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Old 12-21-2012, 09:39 PM   #16
bmwktmbill
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I'm gonna keep my mouth shut, I'm still getting over an air box full of oil after Gunner tried to talk some sense into me about valves.

Plus I have been through pistons and overheating problems that reduced me to idiot status.

I wish I was just the pilot.
bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:30 AM   #17
Umarth OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Umarth,
Maybe you just need to check the bore by lowering the piston, the bore should look good to the eye, if you do pull the cylinder off you can recompress the rings with your fingers if you are careful, I have never broken one using that technique. Just feed the piston into the bore, It is chanfered.

The weight of the cylinder coming down the studs is a help but if you can find a helper that's nice too if she is beautiful.

Gaskets are a good call, carb parts, 1M of fuel line is always handy, tubes and tire stuff. I carry an electric air pump that's been used many times by myself and other riders I stopped to help. I'd carry a countershaft sprocket, a chain tool and replacement links, a couple of spokes, the used brake pads you have from replacing them with new just before you leave.

I carry a fan switch and a temp sender switch, lots of stuff I know but in many places parts just don't exist and have to be DHL'd in-DHELL.
Well, since it's just a few more bolts, I'm gonna take the piston out and check if the rings are still within specs.
So it is chamfered? Exellent! At worse I could of rigued a ring compressor out of a 2L coke bottle. :p

Good call about the spokes and fuel line, had not thought of those. Even though I'll be carrying a spoke torque wrenche, I was forgetting some spokes.

As for the fan switch and temp sensor switches; they know the bugger out? Or do you carry them just because if they quit your f'd and they probably dont take that much space anyway?

Suspension is scheduled for sure and will be bringing a rebuild kit must probably.
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:48 PM   #18
bmwktmbill
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Umar,
Try to get another opinion on the Chamfer, my memory says yes.

For the switches and the rear brakelight switch as well I carried them just because along with brake master cyl. kits and caliper kits.

I'd pop the grease seal on the sprocket carrier bearing and add a little grease, grease the swing arm bolt and pivot, bleed the brakes and Only use Dot 4, Dot 3 won't cut long steep descents., especially the rear caliper will boil fully loaded dragging down a twisty mountain road in the 2nd/third world.

For wheels, I tied my spokes and carried a regular motion Pro wrench, the torque wrench was in my wrist.I tightened my spokes every time I change a tire and oil them on the inside first so the nipples are smooth.the junk under the rim band will scare you so I clean that.

You do have to go over every electrical connection with silicone grease or oil.
You will need the countershaft O-rng and bushing. I reuse the bolt and spring washer but put it om with red Loctite.

That's a hassle because you need a propane torch to get it loose. I carried filters behind the windshield.

Clutch and throttle cables of course.

Special tools...snap ring pliers, needle nosed vice grips, scissors, feeler gauges, Yada yada, the list goes on and on.

bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #19
dnrobertson
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Bill mentioned the countershaft O-rng. Take 2-3 of these as they will double for the clutch slave o-ring if it shits itself(2006 have hydraulic clutch). You can use baby oil, fork oil as the fluid in a pinch. DO NOT use DOT Brake fluid.

2006 also has a lock washer and large nut on the countershaft. In Australia I have always got a different type of lock washer than when I order in the USA. Using the Australian lock washer, you can bend the washer over the large nut (after fixing to correct torque and using loctite). This ensures the nut does not come undone. Take a couple of the lock washer as well.

I use Loctite on everything. If I don't use it, I lose the bolt/nut.
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dnrobertson screwed with this post 12-23-2012 at 03:19 AM Reason: Cannot spell loktight :-)
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:49 PM   #20
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
Bill mentioned the countershaft O-rng. Take 2-3 of these as they will double for the clutch slave o-ring if it shits itself(2006 have hydraulic clutch). You can use baby oil, fork oil as the fluid in a pinch. DO NOT use DOT Brake fluid.

2006 also has a lock washer and large nut on the countershaft. In Australia I have always got a different type of lock washer than when I order in the USA. Using the Australian lock washer, you can bend the washer over the large nut (after fixing to correct torque and using loctite). This ensures the nut does not come undone. Take a couple of the lock washer as well.

I use Loctite on everything. If I don't use it, I lose the bolt/nut.
That lockwasher idea is interesting, wonder if it is the same size as the lock washer(bendable) on the clutch?
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:10 AM   #21
dnrobertson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
That lockwasher idea is interesting, wonder if it is the same size as the lock washer(bendable) on the clutch?
bill
Sorry Bill doesn't look like it.

A quick check at Munn's shows it was a 2003.5 introduction and the part number for the washer only cross-references to various other models for the same tranmission shaft, not the clutch. For an earlier model, you would need a new shaft to use the new washer and nut.

I know when I first got my 2006, I didn't bend the washer and the nut loosened with 1000 Km (it was tightened to the torque specs with loctite). Did it back up, and bent the washer and no more problems, EVER! And I have even re-used the washer several times.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #22
Umarth OP
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Tuning the carb & Fuel air ratio sensor

Came upon an interesting product today: a wide band Air/Fuel digital gauge plus sensor and controler for 200$.

I'm wondering if this would be a good thing to add to the lc4 for my coming trip.
Since the bike will be going to lots at varing altitudes (front coastals to higher regions of patagonia) and me not being use to tunning carbs. Would having a display telling me just how lean/rich the mixture is help in keeping the carb properly setup?

And if so, would the 14.7 to 1 (i think) be where I would want to keep it at all times or would I rather err on the the rich side a bit?
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:46 AM   #23
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umarth View Post
Came upon an interesting product today: a wide band Air/Fuel digital gauge plus sensor and controler for 200$.

I'm wondering if this would be a good thing to add to the lc4 for my coming trip.
Since the bike will be going to lots at varing altitudes (front coastals to higher regions of patagonia) and me not being use to tunning carbs. Would having a display telling me just how lean/rich the mixture is help in keeping the carb properly setup?

And if so, would the 14.7 to 1 (i think) be where I would want to keep it at all times or would I rather err on the the rich side a bit?
The short answer is no.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:22 PM   #24
bmwktmbill
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UM,
The BST40 is designed to self compensate for altitude changes, the KTM factory is 60 miles from the Alps where they test their motorcycles like the Adventure series.

You can play with this map to see the relationship between the factory at Mattigofen and the Alps.

http://www.maplandia.com/austria/obe...n/mattighofen/

bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:42 AM   #25
fastdadio
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Quick question for KTMBill??

Lurkin in here as usual. Quick question for KTMBill, then I'll get lost as not to jack the thread. Up on post #18, Bill recommended bleeding brakes with dot #4. My 2000 uses dot 5.5 which is a silicone based fluid. This is not compatable with the glycol based dot #3/4 type fluids. Did KTM change the spec fluid over the years? Am I missing something here? Don't mix 3&4 systems with 5. Just sayin.....Thanks guys, I now return you to the regularly scheduled banter..
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
bmwktmbill
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Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
Lurkin in here as usual. Quick question for KTMBill, then I'll get lost as not to jack the thread. Up on post #18, Bill recommended bleeding brakes with dot #4. My 2000 uses dot 5.5 which is a silicone based fluid. This is not compatable with the glycol based dot #3/4 type fluids. Did KTM change the spec fluid over the years? Am I missing something here? Don't mix 3&4 systems with 5. Just sayin.....Thanks guys, I now return you to the regularly scheduled banter..
Fast,
The top lid on my handlebar reservoir, '02 640a, says "Use Dot 4 Only".

I used some Dot 3 cause I was leaving for Central America and was in a rush. I lost the rear brake completely coming down a volcano to Lago Atitlan in Guate.

Problem cured with Dot 4.
Speciality item in Guatemala small towns.

Scares me to see blown out USA school buses coming down the mountains with Dot 3 in the system, teen age drivers shifting gears like crazy.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:50 AM   #27
warewolf
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DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are compatible, the higher number the higher temperature tolerance but not necessarily "better" depending on other characteristics. You can go higher than specified (eg use 5.1 in systems marked 4) but should not go lower - as Bill discovered when using his bike hard.

DOT 5.0 is the silicone-based stuff and can't be mixed with the others without proper flushing of the system first.

/PEDANT
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:09 AM   #28
fastdadio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf View Post
DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are compatible, the higher number the higher temperature tolerance but not necessarily "better" depending on other characteristics. You can go higher than specified (eg use 5.1 in systems marked 4) but should not go lower - as Bill discovered when using his bike hard.

DOT 5.0 is the silicone-based stuff and can't be mixed with the others without proper flushing of the system first.

/PEDANT
Yup, you get the ceegar! Says right here that you can put dot 5 in a 3/4 system with proper flushing of the system. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5
There are advantages to dot 5. For those intrested in conversion, read up on the term 'proper flushing' before trying this at home. It also appears KTM has changed the brake fluid spec. sometime after 2000. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:18 AM   #29
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
There are advantages to dot 5.
DOT 5 is a bad idea because it is not hygroscopic (i.e. does not hold moisture in suspension).

Regards,

Derek
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