuel pump is running and it is immersed in the fuel. You have to have the right fuel/air mixture to get gasoline to burn or explode and in the tank it is just not condusive to burning unless you induce plenty of air. That is why a flooded engine won't run. But I'll admit I pulled it out of the tank to do it, just in case ( I couldn't explain it to the insurance guy either, at least not with a straight face). But it was still sopping wet with fuel when I pulled the trigger. No fire no explosion. But I highly recommend a full tank if you are not going to pull the strip out to do this. That would be the safest way to do it on bike.

The good news is the MTE is still re-calibrating itself. Today I hit the low fuel warning @50 to E (normally it would be around 45). The fill up with 31 to go was 4.1 gallons. The MTE after filling was 199 vs.166 the first time and it also counted up as I drove but I only put 7 miles on it after fill up. I suspect that after two or three tank full cycles the MTE and low warning will be back to normal.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:33 PM   #17
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So what EXACTLY did you do?
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:53 PM   #18
jzeiler
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Originally Posted by WeazyBuddha View Post
So what EXACTLY did you do?
After reading about Joel Wisman's discovery working with the BMW Parts Boss on the use of a Megger when testing failed strip he discovered the megger's high voltage was "reconnecting" the broken thick film resistor.

I looked for a suitable source of high voltage just like a megger to do the same thing. Tried zapping the two center pins of the connector (sensor leads as the two outer are the heater leads) with a piezo electric fire place lighter with the butane disabled. I used a Scripto brand as the nose (where the spark and fire are) was round and had flutes that could be bent back to get the "sparky" bits up close to the desired two center pins. I wanted a short burst of high voltage with low current and no flame. The lighter worked perfectly.

I did have the strip out of the tank for testing reasons but it was still wet with fuel when I did this on the work bench. There did not appear to be any "spark" leakage outside the mylar covering on the strip. So I would not hesitate to do this on-bike but would recommend a full tank just to be safe.

It appears that the high voltage "finds" the microscopic crack in the substrate resistor material and welds it back together or forms a carbon trace that re-connects the break. I would like to get some strips to do some inspection and testing on to confirm this. Just know it works.

I guess if I can get a hold of some bad strips I could do a video and post that.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:29 PM   #19
roadtrip22
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Thanks for the update. Ill see what I can come up with maybe if I ask around enough I may be able to come across some old fuel strips for experimenting
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:16 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info, Jzeiler
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
After reading about Joel Wisman's discovery working with the BMW Parts Boss on the use of a Megger when testing failed strip he discovered the megger's high voltage was "reconnecting" the broken thick film resistor.

I looked for a suitable source of high voltage just like a megger to do the same thing. Tried zapping the two center pins of the connector (sensor leads as the two outer are the heater leads) with a piezo electric fire place lighter with the butane disabled. I used a Scripto brand as the nose (where the spark and fire are) was round and had flutes that could be bent back to get the "sparky" bits up close to the desired two center pins. I wanted a short burst of high voltage with low current and no flame. The lighter worked perfectly.

I did have the strip out of the tank for testing reasons but it was still wet with fuel when I did this on the work bench. There did not appear to be any "spark" leakage outside the mylar covering on the strip. So I would not hesitate to do this on-bike but would recommend a full tank just to be safe.

It appears that the high voltage "finds" the microscopic crack in the substrate resistor material and welds it back together or forms a carbon trace that re-connects the break. I would like to get some strips to do some inspection and testing on to confirm this. Just know it works.

I guess if I can get a hold of some bad strips I could do a video and post that.
If ever I saw a "how to" post that needed a disclaimer that was it.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:25 PM   #22
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:41 PM   #23
screwit
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Puke .

Should be about a million old fuel strips floating around. Stupidest f@&$ing thing I've ever seen. I quit fixing my 2007 GS gauge after the second one quit. If I ever come across the idiot who designed it I'm gonna bitch slap him.



Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip22 View Post
Thanks for the update. Ill see what I can come up with maybe if I ask around enough I may be able to come across some old fuel strips for experimenting
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:08 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
You can continue to have your dealer replace them under warranty or you can fix them yourself -on the bike with $3.50 tool.

Just zap the two middle pins in the fuel flange four pin connector with a scripto piezo electric lighter. Disconnect the connector and stick the opened end into the flange connector and click it two or three times. The sensor element in the strip is not as flexible as it should be and develops fractures causing an open circuit.

The momentary high voltage arc from the lighter travels the length of the sensor substrate and fuses it back together. I am on my first strip and it failed two weks ago. After zapping it it has worked for two tank fulls.

Note that during the first fill up the Miles to Empty function will re-calibrate itself and be back to normal after about 40 miles of driving.
Any chance you could post a pic of the lighter. How do you set it up to the strip? Are you saying you just have to get it close not actually in contact with the terminals?
Would a replacement BBQ ignition with the end pressed against the terminals do the trick?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:52 AM   #25
mikegc
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Fuel strip fix?

Quote:
Originally Posted by screwit View Post
Should be about a million old fuel strips floating around. Stupidest f@&$ing thing I've ever seen. I quit fixing my 2007 GS gauge after the second one quit. If I ever come across the idiot who designed it I'm gonna bitch slap him.


His name is Günter Himmeler and he's Director of Seating Comfort & Fuel Strips. I'm told he's a great guy but very sensative. Just sayin' . . . . . .

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Old 12-08-2012, 09:11 AM   #26
jzeiler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOLVERINE View Post
Any chance you could post a pic of the lighter. How do you set it up to the strip? Are you saying you just have to get it close not actually in contact with the terminals?
Would a replacement BBQ ignition with the end pressed against the terminals do the trick?
It would be I don't appear to have a high enough odometer count to post photo attachments (or at least I haven't figured it out yet). But I found this : http://www.instructables.com/id/Scri...hter-Teardown/

Just carry through to step 5 pull the hose and the little white block where the hose is and put it back together. This will allow you spark with impunity and create no flame. Look at the other end - it should be round with little tabs bent inward. Bend them out with some small pliers. You are now ready to zap the strip.

If you do it on bike (use a full tank just to be safe as the strip is completely submerged when the tank is full) just unplug the cable with the four wires from the fuel flange. The sensor pins are female in that connector and male on the fuel flange. Stick the end of the lighter in the center of the fuel flange connector ( make sure you don't have a fuel leak ). And pull the trigger a few times. Hook the connector back up and start the bike. You should see a fuel level reading within a minute or two.

If you do it off bike the stip has a female connector and you should find some pins to stick in the two center holes (small sraight pins will work) the place the tip of the lighter over the pins and pull away. If you have a meter you can check to see if you were successful before you re-install the strip. Just measue the resitance on those two pins and you should see about 2.7 k ohms. If not zap again.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:27 PM   #27
Strong Bad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
It would be I don't appear to have a high enough odometer count to post photo attachments (or at least I haven't figured it out yet). But I found this : http://www.instructables.com/id/Scri...hter-Teardown/

Just carry through to step 5 pull the hose and the little white block where the hose is and put it back together. This will allow you spark with impunity and create no flame. Look at the other end - it should be round with little tabs bent inward. Bend them out with some small pliers. You are now ready to zap the strip.

If you do it on bike (use a full tank just to be safe as the strip is completely submerged when the tank is full) just unplug the cable with the four wires from the fuel flange. The sensor pins are female in that connector and male on the fuel flange. Stick the end of the lighter in the center of the fuel flange connector ( make sure you don't have a fuel leak ). And pull the trigger a few times. Hook the connector back up and start the bike. You should see a fuel level reading within a minute or two.

If you do it off bike the stip has a femal connector and you should find some pins to stick in the two center holes (small sraight pins will work) the place the tip of the lighter over the pins and pull away. If you have a meter you can check to see if you were successful before you re-install the strip. Just measue the resitance on those two pins and you should see about 2.7 k ohms. If not zap again.
I too would like to see a pic of exactly the lighter is hooked up to the strip.

You don't post pics as attachments on this site no matter what your "mileage" is . You use a free file sharing host like Photobucket.com. You upload your pic to the "image host" and then copy and paste the image code from the host to your post here. Fast easy and no cost.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #28
screwit
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Hmmmm

Looks like a puss.. I think I could take him, here hold my beer for me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mikegc View Post
His name is Günter Himmeler and he's Director of Seating Comfort & Fuel Strips. I'm told he's a great guy but very sensative. Just sayin' . . . . . .

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Old 12-08-2012, 03:50 PM   #29
jzeiler
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Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
I too would like to see a pic of exactly the lighter is hooked up to the strip.

You don't post pics as attachments on this site no matter what your "mileage" is . You use a free file sharing host like Photobucket.com. You upload your pic to the "image host" and then copy and paste the image code from the host to your post here. Fast easy and no cost.
OK I will go shoot some pics and set up an account to post them with. Thanks.

Lighter



Bend the tabs out



Simulated fuel strip connector (use your imagination as I was not pulling out of the tank) with small wires inserted into the center two pins.


Put the wires into the end of the lighter and pull the trigger.




OK The shots are a bit big and so is the end of the lighter it really does not fit well into the fuel flange connector but you could still do it with some small brass tubing slipped over the male pins to bring them up and out of the connector for zapping.

Looks like the best way to do this is to remove the strip from the tank and zap it.
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jzeiler screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 08:44 PM
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzeiler View Post
OK I will go shoot some pics and set up an account to post them with. Thanks.

Lighter


Bend the tabs out



Simulated fuel strip connector (use your imagination as I was not pulling out of the tank) with small wires inserted into the center two pins.


Put the wires into the end of the lighter and pull the trigger.




OK The shots are a bit big and so is the end of the lighter it really does not fit well into the fuel flange connector but you could still do it with some small brass tubing slipped over the male pins to bring them up and out of the connector for zapping.

Looks like the best way to do this is to remove the strip from the tank and zap it.
Would a couple of small alligator clips work to get the terminals exposed more?
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