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Old 12-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #91
GAS GUY OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I rode a buddy's 2008 just like yours - well, except it was stock (but with Kawasaki-replaced rings to fix the oil issue). I was surprised at how much more neutral and comfortable the bike was compared to my DR650. I can see the KLR's ergonomics easily making a prior GSA-rider happy... and that whole package you bought really making anyone happy.
I was glad to get one with most all of the expensive mods already done, and now I can finish it with whats important to me, along with complete a maintenance service.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:13 PM   #92
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Thing is, even with a brand new bike, big bore kit, full suspension, and every farkle you ever want to bolt up to the klr, your still less than half the price of a gsa. And all the fun.

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Old 12-12-2012, 03:30 PM   #93
Murphy Slaw
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I hated to see even Eagle Mikes spring broke.

We should see if John Deere makes one that will fit. I've seen John Deere spings that were 50 years old.....

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Old 12-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Murphy Slaw View Post
I hated to see even Eagle Mikes spring broke.

We should see if John Deere makes one that will fit. I've seen John Deere spings that were 50 years old.....

I don't think the Torsion spring will be an issue anymore, after moving the hole location and being careful during installation.

With that original hole at 8:00 it is real tough installing the spring, and it would have alot of tension.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:11 AM   #95
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If anyone is interested, Super bright leds.com is now having a 10% off sale.
The coupon code is XMAS12
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:21 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
If anyone is interested, Super bright leds.com is now having a 10% off sale.
The coupon code is XMAS12
was having fun just reading the tread , now I get an bonus for reading it . Been meaning to order some leds for the camper and a tail light for my little super sherpa . Nice looking /setup klr , I about bought one when I got my super sherpa and still look at them hard at the show rooms or on the road . I think my next bike it going to be an used wee strom for the road and some gravel/fire trail running but if I had to have only have one bike it would be an klr.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:54 PM   #97
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Valve clearance check

After buttoning up the left side cover after installing the Torsion spring and deep hole spacer, I pulled the valve cover and measured and recorded the valve clearances.

They were fine, and at the loose end of specs so it should be a long time before they need adjusted.

While I had the cover off, I checked and made sure the cam cap bolts were tight.

That is something I am paranoid about ever since a Drz 400 I had loosened up and destroyed the cam and head shortly after I bought it.I suspect someone before me had worked on the bike and forgot to tighten them properly.

I also just read a ride report the other day of a KLR that put the decompression mechanism on the end of the exhaust cam up through the valve cover, and the caps and cam of course destroyed.From looking at the pictures it looks to me like
the cam caps loosened up and with the cam chain pulling down in the front it destroyed the cam journals and cracked one of the caps and allowed the back of the cam to rise until the decompression mechanism hit the cover.

Once again,I suspect someone adjusted the valves and did not torque the bolts.Theres no way for me to know for sure

But it seems likely.

So just make sure your cam cap bolts are torqued, especially if you don't know who was in your engine !!
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:06 PM   #98
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Link to the ride report with top end problem

Here is a link to the RR I referred to.Its a great read also, and good pics of the damage on the Klr.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=843969
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:28 AM   #99
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Yesterday I disassembled all the suspension and swingarm linkages and lubed all the bearings and cavities with Maxima waterproof grease.

While the shock was off I verified the spring was a Eibach 550 in lb., which I was glad, as it is plenty of spring, and actually the heaviest spring that Eibach sells for the KLR now because anything more and it exceeds the GVWR.

I buttoned that all up and torqued it all to spec, and then pulled the carburetor to clean and verify all the jetting and replace the phillips screws on the float bowl and diaphragm cover with stainless allen bolts and add a T mod to the vent.

The MAIN jet is the stock 145 , but the needle is a Klx with the clip on the 2nd groove.

The SLIDE HOLE is stock.(It is not drilled.)

The PILOT jet is stock #40, but I opened it a hair with a #78 number drill,which isn't even .001" bigger.

It should put the PILOT between a stock #40 and a #42.

The FLOAT LEVEL was dead perfect at .690".

And the adjustable FUEL SCREW was 2 turns out, I will have to play with that once I get back on the road.

The AIRBOX is stock except for the removed snorkel.I am going to open it up some more.

I also installed a Sunstar 16 tooth sprocket.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:14 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Yesterday I disassembled all the suspension and swingarm linkages and lubed all the bearings and cavities with Maxima waterproof grease.
While the shock was off I verified the spring was a Eibach 550 in lb., which I was glad, as it is plenty of spring, and actually the heaviest spring that Eibach sells for the Klr now because anything more and it exceeds the Gvwr.
I buttoned that all up and torqued it all to spec, and then pulled the carburetor to clean and verify all the jetting and replace the phillips screws on the float bowl and diaphragm cover with stainless allen bolts and add a T mod to the vent.
The main jet is the stock 145 , but the needle is a Klx with the clip on the 2nd groove.
The slide hole is stock.
The pilot jet is stock #40, but I opened it a hair with a#78 number drill which isn't even a .001" bigger.It should put it between a stock 40 and a 42.
The float level was dead perfect at .690".
And the adjustable fuel screw was 2 turns out, I will have to play with that once I get back on the road.
The airbox is stock except for the removed snorkel.I am going to open it up some more.

I also installed a Sunstar 16 tooth sprocket.
Jeff you been Spending a lot,of work on that KLR. I hope mine dose not need all that done to it,,,,,mine only has about 7000 sMILES,,,,,,was there a factory recall on the bolt you replaced on the sub frame,,,,,my dealer replace:a bolt somewhere and also replaced,all 4 signal lights ,the rubber bases were deterrariing.... KLR are great all around bikes,,,I think you made a wise choice , I will sell mine this spring,,,,the CRF 250 l. Is a super bike for me just like,it,is,,,
I am gonna do,the MHC ride Feb 28----,March. 3. 2013..I will post registration a date in the MTF. RRR section later in January....would like for you and you buddy to come down,
Uncle jimmy. Hope you have a Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:58 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Yesterday I disassembled all the suspension and swingarm linkages and lubed all the bearings and cavities with Maxima waterproof grease.
While the shock was off I verified the spring was a Eibach 550 in lb., which I was glad, as it is plenty of spring, and actually the heaviest spring that Eibach sells for the Klr now because anything more and it exceeds the Gvwr.
I buttoned that all up and torqued it all to spec, and then pulled the carburetor to clean and verify all the jetting and replace the phillips screws on the float bowl and diaphragm cover with stainless allen bolts and add a T mod to the vent.
The main jet is the stock 145 , but the needle is a Klx with the clip on the 2nd groove.
The slide hole is stock.
The pilot jet is stock #40, but I opened it a hair with a#78 number drill which isn't even a .001" bigger.It should put it between a stock 40 and a 42.
The float level was dead perfect at .690".
And the adjustable fuel screw was 2 turns out, I will have to play with that once I get back on the road.
The airbox is stock except for the removed snorkel.I am going to open it up some more.

I also installed a Sunstar 16 tooth sprocket.
Re-greasing linkage bearings is a good annual service. Probably last forever as long as the bearings have grease!

Don't know about the KLR but my DR650 really responded GREAT to opening the air box up. Also added a Dyno Jet needle which allowed tunability (stock needle is fixed). Huge difference in throttle response ... and still gets 50 MPG. Just a slightly richer main jet is all that's required. That DR loves L E A N ! KLR is probably similar. Let her breath, run her LEAN. They can handle it and your MPG will be fantastic ... and it will still run well up over 10,000 ft.

(Hey, nice Blue Merrell Aussie there! I had a red years ago!)
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:28 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by Unclejimmy1 View Post
Jeff you been Spending a lot,of work on that KLR. I hope mine dose not need all that done to it,,,,,mine only has about 7000 sMILES,,,,,,was there a factory recall on the bolt you replaced on the sub frame,,,,,my dealer replace:a bolt somewhere and also replaced,all 4 signal lights ,the rubber bases were deterrariing.... KLR are great all around bikes,,,I think you made a wise choice , I will sell mine this spring,,,,the CRF 250 l. Is a super bike for me just like,it,is,,,
I am gonna do,the MHC ride Feb 28----,March. 3. 2013..I will post registration a date in the MTF. RRR section later in January....would like for you and you buddy to come down,
Uncle jimmy. Hope you have a Merry Christmas.
Uncle Jimmy,
The subframe bolt is just a popular mod, especially for big guys and touring load.

Yes, I am pretty much going through the whole bike, mostly maintenance and small mods as most of the big mods are already done.As a Mechanic by trade, I am anal about maintenance and try to limit chances of any problems during riding season.Also, it helps me during the winter months having somewhat of a project.

I would love to get down there, but with work, and family, it really limits my mobility right now.But, sooner or later I will.Now that you got that sweet, lightweight 250L, you have at least another 20 years of riding left in you !!
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:47 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by Unclejimmy1 View Post
Jeff you been Spending a lot,of work on that KLR. I hope mine dose not need all that done to it,,,,
Doesn't look like a lot of work to me; looks like some curiosity satisfied and a bit of entertainment.

No KLR really "needs" this stuff *, but knowing what has been done before and knowing it's all clean for a new season is peace of mind for some of us (and unwelcome work for others). I think mine runs better with the KLX needle and whatever jet I eventually chose. (I'll open it up later this month and look -- just because.)

*Some riders will need the subframe bolts for heavier loads or harder landings.
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:36 PM   #104
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*Some riders will need the subframe bolts for heavier loads or harder landings.
I just did the subframe bolts on my bike last week simply because I was already ordering parts from HT and it was $5 (only 2 bolts need replaced on '08+). Took about 3 minutes. I don't usually have a heavy load, but after seeing pictures of bikes that failed, I don't ever want to be in that situation
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Old 12-25-2012, 05:44 PM   #105
Murphy Slaw
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*Some riders will need the subframe bolts for heavier loads or harder landings.
I read about this mod being done a lot, but have never read about them actually breaking. This would seem to be a major liability for the big "K" if they do indeed break off during travel. Does it happen often, or is it just preventive?

Great thread, by the way.
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