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Old 12-09-2012, 11:03 AM   #71731
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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TREE used this. There are more photos and info in the link.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=65

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:36 AM   #71732
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Couple of pics.
This is what I found when I got home....

bummer.
My real concern here is for your valves. When the header is broken like that ... the head is open directly to cold air rushing in onto red hot valves.
In some cases the cold air can cause valves to warp a bit.

I know our Auto mechanic guys here know about this. Is this of concern?
Or would one need to run for hours and hours like this to have a bad out come on valves?

I ruined a Go Cart lawnmower motor once, header pipe broke off. 11 year old kids? ... cool! LOUD! We kept riding. Motor didn't run too good after that!
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:37 PM   #71733
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
I ended up grinding an Allen wrench, way down to where there was barely enough shank to fit into the screw head to replace my screws.
same here
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:47 PM   #71734
procycle
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
... the head is open directly to cold air rushing in onto red hot valves.
In some cases the cold air can cause valves to warp a bit.

I know our Auto mechanic guys here know about this. Is this of concern?
Or would one need to run for hours and hours like this to have a bad out come on valves?
I've always been skeptical of the old 'warp your valves' claim. I can't see how a little bit of cool air could do any harm. Especially since the exhaust valve heads get a blast of cool air on every intake stroke anyway.

My own opinion of where this old wives tale came from is this: If the motor had a restrictive exhaust and loosing the whole system caused the fuel mixture to become too lean - then you could easily damage the exhaust valves,
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #71735
sunthechip
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Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 94
Paint job

Paint job

I did it myself instead of paying $40 for the decal.

Thanks for the help Tokyoklahoma.

Supplies:
-Krylon Fusion for plastic- White gloss and black gloss.
-Frog tape.
-Exacto knife

Painter's tape and an exacto:


Peeling away the stencil:


Prepping for paint (I had already done the white coating):


Painting:


Finished product:


Affixed:
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #71736
blk-betty
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Oddometer: 2,337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
bummer.
My real concern here is for your valves. When the header is broken like that ... the head is open directly to cold air rushing in onto red hot valves.
In some cases the cold air can cause valves to warp a bit.

I know our Auto mechanic guys here know about this. Is this of concern?
Or would one need to run for hours and hours like this to have a bad out come on valves?

I ruined a Go Cart lawnmower motor once, header pipe broke off. 11 year old kids? ... cool! LOUD! We kept riding. Motor didn't run too good after that!
Burning up the valves was the first thing I thoguht of and in the forefront of my mind while riding home.

I really babied it and it seemed to run fine at low rpms, albiet loud, never reved beyond half-throttle.

Debating on just picking up a take-off OEM or going with the FMF PowerBomb stainless header.

Anyone know if the PowerBomb will bolt up to the OEM sized midpipe from Kientech or will I need the larger diameter midpipe....if so I'll just go with another OEM.

And does the PowerBomb really do much for performance?
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #71737
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
it is a real pia to do it underneath the clutch but I got it done. When all was said and done, it probably would have been quicker and easier to remove the clutch
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:57 PM   #71738
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Anyone know if the PowerBomb will bolt up to the OEM sized midpipe
It does. You just have to use the stock muffler gasket.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:23 PM   #71739
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
Alright, so how about a block of wood through the rear wheel to keep it from turning, then just unbolting the center clutch basket bolt?

I guess that's not too difficult... I just don't want to have to buy a clutch tool I may only use once or twice. I have an old-school torque wrench that will get it back to about 36 ft/lbs, give or take... ten, lol.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #71740
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
My experience, too. I've done 5 DR's and have another scheduled in a week. After the first one, I found it faster and MUCH less frustrating to just pop the clutch off. I bought the tool - any excuse I can get to buy another too is fine with me. Plus, the fellow riders I've done/led through the process learned a little about their bike.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:31 PM   #71741
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
My experience, too. I've done 5 DR's and have another scheduled in a week. After the first one, I found it faster and MUCH less frustrating to just pop the clutch off. I bought the tool - any excuse I can get to buy another too is fine with me. Plus, the fellow riders I've done/led through the process learned a little about their bike.
It just strikes me that a plethora of those tools should be out there, and I'd rather 'rent' one or help someone else pay for theirs than to buy one right now. I'm hoping a board through the rear wheel works since I live in south Florida and we probably have the least number of those clutch tools per capita than most places in the country.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:07 PM   #71742
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 3,113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Alright, so how about a block of wood through the rear wheel to keep it from turning, then just unbolting the center clutch basket bolt?

I guess that's not too difficult... I just don't want to have to buy a clutch tool I may only use once or twice. I have an old-school torque wrench that will get it back to about 36 ft/lbs, give or take... ten, lol.
I use a car tyre lever on edge. Make sure its up snug against a spoke nipple at the rim and its fine. You won't shear anything, or bend a spoke if its there. Some electrical tape and/or zip ties can hold it all in place if you don't have enough hands.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:09 PM   #71743
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I use a car tyre lever on edge. Make sure its up snug against a spoke nipple at the rim and its fine. You won't shear anything, or bend a spoke if its there. Some electrical tape and/or zip ties can hold it all in place if you don't have enough hands.
Thanks Berg, and thanks guys.

I hope to start tearing into it tomorrow if I can find 5x20 bolts locally fast enough.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:59 PM   #71744
TrophyHunter
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I've re-used the stock screws at the owners request. I use a Q-tip and cleaner to swab out the threads, clean the screw, install a star washer (thin - doesn't take much thread grab away) and blue loctite. No issues to date. I don't know what year they started with the allen head screws and those even have a bigger shoulder to grab the star washer with.

Sunthechip - headlight surround looks great! Part of the fun of a DR....making it yours.
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2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

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Old 12-09-2012, 08:14 PM   #71745
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 601
+1 After laying on my back for 2 hours and a dozen trips into my tool box I pulled the clutch in 5 minutes. Used a 2x2 stick of wood in the rear wheel but a rag in the primary gears will hold things also.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
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