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Old 12-19-2012, 08:06 PM   #3856
Doorguy1979
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Parachute, Colorado, USA
Oddometer: 626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker1980 View Post
Certainly. It was dark when I made that post, so I took some pictures of my nasty, dirty KLR. There are a couple I forgot to mention, first of which was removing the thing in the exhaust that made it whistle, second the automotive-style horn I installed. The horn is really great, gets more attention than the little "Meep-Meep" horn.

Bash plate:



Lifting Links: (I may make an improved set that are actually dogbone-shaped.)



The whole bike. Such as it is. It's a daily driver though, no matter the weather. I guess I should wash it.

I made my own links too, how much did difference in length did you go?
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:06 PM   #3857
Cobain
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Spokane
Oddometer: 132
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinker1980 View Post
Certainly. It was dark when I made that post, so I took some pictures of my nasty, dirty KLR. There are a couple I forgot to mention, first of which was removing the thing in the exhaust that made it whistle, second the automotive-style horn I installed. The horn is really great, gets more attention than the little "Meep-Meep" horn.

Bash plate:



Lifting Links: (I may make an improved set that are actually dogbone-shaped.)



The whole bike. Such as it is. It's a daily driver though, no matter the weather. I guess I should wash it.


Rockin the milk crate!
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:13 AM   #3858
PWRCRZR
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Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Originally Posted by PacificPT View Post
PWRCRZR,

Look forward to following the rebuild. LED to decrease draw on the electrics?
I have been watching that topic on various threads, I am definitely going LED tail and I will probably look into the dash lights as well.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:16 PM   #3859
XpressCS
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Location: The big box California
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Speaking of LED tail lamps:



The turn signals are eBay specials and there is a flashing brake/tail lamp inside of the tail light, from SuperBrightLED's. Had to install an Electronic Flasher Relay from SuperBrightLEDs' as well in order to get the signals to blink. About as bright as stock, but much cleaner appearing. Ontop of that, the current draw from each turn signal is ~1watt vs 23 watts for the stock bulb? So 44 watts of current savings right there, coupled with my 3 watt tail light saving me an additional 25 watts for a grand total of 69 watts, or 5 amps total at full load.

Next up is the front turn signals, which will also likely be the same eBay specials, then just the dash lights are the only lights I have left to replace. Already running a 35w HID headlamp that is saving me 30 watts of power. Lotsa power savings here...
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XpressCS screwed with this post 12-25-2012 at 08:16 AM
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Old 12-26-2012, 01:11 PM   #3860
Dan in Grand Rapids
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Location: Grand Rapids
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Here are some of the things I have changed/altered/destroyed on the KLR.

Doo-hickey replaced
HT skid plate
HT radiator guards
HT hwy pegs and engine protectors
Subframe bolts upgraded
Progressive front springs
rebuilt rear shock with heavy spring,
HT racks and 40mm ammo cans,
Pelican topbox
extra rear LED brake and turn lights,
rear master cylinder cover
bypassed clutch and sidestand switches
added aux power outlet
added aux fuse block
added extra lights to front fork
taller windshield
Ft 500 rear pegs
serrated front pegs
Harley front fender
HT fork brace
carb shimmed, drilled etc.
manual petcock
POR 15 tank
Aftermarket hand guards
Removed license plate bracket
Added Tool Tube
Ratted up fairing
Everything coated in Bedliner.


Dan in Grand Rapids screwed with this post 12-26-2012 at 07:59 PM
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:19 PM   #3861
PacificPT
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I like the blackout look.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:52 PM   #3862
sandalscout
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Same here, looks good.

I have a few questions for you, if you don't mind.

Which bedliner did you use? I use the Duplicolor and it looks okay in spots, but I had a HECK of a time getting it to adhere in places and it crinkled up like crazy. I am considering doing it all again.

Did you spray the frame, swingarm, forks,rims with the same bedliner? How is it holding up? I would like an all black bike, but I would think that the forks and rims would just get scratched up really quickly.

Which Pelican is that? 1450?

Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:39 AM   #3863
electroken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Speaking of LED tail lamps:



The turn signals are eBay specials and there is a flashing brake/tail lamp inside of the tail light, from SuperBrightLED's. Had to install an Electronic Flasher Relay from SuperBrightLEDs' as well in order to get the signals to blink. About as bright as stock, but much cleaner appearing. Ontop of that, the current draw from each turn signal is ~1watt vs 23 watts for the stock bulb? So 44 watts of current savings right there, coupled with my 3 watt tail light saving me an additional 25 watts for a grand total of 69 watts, or 5 amps total at full load.

Next up is the front turn signals, which will also likely be the same eBay specials, then just the dash lights are the only lights I have left to replace. Already running a 35w HID headlamp that is saving me 30 watts of power. Lotsa power savings here...
Not trying to be the poop in the punch bowl, but your math only works for the interval in which your brake light and turn signal bulbs are lit simultaneously. It's a very small percentage of the time.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:17 AM   #3864
marc11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electroken View Post
Not trying to be the poop in the punch bowl, but your math only works for the interval in which your brake light and turn signal bulbs are lit simultaneously. It's a very small percentage of the time.
That is true but that draw is usually at the most crucial time at a stop or coming to a stop ie low rpm when thus alternator output is the lowest, so your need to save watts for other running items like heated gears is needed the most.

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Old 12-27-2012, 06:43 AM   #3865
Unstable Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandalscout View Post
Same here, looks good.

I have a few questions for you, if you don't mind.

Which bedliner did you use? I use the Duplicolor and it looks okay in spots, but I had a HECK of a time getting it to adhere in places and it crinkled up like crazy. I am considering doing it all again.

Thanks!
Just my experience, but I "tried" Duplicolor on a skid plate that was metal prepped, primed and should have taken it just fine, but it did not, and never dried. Had to scrape it off with a chisel, prep it all over again, and now I just run with it bare aluminum and I like that better.

Just say no to Duplicolor products. Unless ya like scraping!


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Old 12-27-2012, 07:46 AM   #3866
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstable Rider View Post
Just my experience, but I "tried" Duplicolor on a skid plate that was metal prepped, primed and should have taken it just fine, but it did not, and never dried. Had to scrape it off with a chisel, prep it all over again, and now I just run with it bare aluminum and I like that better.

Just say no to Duplicolor products. Unless ya like scraping!

That's just about the same experience for me too.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:08 AM   #3867
Aprilia
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 655
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
That is true but that draw is usually at the most crucial time at a stop or coming to a stop ie low rpm when thus alternator output is the lowest, so your need to save watts for other running items like heated gears is needed the most.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Again, how long do you plan on sitting there going nowhere? Trying to save wattage with turn signals and brake light bulb is, well, waste of time. Your battery has plenty of capacity to maintain your heated gear while idling at a stop light or as you stated braking for a stop light. At the same time your stator/rect will quickly/easily recharge said battery once moving again.

On the flip side, on one of my KLR's my heated gear exceeds the total capability of the charging system. Running down the road at 5000rpm still has me discharging my battery. I use a voltage meter to monitor and adjust my electrical loads as I'm riding. I often ride till my battery is less than 50% discharged (11.9-12.0vdc) then will unplug my heated gear to allow the charging system to catch up. Not the best thing for a battery but I know how to maintain/monitor my battery(s) and more than willing to replace them more often due to my behavior/treatment of said battery(s).
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:45 PM   #3868
RandoCommando
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Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electroken View Post
Not trying to be the poop in the punch bowl, but your math only works for the interval in which your brake light and turn signal bulbs are lit simultaneously. It's a very small percentage of the time.
The brake light is also a tail light, which is constantly on.
So you get savings from that.
And I always keep my brake engaged at lights for visibility of people approaching.
Not to mention, the engine RPMs are low when stopped and not doing much keep the voltage.
So it helps to have less of a draw with the brake light as well.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:07 PM   #3869
Stinky151
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Location: Montana
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I just got my Rekluse clutch installed in mine, and holy crap. Had one little adventure figuring some of the tuning out, but hurt my pride more than anything else. Pretty dumb ass move on my part.

Either way, the new clutch is amazing, now the roads just need to thaw out so I can really test it.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:37 AM   #3870
electroken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
The brake light is also a tail light, which is constantly on.
So you get savings from that.
And I always keep my brake engaged at lights for visibility of people approaching.
Not exactly. The taillight bulb has two filaments. The actual taillight is 5W. Applying the brake lights the second 21W filament, for a total of 26W. These numbers are from the factory service manual.

So the only significant number here is the 5W, as I find I often release the brake and actually go somewhere.
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