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Old 12-09-2012, 11:25 AM   #16
troidus
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The folding wire trick works, but fold a wire only once, and fold only one wire. If you need to take up more space than that, cut 6" of insulated wire of a gauge that two of which will fit into your connector with your other lead(s), strip both ends to fit the connector, and put both ends in the same end of the splice to take up the extra room. After crimping, secure the filler loop to the rest of the harness.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:40 AM   #17
KeithinSC
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I was told long ago not to solder anything subjected to vibration, (auto/aircraft) crimp only.

Anyone else learn it this way?



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Old 12-09-2012, 12:02 PM   #18
troidus
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Originally Posted by KeithinSC View Post
I was told long ago not to solder anything subjected to vibration, (auto/aircraft) crimp only.

Anyone else learn it this way?
Boeing taught me how to solder aircraft wire bundle connectors, so I'm going to say "it depends."
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Boeing taught me how to solder aircraft wire bundle connectors, so I'm going to say "it depends."
Yup.

From a production standpoint, crimped connections are superior - they're quicker to make, easier to inspect, and just as strong. A proper soldered connection is much more labor intensive, for not a lot of benefit.

One place where soldering *is* better is where the crimping operation breaks the tin or silver plate of the joint, exposing copper to the atmosphere. A soldered joint leaves that protective surface intact.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:11 PM   #20
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nothing wrong about using #two- i ALWAYS use 'em along with non insulated crimps ( the "insulated type are the cutise plastic jacked ones) this for work mostly ..as hobby i usually solder. with the longer handles these make the very best connection..simple and cost effective. i wouldn't even consider the ones in pic #1 that being said, they do very well at cutting small screws- right tool for the right job

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Old 12-09-2012, 03:10 PM   #21
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I have the second tool pictured and it is excellent for uninsulated crimp lugs. If you will be doing any crimps with insulated lugs it is well worth buying a quality ratcheting crimper...I finally got one about a year ago and wish I'd done it much sooner, my crimps are much stronger and more reliable now. Ratcheting crimpers also have interchangeable dies for various types of lugs, insulated and non-insulated. The Paladin below is what I bought, was about $60 with one set of dies included...


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Old 12-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #22
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That first crimper you have is junk, the second one is the one to use.

I assume most solderless connectors are copper plated with tin? Tin keeps the copper from oxidizing?

Soldering is not good when there is vibration present?
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
That first crimper you have is junk, the second one is the one to use.

I assume most solderless connectors are copper plated with tin? Tin keeps the copper from oxidizing?

Soldering is not good when there is vibration present?
Soldering is fine where vibration is present, the payload cone of a rocket is about as bad a vibration environment as you'll find anywhere, spacecraft have plenty of soldered connections.
Tin plated copper is the standard material, yes. Some applications are Silver or Nickel plate, but they all serve to protect the copper.
Crimping is easier and faster in a production environment, and takes much less skill overall.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:35 PM   #24
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The trick is to get the wire hot quickly, and apply the solder quickly, so the solder doesn't wick far up the wire. Wire with solder wicked in isn't as flexible as plain wire.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:41 PM   #25
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The trick is to get the wire hot quickly, and apply the solder quickly, so the solder doesn't wick far up the wire. Wire with solder wicked in isn't as flexible as plain wire.
You also want to be able to see the wire strands through the solder, and solder fillets should be no more than 1/2 the wire diameter (1/3 diameter for spacecraft, IMS).
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #26
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You also want to be able to see the wire strands through the solder, and solder fillets should be no more than 1/2 the wire diameter (1/3 diameter for spacecraft, IMS).
Yup.

Anyone can blob on solder. It takes an artist to use *just* enough.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:07 PM   #27
troidus
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And then there's gold embrittlement.

When soldering gold connections, tin the connector, then wick out the solder. That will pull the gold plating off, then you can solder normally.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:47 PM   #28
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281500

One of the best threads on ADV.



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Old 12-10-2012, 01:22 PM   #29
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I would spring for the tool in the 2nd pic. I've got similar for home use It's a Klein J1005? overall length about 10". Has clean solid jaws and enough leverage for clean tight crimps. The one in pic 1 will work if it's all you have to get rolling again but it's pretty much a junk tool. For home use and quality crimps I use the Klein. I've got one of the cheap junk ones I keep in the tool roll for emergency road repairs, better than nothing. I don't care how much shrink tube or electric tape you use...a bad connection is a bad connection.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:27 PM   #30
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There is no better connection than a properly made solder connection.

There is no worse connection than a bad solder connection.

Crimp is used because it is faster, more idiot resistant and using the right connector almost as good.

Rod
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