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Old 12-10-2012, 09:03 AM   #31
hardwaregrrl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
Haven't seen anyone talk about relieving the pressure on the upper triple by also loosening the clamping bolts on the fork tubes so everything moves in parallel when you torque the head bearing...then tighten the fork tube bolts. Makes for a more precise adjustment
+1 or that top clamp will have a smirk.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
In the old days, maybe. BMWs from the '90s onward have torque specs for the adjustment. They work pretty well; from what I've seen most DIYers adjust the bearings too loose when they go by feel.
If anything I think mine could be more loose than they are now - based on the description in service manual of falling gently to the right when unweighted. Bike is an 84.

When I got the bike steering seemed perfect. Maybe 3 seconds from center to right. I've turned the bearing adjuster nut one full turn lefty Lucy - with drift and soft blows. I can probably count to 10 it drops so slowly to the right now. Not sure how the PO rode the bike, maybe my trails are taking a toll?

Makes me think that I need to see more innards. Grease & bearings - perhaps I've bent up something - don't think that's the case but level of abuse is new ground for me. Seems strange that bearing adjuster nut would get so tight given that cap nut was a beast to loosen.

Lack of experience doing the talking.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jackd View Post
I've never considered putting on a stabilizer. The bike doesn't need it if properly maintained. As for the rear loading side of the equation, I refuse to install a top box of any sort but stick with the standard BMW side cases. I will put my tent/sleeping bag over the top rack but that's about it. I like the thought of a clear exit path behind me in the event that I have to lay 'er down...
My set up is soft luggage with very small waterproof and powered top box, no tank bag. The bike came with BMW side cases but not expecting they'll see much action. I mostly travel light except when I don't

I'm not actively shopping for stabilizer but have found them pleasant additions on some bikes - perhaps somewhat safer as seems to reduce odds of bitch slap even if maintenance is off schedule a bit. Might help on days like Sandblast too (I have airhead rallye wants if not skillz. )

We'll see what happens / where this beautiful beast takes me and how I treat her, we're just getting to know each other at this point.
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

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Old 12-10-2012, 08:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerguru View Post
Haven't seen anyone talk about relieving the pressure on the upper triple by also loosening the clamping bolts on the fork tubes so everything moves in parallel when you torque the head bearing...then tighten the fork tube bolts. Makes for a more precise adjustment
Thanks for that, should have 36mm socket - will append torquing to include that.
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

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Old 12-16-2012, 02:37 PM   #35
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New tool came this week - much better than crescent wrench. I took the bars back off, then loosen cap, further loosened head net then torqued to 120nm. I'm concerned though, doesn't seem right.



Look how much space.



Press play - this can't be as designed.



And here is the gentle drop to the right

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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

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Sutherngintelmen screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 02:57 PM
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:50 PM   #36
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NO CRESENT WRENCHES.

Buy some tools. A man can be defined by his tools. You can never have too many tools.
The deal I have with my wife is ANY home project {over a few hundred dollars} and I get to buy one tool, sometimes more. That keeps me moving forward on my tool ownership and makes each job that much easier and me looking forward to that next project....happy wife, happy life....more tools=happy daddy
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:55 PM   #37
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#7 should be used to take up the play by pressing on the top of #8 (the crhrome retainer).

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:04 PM   #38
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Makes sense.

I'm loosening 7 because steering is so tight - right? Seven also does the job of setting pressure for head bearings. Seems like it's looser than it should be but steering has much greater resistance than it did when I first bought the bike. That's driving me to believe I've got dry or damaged bearings and need to drop the forks.
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

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Old 12-16-2012, 03:06 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
NO CRESENT WRENCHES.
I do have SOME tools. Just nothing as big as 36mm. The crescent is a travel wrench.

You would have gotten a big smile to see us adjust chain tension on a Duc with a pipe wrench.
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:39 PM   #40
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Here's the place to buy the tool for taking out the steering head bearings, but I bet an ADVR in ATL has one to loan

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:12 PM   #41
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How is that THE place?

Cycleworks created these tools: www.cycleworks.net
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #42
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My local NAPA has a bin of loose sockets on sale at 70% off. I picked up a metric 1/2" 36mm socket for about $5.

Your NAPA or other auto supply might have something similar from time to time.

FWIW.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:01 AM   #43
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Picking up on what Beemerguru said, is it possible your fork tubes are too high in the lower clamps? That could explain all the space you seem to have in there. There's a measurement for how far out of the lower clamp the tubes should extend; anyone have that on hand?

Edit: tubes should protrude 161mm over lower fork bridge

R12Battletub screwed with this post 12-17-2012 at 04:08 AM Reason: found some info
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #44
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Let's see, where was I Oh yeah, buying parts and tools! Yep, distracted by a few things including what seems to have been a successful install of Omega 450 thanks to you guys for the good advice.

Now it's back to the front end. I've noticed a direct correlation between steering tightness and temperature. Steering gets stiff and slow when it's cold - like its owner, well maybe not always stiff. I can understand grease thickening somewhat but this seems excessive and now I've committed to parts (plus I need fresh fork boots anyway.)

I've read a few threads as well as repair manual.

High level steps are:
  1. Remove tank
  2. Remove hand controls & handle bars
  3. Remove head lamp assembly
  4. Remove front wheel and fender
  5. Drop forks and drain oil
  6. R&R bearings
  7. R&R boots
  8. Reverse to re-install

I've got new bearings, top cap, boots, and fork oil.

On order from Cycle Works and hopefully here by Friday:

1 x TRIPLE TREE SEAL RING
1 x STEERING HEAD BEARING PULLER SET - 1970-1995 AIRHEADS

The po had progressive springs installed a couple of years ago so I'm not looking to do a full fork rebuild.

A couple of questions come to mind already - oil volume for refill is based on oem spring displacement. Is my best method to measure fluid drained and replace with equal volume?

I understand the top caps can be a bit fiddly - tricks?

Advice for first timers?

Here's the Omega 450 - done!



Boot split



Most of the parts I need



One of you guys had a slow down with the o-ring on bottom, not planning to touch this. (it's not your drink, photo focus fukus)



Get ready for some stupid questions this weekend - and thanks for you help
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:48 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R12Battletub View Post
Picking up on what Beemerguru said, is it possible your fork tubes are too high in the lower clamps? That could explain all the space you seem to have in there. There's a measurement for how far out of the lower clamp the tubes should extend; anyone have that on hand?

Edit: tubes should protrude 161mm over lower fork bridge
Hey,

Thanks for that lead - did check tube protrusion and confirmed at 161mm
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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