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Old 12-04-2012, 10:40 AM   #61
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Stock exhaust dimensions:

Inlet: ID = 1.4"; OD = 1.51"

Outlet: ID = 1.135"; OD = 1.265"

If they removed the stock inner tube (the one that sticks out about 1/4"), when gutted, that will leave a hole; ID about 1.386"

FMF Model #S9000 Approved Spark Arrestor (thanks to mx_rob)(also available at Dennis Kirk, I think), is 1.650" OD and 3.38" long

For reference the GSXR muffler x40F0x outlet; ID is 1.680"

GSXR install (again thanks to mx-rob):
https://docs.google.com/present/view...c203OWhm&hl=en
I'm a little confused with the exhaust dimensions. The end of the header where the stock muffler attaches is 1.135 ID and 1.265 OD? Im looking to build my own cheapo midpipe, and the pipe coming off the Hayabusa muffler is huge, i think over 2".
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:26 AM   #62
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:36 AM   #63
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I'm a little confused with the exhaust dimensions. The end of the header where the stock muffler attaches is 1.135 ID and 1.265 OD? Im looking to build my own cheapo midpipe, and the pipe coming off the Hayabusa muffler is huge, i think over 2".
Those numbers are for the stock muffler

Stock Mufler Inlet:
I.D. = 1.4"
O.D. = 1.51"

Stock Muffler Outlet:
I.D. = 1.135"
O.D. = 1.265"

Years ago I made a midpipe for the DR using 1-1/2" O.D. exhaust tube. It slid inside the stock exhaust pipe with the stock gasket (by your ankle). It was a proper slip fit.

The midpipe from Kientec is 2" O.D. (on the bike now). At the front (ankle), since it uses the stock gasket, I think it is also 1-1/2" O.D. into the stock exhaust pipe.

So I'm guessing that you need to get from 1-1/2" O.D. at the front (exhaust pipe connection), to 2" O.D. to match the Hayabusa inlet. The second pipe in the photo.

Goin' ridin' Be back later to answer any more questions.

From Kientec: (wowie, big pic )

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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:15 PM   #64
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Those numbers are for the stock muffler

Stock Mufler Inlet:
I.D. = 1.4"
O.D. = 1.51"

Stock Muffler Outlet:
I.D. = 1.135"
O.D. = 1.265"

Years ago I made a midpipe for the DR using 1-1/2" O.D. exhaust tube. It slid inside the stock exhaust pipe with the stock gasket (by your ankle). It was a proper slip fit.

The midpipe from Kientec is 2" O.D. (on the bike now). At the front (ankle), since it uses the stock gasket, I think it is also 1-1/2" O.D. into the stock exhaust pipe.

So I'm guessing that you need to get from 1-1/2" O.D. at the front (exhaust pipe connection), to 2" O.D. to match the Hayabusa inlet. The second pipe in the photo.

Goin' ridin' Be back later to answer any more questions.

From Kientec: (wowie, big pic )
Thank you so much! That just explained everything for me. I'm going to try and do this Thursday or Friday. I'll report back on this thread when complete.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:04 PM   #65
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:23 AM   #66
planemanx15
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custom mid pipe for 24F0A

Since I'm a cheap bastard, I decided to build my own mid pipe. Nothing against Jesse's, I'm sure his is 1000000x better than mine in every respect, but as a post college student waiting my government job to start, $220 spent on a pipe isn't too wise.

Off to Auto Zone I went, and bought a bunch of exhaust pipe adapters and some flexible exhaust tube. Luckily the muffler I bought off eBay came with its mid pipe. The Hayabusa can's pipe measured 2-3\8" so I had to make the 1.5" header get into that. I took my time and measured everything out, working from the muffler back to the header. I cut the Hayabusa mid pipe back to its original bend so that gave me more room to work with. I was able to use the adapters to get the larger pipe down to the 1-3\4" flexible pipe, and once I reached the header, I ran into an issue. I could not flex the pipe enough to fit on the header, without rubbing the brake line holder on the swing-arm.

I thought about using the stock muffler pipe, since its bent already for the swing-arm and has the bracket to mount it to the frame installed. After a lot of measuring and praying, I took the saw out and cut that part of the pipe off. If I screwed up, its a $220 mistake. After that, one more trip this time to advanced auto (must better selection IMO, should have went there first) solved all my problems. I fitted everything one more time, and built a bracket to hold the muffler back a little. Then off to the basement (where is it much hotter than the garage) to glue everything.. Yes I said glue. I don't know how to weld, yet. I'm waiting for harbor freight to discount their welders, then I'm going to teach myself with YouTube . I used quick steel high temp putty, good to 500*F. I figure if the cylinder head only sees about 400*F on a hot day in traffic (as per online readings from the vapor) I should be in the clear.

After all the glue dried, I mounted up the custom exhaust system and realized that I need a new exhaust gasket since I torn mine apart messing with all the other pipes. Hopefully that gets here tomorrow, as procycle is friggin' awesome and shipped it on only 30 mins after the order was placed .

Currently it sounds pretty good, you can hear and feel the exhaust where the header meets the mid pipe, but once that is sealed, it will all be fine. My bike sounds deeper and thumps deep (if that makes sense) right now, but I won't know the exact sound till after the gasket is in place.

If you were able to keep up during all that text, I congratulation you... here are the pics:

About how much I cut off the pipe of the old muffler:



The stock Hayabusa mid pipe:



Header to mid pipe joint:



Back near the muffler, flexible pipe joining the original Hayabusa mid pipe:



Bracket to hold the muffler, I used the rubber from the stock muffler and squished it against the frame, and hard mounted the muffler to the bracket... I think I'm going to have to work on this still, as the muffler moves when pushed:



Finished product, yes the bike was running:



All set and done, I paid $25 in pipe fittings, glue, and the flexible pipe. The muffler on ebay was $16 + $20 shipping = $36. The gasket from Procycle was $25 after shipping and handling. That's a grand total of $86 and only $50 for the mid pipe and gasket. Total time was around 3 hours. I also got a 17 tooth sprocket at procycle, to see how that feels with the slightly smaller new rear tire.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:57 AM   #67
planemanx15
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Update... Got the new gasket in place and the bike sounds mint! It's got a deeper growl at idle and when throttling it has a much more noticable thump. I'm impressed. It also pushes a lot more air, from 7 feet back with the choke on at start up, I could feel it.

Now I have to adjust the carb because at 60mph-ish on the highway, going to full throttle bogs the engine.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:33 PM   #68
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Okay. As I mentioned a few posts up I scored a 35F0x can and after a brief “Hinkle or 2-Bros” debate, I soon ordered the 2-brothers mid-pipe from Jesse.

The can was covered with dust and had a few grease spots from being handled but it cleaned up nicely.




The mid-pipe and KienTech attachment kit arrived and all of the stuff lay around in my garage for a week before I managed to carve out a couple of hours to do the install. The install kit includes a bracket for the rear attachment, a muffler/flange gasket, and the necessary nuts, bolts, and washers.



It is not a complicated project. The first order of business is to remove the right side-cover. And unlike most other DR650 chores it is not necessary to remove the seat to do this project.

Removing the side cover exposes a small steel cover that protects the sleeve joint where the mid pipe inserts into the header. I think it may also act as a heat deflector in case of minute gas leakage.

Two hex type screws attach the small metal cover. The screws were installed from the factory with red Loctite. Be prepared to use a good quality, tight fitting hex wrench as to not strip the heads.

Once that cover is removed the two bolts – one securing the mid-pipe and another securing the muffler clamp are readily accessible. After removing the mid-pipe bolt and loosening the muffler clamp, removing the stock pipe was a matter of unbolting it at the several places and then wriggling it out.

Installation of the mid-pipe and can is then 3 parts science and 1 part art. The artsy component is to get it all assembled in place and then tighten everything after the parts are positioned properly.

Insert the mid-pipe and thread the retainer bolt but do not tighten.





The machined brace that Jesse supplies with his kit is a trick piece of work and will mate up to the frame only one way. He includes photo instructions for the bolt locations.



The supplied gasket fits inside the recess of the can.



After a bit of experimentation I discovered one should first insert the mid-pipe, and then mount the brace at the rear attachment points, the can at the flange, and finally connect the can to the brace. Again, keep everything loose to allow some adjustment and wriggle room as it comes together.





Making sure the gasket is seated inside the muffler recess so it does not get pinched, tighten the nuts at the flange, then tighten the mid-pipe retainer bolt and clamp, and finally the rear brace bolts. Reinstall the side cover and you’re done.





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basketcase screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 07:53 AM Reason: grammer, speelin', and clarity
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:47 PM   #69
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Just snagged a 01 gsxr can with mid pipe for $45 on flea bay! Has any one cut down a 03-04 can so its not sticking way out there. Heres a write-up. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201450
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:59 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I'm a little confused with the exhaust dimensions. The end of the header where the stock muffler attaches is 1.135 ID and 1.265 OD? Im looking to build my own cheapo midpipe, and the pipe coming off the Hayabusa muffler is huge, i think over 2".
Hayabusa muffler is cheap till you buy the 220.00 mid pipe,the FMF is actually built for the bike.
FMF just seems like less hassle as long as a person can repack it at some point. Im not too sure about having a GSXR muffler sticking way the heck out the back of the bike,what happens if the bike falls down?

I just run the stock muffler and dont worry about it.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Hayabusa muffler is cheap till you buy the 220.00 mid pipe,the FMF is actually built for the bike.
FMF just seems like less hassle as long as a person can repack it at some point. Im not too sure about having a GSXR muffler sticking way the heck out the back of the bike,what happens if the bike falls down?

I just run the stock muffler and dont worry about it.
The GSXR pipe sticks out as far as the stocker.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:19 PM   #72
Cobain
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I just got my header weld ground down with a file, will it rust if i polish it up down to metal?
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:13 PM   #73
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I just got my header weld ground down with a file, will it rust if i polish it up down to metal?
Nope.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:10 PM   #74
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Whats your opinion on header wrap?
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:09 PM   #75
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Hayabusa muffler is cheap till you buy the 220.00 mid pipe,the FMF is actually built for the bike.
FMF just seems like less hassle as long as a person can repack it at some point. Im not too sure about having a GSXR muffler sticking way the heck out the back of the bike,what happens if the bike falls down?

I just run the stock muffler and dont worry about it.
I installed it and pushed it back 2 inches. It doesn't stick out much if at all.
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