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Old 12-07-2012, 06:22 AM   #46
gpskevin OP
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Day 11, We have arrived in the Arctic

From Mug Shots

Story by gpsKevin
Ok today we left Eagle Plains headed for Inuvik,
In about 10 miles we crossed the Arctic Circle line, an imaginary line telling us we are way north in the Arctic now.
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Last gas stop was Fort McPherson
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While waiting for the ferry we saw Grizzly Bear tracks in the mud
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Of course it is light 24 hours a day in Inuvik
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We staying at the Arctic Chalet and we have found intranet again, but it is slow.
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Things are a little different up here, the wheels don’t go round
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The dog sled team was noisy and just had puppies
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They were celebrating Canada Day earlier in the day, this little girl had been in the Parade, I think her bike decorated with a Caribou Skin
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Wow cool different world. I wonder what it is like when it is dark all the time?
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Map of the day
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:12 AM   #47
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Day 12 Mud on the Dempster

From Mug Shots

Story by Steve

Today was a big ride day for the group, 410 miles. Inuvik to Tombstone campground, down the Dempster Highway. Missy & I had made a pact after the chase truck came into the picture-we would not give up our ride and drive the chase truck-period. We were both determined to complete this whole journey and not whimp out by driving part of the way in a chase truck-100% was our mission! What a day it was. Leaving Inuvik it was actually fairly nice weather, we rode in heavy dust for first 100 miles. Crossed the McKenzie & Peel Rivers on small ferries. Saw huge bear paw prints in the mud at a ferry crossing.

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Then the rain started and the Dempster turned into a mud bath. Mud so slick the locals call it black grease, potholes that will swallow half a front tire, ruts left by tractor trailers that will pull you around. Road crews up this way use corrosive Calcium Chloride to hold the road together-junk. Sure makes for a intense slimmy ride.

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We saw several cars & other bikers down in the mud. Mud was flying all over the place, I could not keep it off my Arai XD face shield. I wiped my shield off so many times, with my muddy gloves, that it got scratched up so bad I could not see through it. In the raised position I tried my sun glasses-same results. Finally I just rode without eye protection and it actually was a better ride.

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As we rode through the high mountain passes it was comforting to read the avalanche warning signs. At one point I looked at my GPS & it said 110 miles to destination!

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Oh boy! Can't wait, 3-4 more hours of this and I will be putting my tent up in the rain!

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Missy on the Versys got so much mud on the Radiator that it started to overheat, so she drove it into a stream and we splached water to wash the mud and unclog the radiator.

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We arrived at the campground & the camp ranger allowed us to sleep in two community cooking cabins, out of the rain! One had a large wood stove and was super comfortable for us-we scored again. Large wood stove and a good supply of firewood was right up my alley.

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The stove was put to good use for the late evening meal prepared by our chefs. Our cook cabin even had drop down sun shades! Missy, Tracy & I slept like babies in a warm dark cabin. Morning will bring us 34 degrees, clear weather and a major change of route plans-on with the adventure

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Old 12-08-2012, 06:47 AM   #48
findlj
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I'm totally in, great RR. However, I'm totally missing something here. I'm showing the temp in Inuvik to be -26 right now. What's up?
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:14 AM   #49
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Great ride report!
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:32 PM   #50
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I am IN, and enjoying your "RR".. Thanks for sharing !
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:30 PM   #51
grumpybear
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Great report

Really enjoying the ride report. Your ride so far is the same as what I plan on doing next year. Looking forward to reading about the rest of your trip.

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Old 12-08-2012, 05:08 PM   #52
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Really enjoying and wish I will be there some point to have the same adventures!
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:56 AM   #53
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Road a lot of the same roads last summer but only went to the NWT sign. Wind was so bad you could not stay on the road. Will ride it again, fantastic trip keep it coming..
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:27 AM   #54
gpskevin OP
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From Mug Shots

Day 13-Steve.
Just completed day 13. About 3400 miles in to this adventure. We rode into Dawson this morning:
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Having a great time, bike is running great-no real issues. Jeffrey boys KLR is the issue. Few days ago it broke-valve train crashed! Dad towed Jeffrey & bike to Whitehorse (220 miles). Left the bike & rented a truck. They returned to the group & we have been swapping chase drivers. The ride plan has changed. Original route was to go West into Alaska & Chicken. With the broken bike the decision was made to travel South towards Whitehorse.
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We are spend the night in Carmacks about 138 miles from Whitehorse. How what are we to do? Long way from home with a broken bike and an extra rider. Tomorrow night we need to be in Haines Alaska ready to board a ferry 0815 hrs the next morning. A lot of brain storming going on here. One major idea is to sell bike at the Whitehorse dealer & ride Jeffrey double up. Will let you know when we get on the ferry how this all plays out. Tonight we are camped along side the Yukon River, in a fee camp ground.
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All the amenities, shower, wash machines and snack bar. We shopped at the market and teamed up for a camp potluck. Jeffrey was my partner. We cooked up chicken thighs & veggie stir fry. Others had campfire baked taters, corn and pasta-we all ate great.
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Right now we have a big campfire going with about 8 other campers over enjoying it with us. It's after 10pm and appears be be about 5pm. It's up early and on to Whitehorse to see what happens-stay tuned.
From Arctic Wolf Day13
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #55
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Great Ride Report guys...and girl!! I guess that's the one event that can change a ride and you've experienced it, but you made do and continued on. Sounds like a good idea with trying to sell the KLR...waiting to see what you guys did. Even though the trip has been over for a bit, I bet your having a blast reliving it through your report! Thanks for sharing!
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:32 PM   #56
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I noticed everybody is wearing KLIM gear, Which model and how did it hold up to the Rain ?
Great RR and looks like your making Great memories !!
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:06 PM   #57
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Cool... I can see my tent in the back of one of those pics (wife and I were paddling 500 miles on the river).

Thanks again for inviting us to dinner that evening.... Small world sometimes. Btw, I'm still in touch with the bicyclists from Vancouver... Gathering info for our Canol trek. One of them is biologist and has done extensive research up off the Canol in the NWT. Current plan is to meet him in Whitehorse next summer before we depart.

Kevin, Jeffery, Missey, et.al., we just picked up a Dakar for my son (he just turned 17).. Next time my son goes with me up that way, it will be on the bikes. I think he is a bit burnt out on all the treks we've done up there. He knows the territory nearly as well as me. One more trip north together and then we turn our attention to South America after he graduates.

It was awesome to meet all of you.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:25 PM   #58
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Geat ride report; can not wait for the next installment!

If I can ask, what tires is Missy running on the Versys? Front looks larger than stock. Did the fender need to be raised?
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:32 AM   #59
gpskevin OP
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Ride Dates

Many of the readers know that right now in the Arctic it is winter time, meaning full on dark and cold.



Some readers have been asking what were the date of our ride.

We began our ride on 6/23/2012 and finished, well, you will have to keep reading and see what happens to the rest of the story. Keep cheering us on that great! Thanks

We are just now telling our story because it is impossible to get internet connection in most parts of the Arctic.

So enjoy our adventure
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:43 AM   #60
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Day 13, contunued

From Mug Shots


Day 13 update from Jeff

Day 13 started after a good night sleep inside our tents, inside a warming hut tent in Tombstone campground. We earned a good night sleep after traveling down the Dempster Highway the previous day. It was a workout with all the rain and mud. Some of our group was sleeping in another warming hut that had a wood burning stove. A nice fire and tables to make coffee and cook breakfast on was a real treat to start the day.

The days ride started in very cool weather with the sun overhead starting to warm the surroundings. The road conditions were much better with hardly any major mud to deal with. As we reached the end of the Dempster Highway we arrived at a gas station/ market with a coin operated car wash. We fueled the bikes and began to try and loose some major mud off the bikes with the car wash. Spent some major Loonies and Toonies (Canadian Coin) getting our bikes clean. The mud had done a major number on our rear brake pads. The rear pads were almost gone. If I ever do that road again, carrying a spare pair of rear brake pads would be a necessity to carry.

From Arctic Wolf Day12


We rode into Dawson City to see some sights, resupply and get a bite to eat. After doing some sight seeing we started our ride down to Carmacks to set up camp and spend the night. The scenery was spectacular as we made our way. We were warned by folks at gas stops to be very careful because other bikers had crashed on the very road we were traveling. Patches of gravel caused others to fall before us and get defaced out of the area. We traveled the road without any mishaps or issues.

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We arrived in Carmacks mid afternoon. Went to town for fuel and did some shopping for our cook off potluck event we planned for the evening. The plan was to cook in teams and have a feast while sharing food with each other. After arriving at the campsite right on the river we were had a pleasant surprise; Jeffrey who had driven the chase truck that day had set up our tents after arriving before us. We had a shower, great meal, visited with a couple that was on a 7 day canoe trip, also met 4 guys riding bicycles that sat and enjoyed our campfire and we shared some of our food with them.

After a great day that ended with wonderful food, drink and company we settled into our tents while listening to the roar of the river we were camping next to. We even lucked out by now having major mosquito issue to deal with for a nice change. What a great day and even a better night's sleep.
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