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Old 12-14-2012, 05:46 AM   #166
slide
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Why is there a hand in the desert? What are those high pressure hoses attached to in the front of that sidecar?

BTW, I said that once about sidecars & the owner said they have the advantages of both bikes and cars. Change your frame; change the game.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:58 AM   #167
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Why is there a hand in the desert?
It's called art
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What are those high pressure hoses attached to in the front of that sidecar?
Oil cooler
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BTW, I said that once about sidecars & the owner said they have the advantages of both bikes and cars. Change your frame; change the game.
Not this thing... Just look at those tires. It's bastardized.
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:31 AM   #168
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I've added the Garmin Mapsource files for each country. Most are tracks as ridden, some have waypoints of hotels and repair shops. For the US, some exist as routes and tracks. By default, the end of each track is a hotel where I stayed the night. Enjoy. http://www.nohorizons.net/2012/countries.html
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:31 PM   #169
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Put on meditation music and read your thread for a second time.
A modest request, more portraiture please.

Long ago in England three wheels were road taxed as motorcycles this encouraged sidecars and three wheeled cars like Morgan.
One of the better outfits is offered by the Dutch, EML Sidecars.
Back in the day the provider would commute via motorbike and only use the chair for family outings.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:03 AM   #170
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December 23, 2012 - From Taltal, I rode to La Serena and paused for a few days. It was a comfortable and warm stop. Interesting conversations with pair of New Zealand lawyers, just starting on their careers, lasted well into the night a few times.

La Serena is a beach town, so I made the obligatory pilgrimage to the beach to observe sand and water, personally unmoved by the combination that makes people flock to such destinations.



A walk around town resulted in a meager collection of pictures, although the local museum had a few worthy items.



From La Serena, the road continued south to Santiago. The main road in Chile is quite nice and doesn't differ in quality from anything you would find in North America or Europe.



Gas is about as expensive and a diet pop at the local Shell Select convenience store sets you back about $1.5, similar prices to back home. The only thing vastly more expensive are the hotels. Travel is certainly not getting cheaper.

Santiago was the next stop. An earlier inquiry led to a decent hostal where I parked the bike for a few days. One of the pursuits was a new tire. After twenty one thousand kilometers, it was time to retire the Shinko rear tire. It had another few thousand kilometers of life left on it, but finding a decent replacement further south might be less convenient.

Santiago disappointed a bit in that I had a more romanticized view of it somehow. It's just a big city with a few decent buildings and a nice fine art museum.



In Santiago I met up again with Jan who was temporarily distracted by a woman he'd encountered in Columbia and we rode on further south, direction Chillan and Villarrica.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:24 AM   #171
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Great pics!

Is that a shrunken head?
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:56 AM   #172
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Great pics!
Thanks!

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Is that a shrunken head?
It is indeed. There are a few of them sprinkled around museums in Ecuador, Colombia and now here. Pretty spooky stuff.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:07 PM   #173
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December 29, 2012 - A few days of rain in Santiago set the scene for the next week. An uneventful ride to Chillan and Villarrica over perfectly straight roads ended in rain.

In Chillan, the only mildly amusing event was a dinner at the local fire station. The place operates as a restaurant and serves quite decent meals for mere peanuts, at least by Chilean standards. Our next stop was Villarrica, where we arrived at the start of a rainy afternoon. Despite inquiring here and there, we failed to find accommodation that wasn't stratospherically priced, although the town itself was dead, not a tourist to be seen. So we pressed on to Pucon, a tourist town twenty five kilometers further.

In Pucon, we found a place just as the heavens opened up. And the rain continued for three full days. Not just a wee bit of rain, but volumes sufficient to drench you in a few steps. Although there were some gaps, the rain didn't let up much. On day three, we managed to go for a walk during a break in the weather. We walked past a unguarded gated community and ended up in a nice enclave. It could have been West Vancouver, with huge houses tucked away in the greenery, out of sight from the main road.



From Pucon, we rode on to Puerto Varas, which is beautifully located on a lake with a volcano towering in the background.



When you are traveling, you sometimes doubt the sanity of it all. Talking to others, mostly non-travelers back home, does not help this feeling. But just in case you get the idea that riding a motorcycle around the world, without a single hotel booking, map or guidebook strikes you as foolish, rest assured there are always people out there crazier than you.



The car above is an '80s or so Polish copy of a Fiat 500. It's propped up on the curb because the driver just changed a wheel bearing. A few feet further we found a 1957 Jawa, all of 250 cc, single cylinder.



Also present were two Trabants.





Note the ingenious fuel lines coming from the tanks strapped to the roof. Did I mention all this stuff was two-stroke?

From Quellon, we took the night ferry to Chaiten to start on the Carretera Austral. We ran into a few more overlanders and I ended up chatting with Kobus (from liferemotely.com) and his wife Jessica. Jessica's write-up was the one we used to help us with the convoluted process of shipping the bikes from Panama to Colombia. It was good to be able to thank her in person.

And if you think riding a motorcycle across the world is expensive, try this on for size. A full-size truck with all the trappings.



We stayed in Chaiten for a day to relax, do laundry and repair an electrical problem. A walk around Chaiten puzzled us at first, as there were so many abandoned houses. A little inquiring and some web research filled in the blanks as to what happened here. In 2008, a volcano eruption wiped away half the town, with the balance of the residents being resettled for a year elsewhere.

The signs of destruction are still visible everywhere, with houses buried in runoff from the volcano.



And then we hopped onto the Carretera Austral.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:24 AM   #174
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Are those guys in the Trabants sponsored? Or are stickers just what they do for kicks?
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:56 AM   #175
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Are those guys in the Trabants sponsored? Or are stickers just what they do for kicks?
Is it these guys?!?!
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #176
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Are those guys in the Trabants sponsored? Or are stickers just what they do for kicks?
Sponsored, for some of it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #177
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Is it these guys?!?!
Yup
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:21 PM   #178
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January 5, 2013 - The Carretera Austral started off nice enough. Beautiful pavement and great vistas. Fifty kilometers from Chaiten, the road as we knew it ended and gravel started. It was the start of a long and sometimes painful experience.

The unending battering we and the bikes endured came with lots of spectacular highlights and the next six days proved to be very much worth the effort. Our first decent stop was Puyuhuapi. The weather was ok, the vistas not too spectacular and the lady who ran the hostal was muttering at every turn. In some ways the surroundings looked very much like British Columbia in spring or fall.



The road varied - a lot. This is the butter-smooth six lane highway variety of the Carretera Austral.



On day two, the weather cleared up quite a bit.



The pictures below give you a good idea of what the general vistas are like while riding the Carretera Austral.





One of our stops was Puerto Tranquilo, where we visited the Catedral De Marmol, a marble structure in the middle of the lake, surrounded by lots of caves.





After six days, we were ready for a change - and paved roads, so we escaped via Cochrane and Chile Chico to Argentina.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:02 AM   #179
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Was there much traffic on that gravel road?
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:11 AM   #180
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Was there much traffic on that gravel road?
10-20 cars per hour I guess
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