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Old 12-09-2012, 05:01 PM   #71731
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
My experience, too. I've done 5 DR's and have another scheduled in a week. After the first one, I found it faster and MUCH less frustrating to just pop the clutch off. I bought the tool - any excuse I can get to buy another too is fine with me. Plus, the fellow riders I've done/led through the process learned a little about their bike.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:31 PM   #71732
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
My experience, too. I've done 5 DR's and have another scheduled in a week. After the first one, I found it faster and MUCH less frustrating to just pop the clutch off. I bought the tool - any excuse I can get to buy another too is fine with me. Plus, the fellow riders I've done/led through the process learned a little about their bike.
It just strikes me that a plethora of those tools should be out there, and I'd rather 'rent' one or help someone else pay for theirs than to buy one right now. I'm hoping a board through the rear wheel works since I live in south Florida and we probably have the least number of those clutch tools per capita than most places in the country.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:07 PM   #71733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Alright, so how about a block of wood through the rear wheel to keep it from turning, then just unbolting the center clutch basket bolt?

I guess that's not too difficult... I just don't want to have to buy a clutch tool I may only use once or twice. I have an old-school torque wrench that will get it back to about 36 ft/lbs, give or take... ten, lol.
I use a car tyre lever on edge. Make sure its up snug against a spoke nipple at the rim and its fine. You won't shear anything, or bend a spoke if its there. Some electrical tape and/or zip ties can hold it all in place if you don't have enough hands.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:09 PM   #71734
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I use a car tyre lever on edge. Make sure its up snug against a spoke nipple at the rim and its fine. You won't shear anything, or bend a spoke if its there. Some electrical tape and/or zip ties can hold it all in place if you don't have enough hands.
Thanks Berg, and thanks guys.

I hope to start tearing into it tomorrow if I can find 5x20 bolts locally fast enough.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:59 PM   #71735
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I've re-used the stock screws at the owners request. I use a Q-tip and cleaner to swab out the threads, clean the screw, install a star washer (thin - doesn't take much thread grab away) and blue loctite. No issues to date. I don't know what year they started with the allen head screws and those even have a bigger shoulder to grab the star washer with.

Sunthechip - headlight surround looks great! Part of the fun of a DR....making it yours.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:14 PM   #71736
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+1 After laying on my back for 2 hours and a dozen trips into my tool box I pulled the clutch in 5 minutes. Used a 2x2 stick of wood in the rear wheel but a rag in the primary gears will hold things also.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:08 PM   #71737
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
I've re-used the stock screws at the owners request. ... and blue loctite. No issues to date.
+1
A little bit of blue locktite is all that is needed to solve the problem.
Drilled screws and safety wire is overkill.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:49 AM   #71738
Magnum Noel
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Garage Door Remote Control

Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:06 AM   #71739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
I just put mine in a zip lock bag.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:37 AM   #71740
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Garage Remote

http://www.f2ptechnologies.com/
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:32 AM   #71741
rogor
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Originally Posted by Tyrepower View Post
I just put mine in a zip lock bag.

+1 on the ziplock bag
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:41 AM   #71742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
Just to change the subject for a minute. Has anyone invented or found a way to waterproof their garage door remote whilst leaving it fixed on the bike? I have mine in my jacket pocket and sort of wobble down the the road stearing with my right hand whilst trying to activate the remote button through the jacket outer with my left hand. There must be a better way?
Never had a problem using this type - it's independent of weather



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Old 12-10-2012, 05:41 AM   #71743
planemanx15
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haha..i was going to post the same video
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:29 AM   #71744
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Agreed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Really! Removing the clutch isn't that big a deal. Nothing to be afraid of! Plus, it's an opportunity to inspect the steel plates for hot spots and the clutch basket fingers for wear. It doesn't take any more time to remove the clutch than it takes to dink around grinding tools and turning little screws 1/12 of a turn at a time. Once you have the clutch cover off it only makes sense to inspect everything you can while you're in there.

No question that you are correct, and if the project were to come up again I would pull off the clutch. I just looked at it once I got that far and said 'I can do this' and so I did. Sometimes it is good practice/therapy to figure out how to get it done 'the hard way' (at least for me, being retired and sometimes having 'too much time' on my hands). Not enough miles on my DR that I was concerned about inspecting the clutch.

Off topic: Just got through putting my set of your SM wheels back on the bike for 'winter' (down in a warm state) use, couldn't help thinking (again) how nice those wheels are. Done again I would probably go with 19/17 rather than the 17/17 but I doubt that I will wear these out. Thanks!


Bruce
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:32 AM   #71745
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Originally Posted by Fire Escape View Post
Off topic: Just got through putting my set of your SM wheels back on the bike for 'winter' (down in a warm state) use, couldn't help thinking (again) how nice those wheels are. Done again I would probably go with 19/17 rather than the 17/17 but I doubt that I will wear these out. Thanks!


Bruce
What kind of rubber did you decide to put on them?
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