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Old 12-21-2012, 07:27 AM   #46
bk brkr baker
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I went to the RaceTech site and checked on springs. I guessed at your all up weight and put 310. At that weight they recomended their heaviest springs front and rear. Springs at either end are $114. Hope that doesn't blow your budget, you will be better off with the springs.
Other sourses are Cogent dynamics and Ricor and Progressive Suspension. Google away.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:11 AM   #47
globalklr650 OP
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Wow BK,

That doesn't sound too bad. It would save me a lot of work doing now than letting it break. We have not bottomed out yet so my major concern is to get more travel and to raise the bike (because the bike hits on speed bumps). I don't want the spring too much stiffer because i am afraid it will over stress the bike. My bags are overloaded too and i don't want them to fall off with the rougher ride.

Someone told me too that if you use the stock shock with a really stiff spring the damping might not work right.

But I am really looking into this. The price is not bad i just didn't want to get a new rear shock for $500. $250 for the front and back is worth it to me.

Now i just have to find out how to do the work. Is this something i can do myself?
Do i need a spring compression tool or any other special tools.

Its great that you had a look for me that really helps me out. Thanks alot.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:49 AM   #48
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Yes, you need a spring compressor.

Great report.I am really looking forward to more.
The frugal lifestyle and details really make the report interesting.Keep it up.Riders like yourselves are motivational.
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:53 AM   #49
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You probably havent bottomed out because you are already at the bottom. That shock is rated for ~180 pounds. You probably have 180 pounds worth of gear, plus you and your G/F wright.

Ride up to Happy-trail or see if Mike will help get you something set up.

You NEED suspension. I would not do the spring without the proper shock. You will be create a po-go stick effect with a heavy spring (which you need) and a stock shock. .

beergut screwed with this post 12-21-2012 at 10:35 AM
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:02 PM   #50
globalklr650 OP
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Gas guy thanks for the support. I am really looking forward to writing ride reports as we travel to more adventurous countries. There will be lots of pictures and videos too.

Beergut where is happy trails is that in the San Diego area? I really don't have the $500 for a rear shock(thats what they tell me the progressive shock is) Maybe i can find a used one.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:24 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beergut View Post
You probably havent bottomed out because you are already at the bottom. That shock is rated for ~180 pounds. You probably have 180 pounds worth of gear, plus you and your G/F wright.

Ride up to Happy-trail or see if Mike will help get you something set up.

You NEED suspension. I would not do the spring without the proper shock. You will be create a po-go stick effect with a heavy spring (which you need) and a stock shock. .
Another option with the stock shock is installing a Race Tech Gold valve in place of the stock valving and the appropriate spring, but you need someone who can rebuild the stock shock.The Gold Valve is about $150.00.
That is the setup I have on my Klr and I am happy with it.Actually, I prefer it over the Cogent shock I had on my old 2003 Klr a few years ago.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:47 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globalklr650 View Post
Gas guy thanks for the support. I am really looking forward to writing ride reports as we travel to more adventurous countries. There will be lots of pictures and videos too.

Beergut where is happy trails is that in the San Diego area? I really don't have the $500 for a rear shock(thats what they tell me the progressive shock is) Maybe i can find a used one.
Happy trails is in Boise, Idaho.

If you are still in San Diego, I would talk to the Dual sport club you were dealing with or Eagle Mike about your shock and get their advice about what direction to go on it.

But, you have come this far on the stock shock, if you are happy with it you can always just continue on till it needs service.
Stock shocks are cheap too,as long as you can get one mailed to you wherever you are, or aquire one locally.

Also, understand that any after market shock is going to need service and develope seal leaks also, sometimes sooner than a stock shock.
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:14 AM   #53
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Does anyone know when a chain and sprockets are really dead? Like can't go more than 600miles and it will fail. I will post pictures of my hooking drive sprocket soon.

I have to replace my chain soon and probinly should before mexico. We got 16,000 miles so far on the chain with our overloaded 1,100lb bike.

Does anyone know what the stock chain and sprocket are for the 2011 klr650? Where is the cheapest place to find them?

Thanks
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:41 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globalklr650 View Post
Does anyone know when a chain and sprockets are really dead? Like can't go more than 600miles and it will fail. I will post pictures of my hooking drive sprocket soon.

I have to replace my chain soon and probinly should before mexico. We got 16,000 miles so far on the chain with our overloaded 1,100lb bike.

Does anyone know what the stock chain and sprocket are for the 2011 klr650? Where is the cheapest place to find them?

Thanks




I've been getting sprockets and chains from KLR650.net as a package deal. Also since you're loaded so heavy you need to adjust your chain with the bike loaded. You don't want to have to tight of a chain.
I'm not sure of the proper way to set up a shock, but I installed a 600lb spring on my stock shock, and progressive springs in the forks. I haven't had any problems with this set up. But I way 265lbs, and use ammo cans for panniers, and a 46 litre Givi trunk. I'm probably pretty close to your load when I'm loaded. This has worked for 55000 miles, and 7 years.
I always hear how much weight the ammo cans add, but they are indestructable. I've dropped the bike hard on them a few times, and they still look good. I have them mounted on a ratpack rack. The ammo cans also help the bike float if you get into deep water.lol
I'm looking forward to the rest of your RR. Take your time enjoy the ride.
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:00 PM   #55
globalklr650 OP
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Klrzorn,

Great advice thanks.

I will check klr.net for the chain and sprockets.

For the front is there different types of progressive springs and what do you have?

For the 600lb rear spring what is the make? Do you use it with the stock klr rear shock? What years is you klr?

This RR should get more interesting once we have the bike set up and we are going into mexico. I will try and post pictures and a weekly video.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:52 PM   #56
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klrzorn View Post
I've been getting sprockets and chains from KLR650.net as a package deal. Also since you're loaded so heavy you need to adjust your chain with the bike loaded. You don't want to have to tight of a chain.
I'm not sure of the proper way to set up a shock, but I installed a 600lb spring on my stock shock, and progressive springs in the forks. I haven't had any problems with this set up. But I way 265lbs, and use ammo cans for panniers, and a 46 litre Givi trunk. I'm probably pretty close to your load when I'm loaded. This has worked for 55000 miles, and 7 years.
I always hear how much weight the ammo cans add, but they are indestructable. I've dropped the bike hard on them a few times, and they still look good. I have them mounted on a ratpack rack. The ammo cans also help the bike float if you get into deep water.lol
I'm looking forward to the rest of your RR. Take your time enjoy the ride.
If you adjust your chain properly, it will be fine for any load.You don't have to have the bike loaded to do so.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:56 PM   #57
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Link to spring info

Heres some good info on rear springs for the Klr.They have anything else you need also.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...3Vm52Dt5w009Cg

There is also a nice spring rate chart on this page.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:24 AM   #58
globalklr650 OP
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Some much good advice.

For the chain and sprockets i looked at the primary drive o ring chain and steel sprockets and it was only $72. This is nice and cheep but i am concerted the kit will be just that, cheep. I want to get high milage out of this stuff.

But again I will start putting ride reports on here soon this is just my last
Chance for maintenance beforeMexico so I don't want to forget anything.

Below is my maintenance record sheet if anyone is interested


Km
5400.7 started trip from Montreal June 20, 2012
Forgot to record data here
9733 at cold lake
9834 chain lube
10130. 12k service tires anakee 2 installed font and back lube chain oil change
10446 left cold lake July 27
10944?
11162 lubed chain because rain washed it off
11266 chain slack 1.5 inches
11602 checked chain slack 1.5 inches lube chain
11942 lube chain for dirt biking
12646 lube chain rain out of lube
13018 lube chain
13741 lube chain
14037 lube chain because of rain
14671 lube chain
15328 lube chain
15615 added oil because level was bottom 1/4 of sight glass and started 3/4 full so burning oil, filled back to 3/4 using half a liter of Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil sae 10w-40 hope its ok to mix with the kawasaki oil, half oil saved,
15841 lube chain
16042 lube chain because of rain
16574 lube because dirty from off road
16756 lube chain because cleaned with hose because still dirty
17689 lube chain last one before Vancouver
18283 lube chain and filled .5liters of AMS oil before whistler trip
18868 2nd gear motorcycle shop pre service chain adjust and lube, headlight replaced bark buster bolt replaced and skid plate bolt
19000 service at second gear, install center stand, Air filter clean with break cleaner, rear tire Shinko e-705 with hidinuaw heavy duty tube, oil and filter change cold emgo and lucas 10w-40 semi synthetic, battery check it's good,
19010 bike died 4 times after idling for about 30 second hard to start after not sure what wrong, started again then ran ok
19044 lube chain using center stand (cs), oil at top mark with cs front tire on ground
19447 Chain lube because of rain
19820 lube chain because of rain
20299 lube chain because of rain
20500 lube chain wet roads, added 1/4 liter of Lucus sim synthetic 10 w 40 oil (same as oil in the bike) because oil was at half full on center stand with font wheel on the ground. Filled up to upper mark
20788 lube chain, front brake looks low
21330 lube chain
21739 lube chain, on center stand oil at lower mark, added half a liter of oil to get to upper mark
22336 adjust chain over 2 inch play 2.25 and 2.5 right side swing arm adjustment, adjusted to 2.75 (out of total of 6) on both sides, 1 inch to 1.5 play in chain, there is a tyte spot
22414 lube dry chain
22665 lube chain
23118 added last of oil, up to top make
23238 front brake pads installed EBC brakes double-h superbike streetsport and race formula FA228HH
23449 lube chain
23716 lube chain after lots of sand riding
24073 eagle mike
oil change (shell rotella T 15w-40 triple protection jaso ma mike says ok for bike) and filter hi flo oil filter, magnetic oil drain plug catches metal low profile, clean airfilter with water and uni foam filter clean spray uni filter oil used, eagle mike doohickey installed with torsion spring,

Valve adjustment done and new shims

To start
Exhaust .15 min. .15 to .25
Intake .10 min. .1 to .2

Gap gets smaller from use.

New shims to get to max
260 shims from intake to exhaust
250 shims in intake

Exhuast gap .25 max
Instake .2 max

24124 lube chain kinda warm
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:27 AM   #59
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Below is a movie of us driving the overloaded bike on paved and unpaved
Mountain roads. At the end of tje movie is the climb up a steep gravel road and you can see how we had the bike packed at the end. I was very concerned the brakes would overheat with heavy braking going down hill. I actually threw water on the brakes and It flash boiled, not sure if that was a good idea, i dont want to warp the brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddTOD...e_gdata_player
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:13 AM   #60
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What an Adventure!

You have many of us green with envy at the trip you two are undertaking. I look forward to following along.

On the issue of suspension, I echo the comments of others that you should get that done before venturing south. The other thing I would do while you have access to tools and Eagle Mike is his subframe bolt upgrade. I did it on my 2011 KLR before I even started the break-in. The kit is inexpensive and the piece of mind it provides when you load the bike up is priceless.

Safe travels, David
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