Steering Towards Stupid - Stop Me! R80gspd

[H96669]

Originally Posted by Big Bamboo

+1 Also, if you grind the business end of that 36mm socket flat, it will be much less likely to slip off and mar something else in the process.

Oh yes!.....HAD to do that on other BMW applications. That's one of the sockets needed to replace the input seal in paralever rear drives.That big nut is pretty thin also and the socket has to be ground. Also if you want to remove fork caps on the later Telelevers, same socket. Very handy....!

Easy to find anyway, that's an automotive "Axle nut socket".

[craydds]

Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale

So for me, headstocks are adjusted by feel.

Sutherngintelmen, make sure you understand that Paul is talking about the bearing adjuster nut (steering stem adjuster nut under the top plate), the one you adjust with the spanner wrench. Yes, this is adjusted by "feel", and road testing, too. There are articles written on this adjustment. But, the top cap nut, the one you just removed, is to be torqued down tight. Paul may torque it down tightly by feel, but this "merrycan" does use a torque wrench.

[DiabloADV]

Originally Posted by Paul_Rochdale

..., headstocks are adjusted by feel.

This is correct. Always has been.

[hardwaregrrl]

Oh man! That pic totally looks like something I would do......without asking. I think I've got an extra tool kit wrench if you need to carry one with you. I don't use them anymore with the KTM front end.

[jackd]

[QUOTE=Paul_Rochdale;20205888
About twenty years ago I was a student on a Police Motorcycle Course and the bike I was given to ride suffered from wheel wobble. I reported this at the time but was told to 'take it or leave it'. Our bikes were BMW R80s. Next day we were in a group, on the motorway, running at 100mph. I knew the front would start to shake as I got to the wash from the front of the drivers cab, only this time it was more severe than before. The front began to wobble and nothing I did would stop them. The handlebars crashed from lock to lock and I was flung off the bike and tumbled down the motorway. Well the bike was examined by the Police Accident Investigateor and found to ey unroadworthy. The bearings in the headstock were found to be dry and RUSTY, and either too tight or too loose (I can't remember which).

If you knew that the bike suffered from a severe wobble, why would you make the choice to run it at 100 mph the next day? Ouch.

I took the wheel off my GS several years ago to replace the tire, soon after I purchased the bike. I had heard that a GS had a tendency to go into a wobble from what I had been reading here on the forum if rear loaded and if the steering head was incorrectly adjusted. It had seemed to be quite serviceable during previous inspections, but with the removal of the weight of the front wheel, a stiffness became evident. I took it apart and found dry bearings. With everything inspected and greased, I threw it back together and adjusted it by feel - no torque wrench involved. Five years of service and never a hint of a wobble - though there wasn't one either before I did the work. I'll give it another look pretty soon.

[mark1305]

+1 on the 36mm six sided socket. AND an impact wrench.

I used to torque the cap nut to specs. Then I read on here somewhere more than once about using impact wrenches that approximated the appropriate torque to tighten the cap nut. I happen to have one impact wrench that fits the bill with both a "soft" setting and a "not terribly more powerful" setting. (I have others that are a little too powerful for tightening but great for loosening).

The plus side of using the suitable impact wrench to tighten the cap nut is that I avoid the risk of tweaking the fork tubes out of parallelism by holding them while tightening the cap nut. Very little leverage required to hold the triple trees when using the impact tool.

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by craydds

Sutherngintelmen, make sure you understand that Paul is talking about the bearing adjuster nut (steering stem adjuster nut under the top plate), the one you adjust with the spanner wrench. Yes, this is adjusted by "feel", and road testing, too. There are articles written on this adjustment. But, the top cap nut, the one you just removed, is to be torqued down tight. Paul may torque it down tightly by feel, but this "merrycan" does use a torque wrench.

Yes - I'm with you on torquing cap nut but bearing nut is adjusted by feel - thank you for double checking.

I couldn't torque with my crescent wrench so set bicep on pretty friggin tight and buttoned it up. I'll pop the bars off again when I get my gianormous 36mm hex - practice makes perfect.

I am starting to think I should go ahead and drop the forks. My omega 450 is on back order but Rick is saying soon. Schedule being what it is probably be early Jan before I get to tinker again - we'll see. That'll let me take a look at the bearings, replace the boots and lots of working room for new wattage.

I've started reading on forks and some folks report this as pita. I'm sure I'll have a few moments - fun stuff

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl

Oh man! That pic totally looks like something I would do......without asking. I think I've got an extra tool kit wrench if you need to carry one with you. I don't use them anymore with the KTM front end.

Use what you got!

You like your KTM front end? Worth the bucks and time? I'm not sure where this bike will take me but a po did Wilbers rear and progressive springs in front - suspension changes not on my short list right now. Might take you up on wrench offer. Using the drift to tap it around worked ok but more tools!! Maybe a trade or fair market value?

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by jackd

and never a hint of a wobble

What's popular thinking on running a stabilizer on these R80's

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by mark1305

+1 on the 36mm six sided socket. AND an impact wrench.

I need a bigger compressor - more tools!!

[hardwaregrrl]

Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen

Use what you got!

You like your KTM front end? Worth the bucks and time? I'm not sure where this bike will take me but a po did Wilbers rear and progressive springs in front - suspension changes not on my short list right now. Might take you up on wrench offer. Using the drift to tap it around worked ok but more tools!! Maybe a trade or fair market value?

Na....show up at one of our gatherings and it's yours. We gotta stick together!

I do like the front end, and it has been worth it! I abuse the crap out of the bike, and the stock forks complained on several occasions.

[Sutherngintelmen]

Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl

Na....show up at one of our gatherings and it's yours. We gotta stick together!

I do like the front end, and it has been worth it! I abuse the crap out of the bike, and the stock forks complained on several occasions.

Cheers!

[AntonLargiader]

Originally Posted by DiabloADV

This is correct. Always has been.

In the old days, maybe. BMWs from the '90s onward have torque specs for the adjustment. They work pretty well; from what I've seen most DIYers adjust the bearings too loose when they go by feel.

[jackd]

Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen

What's popular thinking on running a stabilizer on these R80's

I've never considered putting on a stabilizer. The bike doesn't need it if properly maintained. As for the rear loading side of the equation, I refuse to install a top box of any sort but stick with the standard BMW side cases. I will put my tent/sleeping bag over the top rack but that's about it. I like the thought of a clear exit path behind me in the event that I have to lay 'er down...

[Beemerguru]

Haven't seen anyone talk about relieving the pressure on the upper triple by also loosening the clamping bolts on the fork tubes so everything moves in parallel when you torque the head bearing...then tighten the fork tube bolts. Makes for a more precise adjustment