ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > GSpot > Parallel Universe
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-09-2012, 12:24 PM   #31
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,206
I am now running 15W-45 and engine is overall quieter, and the start-up cam chain rattle is much briefer and less "enthusiastic"

I wish I had been running it since day #1 ....
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2012, 12:42 PM   #32
Steveman OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Steveman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post

I wish I had been running it since day #1 ....
me too, but there's the warranty and my dealer did not want to use anything other than 10/40
Steveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2012, 01:05 PM   #33
ebrabaek
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Grand Valley, Colorado
Oddometer: 4,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveman View Post
Thanks for reporting!
I am not surprised, made same experience with a few other bikes
Yeppers..... The shifting got a bit better as well. It simply is like the motor is functioning better overall.
__________________


Erling
ebrabaek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2012, 05:22 PM   #34
MikeMike
Beastly Adventurer
 
MikeMike's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Oddometer: 4,150
Been running 20w-50 since the 600 mile service 27,000 miles ago.
MikeMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2012, 09:12 AM   #35
Steveman OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Steveman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Yeppers..... The shifting got a bit better as well. It simply is like the motor is functioning better overall.
Am convinced it is better running. I sure go for the 50-oil soon, just because I know it helps. And you confirmed too so why should I hesitate to give it a try.
On my 1000cc fazer it was a mess, the engine was very loud and the clucth baskets noise's were intimidating. I then tried 10/60 and even when hot the noise level was 80% better, shifting was slick. So I guess its always worth a try
Steveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 05:25 PM   #36
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveman View Post
me too, but there's the warranty and my dealer did not want to use anything other than 10/40
Steve:
Show your dealer this:

http://www.bmw-motorrad.dk/se/sv/services/media/PI_OlL_BMW_MC_2012_MD.pdf
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 07:46 PM   #37
MikeMike
Beastly Adventurer
 
MikeMike's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Oddometer: 4,150
Missives from Spandau telling me about an oil my dealer cant get.

Well, at least Joel is back and imparting wisdom

I still want to park beside an F700 new model and compare the distance of the headers from the rightside engine case. I am sure there is a difference from the F658
MikeMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 07:50 PM   #38
JRWooden
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: The great state of confusion
Oddometer: 4,206
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post

I still want to park beside an F700 new model and compare the distance of the headers from the rightside engine case. I am sure there is a difference from the F658
I don't see how it could "hurt" for us to put some kind of heat shield (either radiant or wrap) around the pipe where it is closest to the engine case. It would help general cooling and perhaps stator life ... I gotta look at that again.........
JRWooden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 08:24 PM   #39
Ike Baker
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Ike Baker's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: DC/WV/ND
Oddometer: 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveman View Post
Good explanation. I am still absolutely sure that the noise comes from the clutch basket and not from the timing chain.
I had unusual clutch basket noise in my 2009 800GS (rhythmic ticking, louder and more metallic than the usual plate rattling) in November/December. I could feel it through the clutch cable if I lightly rested my fingers on the lever. It would change frequency slightly when I pulled the lever in, but would not go away either coasting or at idle.

I took it in, and they said a bolt on the basket had backed out. It was nicking the clutch case (my words, probably not theirs). They also said there was a new/different bolt that had just come out to address this issue (which implies they are seeing this happen in the field), and my shop had to wait a couple weeks to get the new bolt. They fixed it up, but due to weather and schedule, I haven't gotten back to pick it up yet.

I'm not saying that's what you are experiencing, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Ike Baker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 08:27 PM   #40
1P8RIOT
Gnarly Adventurer
 
1P8RIOT's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Carson CA. and Whitesboro, TX.
Oddometer: 377
I put header wrap on my pipes after the alt. fried. After researching a bit I figured it couldn't hurt. It took about an hour and was about $50 for the wrap and metal zip ties. After I wash the bike or ride in the rain, I let it run for a few min. to help prevent rust.
__________________
A ship in a port is safe but that is not what ships are built for. - Mom

'09 F800GS YEAH BABY!!!
1P8RIOT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #41
sorebutt
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Lewiston,ID
Oddometer: 1,764
I wrapped the headers on my ST1300 to reduce heat and it worked very well. The only problem is it turned my pipes blue. The headers put out steam for a while after I wash it.
sorebutt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 10:52 PM   #42
Steveman OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Steveman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike Baker View Post
I had unusual clutch basket noise in my 2009 800GS (rhythmic ticking, louder and more metallic than the usual plate rattling) in November/December. I could feel it through the clutch cable if I lightly rested my fingers on the lever. It would change frequency slightly when I pulled the lever in, but would not go away either coasting or at idle.

I took it in, and they said a bolt on the basket had backed out. It was nicking the clutch case (my words, probably not theirs). They also said there was a new/different bolt that had just come out to address this issue (which implies they are seeing this happen in the field), and my shop had to wait a couple weeks to get the new bolt. They fixed it up, but due to weather and schedule, I haven't gotten back to pick it up yet.

I'm not saying that's what you are experiencing, but thought I'd throw it out there.
Thanks for the hint. I will have the bike at the dealer end of next month and will discuss it with them. I have to say that I have the noise only when the bike is boiling hot...

Thx again,
Steve
Steveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2013, 12:35 AM   #43
JoelWisman
Beastly Adventurer
 
JoelWisman's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Location: STL, MO, USA
Oddometer: 1,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steveman View Post
Thanks for the hint. I will have the bike at the dealer end of next month and will discuss it with them. I have to say that I have the noise only when the bike is boiling hot...

Thx again,
Steve
A semi rhythmic clacking noise when the bike is idling or at low RPM and boiling hot is usually a stretched timing chain which thicker oil will quiet but not keep the chain from derailing, jumping or breaking and is urgent as the engine explodes when this happens.

The problem is super easy to diagnose with just a couple of wrenches and one small gasket.

This is a known issue though maybe not to all dealers and I was the first tech to diagnose and put forth the cause of such problem, at least in the USA.

I have moved on to Aprilia, Piaggio, Vespa, Moto Guzzi. but haven't forgotten my BMW skills. If your dealer wants to know how to rule the chain in or out AND speaks english, you can PM me and I'll give you my number.
__________________
Owned to date. Honda Aero 50, Honda Elite 80, Honda Elite 250x2, Suzuki Katana, Suzuki RF600, Yamaha YZF1000R, Kymco Xciting 500, Suzuki GS500, Suzuki Burgman 650, BMW F800GSx2, BMW S1000RR, Aprilia Scarabeo 200, Aprilia Caponord, Aprilia Sportcity 250
I love and miss you Jeneca and I'm sorry.
JoelWisman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2013, 05:19 AM   #44
Steveman OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Steveman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Steve:
Show your dealer this:
Thank you, thats cool. I will show them....

Steve
Steveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2013, 05:35 AM   #45
Steveman OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Steveman's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Austria
Oddometer: 471
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
A semi rhythmic clacking noise when the bike is idling or at low RPM and boiling hot is usually a stretched timing chain which thicker oil will quiet but not keep the chain from derailing, jumping or breaking and is urgent as the engine explodes when this happens.

The problem is super easy to diagnose with just a couple of wrenches and one small gasket.

This is a known issue though maybe not to all dealers and I was the first tech to diagnose and put forth the cause of such problem, at least in the USA.

I have moved on to Aprilia, Piaggio, Vespa, Moto Guzzi. but haven't forgotten my BMW skills. If your dealer wants to know how to rule the chain in or out AND speaks english, you can PM me and I'll give you my number.
Thx Joel,
well, being a mechanic myself since few decades I am sure that the noise is not coming from the timing chain. But I will check again as soon as the white pest (snow) has gone and temperatures will go up a bit. In the meantime I spoke to a guy having same bike and his has less miles. He said that he has the noise too and it appears when the oil is hot and the fan starts. He reported that the moment the fan kicks in the RPM drops a little and the rattling starts and gets better as soon as the fan stops. For me this sounds logical but I admit that I did not check as I turned my engine off and gave it time to cool down.

My dealer is the biggest in the county so I assume they know how to do it. Well, as long as the bike is under waranty I am not afraid and I made sure that on all service invoices my report about the knocking was written down.

Thanks for your offer, most appreciated s up:

Steve
Steveman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014