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12-27-2012, 06:44 AM
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#46 | |
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Trials Evangelist
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,012
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Quote:
Later that year he sold that sherco, bought a gasgas, and long story short, apparently decided he was too cheap to get the oil for the gasgas like he'd been told, and tried to use the leftover sherco oil. Nothing bad happened, but he couldnt ride the gasgas with that oil in it, clutch just felt like crap, so he had to change it out again, things were fine. this was when we were using that GM Autotrak2 stuff. Weight of the oil for the sherco, could be wrong in story above, seems like that was several years back, and is only anecdotal evidence even now. |
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12-27-2012, 08:29 AM
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#47 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2007
Oddometer: 111
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Tried to source the Redline 80w gear oil without any success so went ahead with the Redline 10w30. Put exactly 380cc in this time and no clutch drag. Clutch feels allot smother at creeping speed and (could be my imagination) shifts even feel better. If only this stuff was cheaper I'd be sold on it, best price I could find is 9 bucks a quart and have to buy it by the case. Curious to find out how much the Yamalube 0w30 oil can be had for.
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12-27-2012, 11:29 AM
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#48 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: nm
Oddometer: 859
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Back when I worked at the yamaha shop we always ran Bel Ray gear saver oil in the two strokes. That`s probably what was in the sherco. Would not work well in a pro. I switched to atf when I bought my first beta in `91. The old txt`s could run the real motorcycle blend oils, but a few still ran atf. The gear oils we are talking about are made for a two stroke motorcycle and are not the heavy hypoid oils. I`ve always ran dex 3 in the pro`s, but might consider the redline for better lubrication. Have to have the best clutch action is the main thing.
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12-27-2012, 02:42 PM
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#49 | |
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Trials Evangelist
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,012
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Quote:
I hear you about clutch action, I really like how mine felt with that obnoxiously priced GM autotrac2... seems pretty close to the 0w/30 stuff I get from yamalube. I thought I liked various ATF's, but the 1st shot of autotrac2 made a believer out of me, made the clutch so you could really feather it around a tight TIGHT turn. Try it, try the redline too. I think you will see what I mean about difference from light switch feel and what I like is a "dimmer" switch on the clutch... Where would you get the redline stuff? Scratch that... last thing I need is high dollar oils to keep in stock. I hate anymore, you have to order & wait for stuff to show up, so the fact that my reasonably close Yamaha dealer, stocks the stuff I use. we still buy it by the case, but you know UPS gets THEM here before Friday when you have to be loaded and head out. ![]() I have had 3 things I ordered for christmas, come from Cali, UPS tracked it to North carolina??? then back to KS. supposed to get here in 3 days, takes a week when you kind of "need" it. Stuff I didnt care when it gets here, takes 2 days, sometimes even when USPS is involved... Go Figure.
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12-27-2012, 02:59 PM
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#50 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 372
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I ran Lucas semi-synthetic 10-40 in my '08 Beta and my '11. It would not work in my '12, had to use mobil1 0-20 in it. I'm using Lucas synthetic 10-30 in the '13 4 stroke. I tried ATF in the '08 but I didn't like it at all!
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74 TY 80 and 250 86 TY350 86 TLR200 95 Sportster 1200 00 Monty 315R 11 Beta 250 |
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12-27-2012, 04:51 PM
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#51 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2007
Oddometer: 111
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Best price I could find on the Yamalube 0/30 semi synthetic snow mobile oil is 9 bucks a quart and still have to buy a case to get it. On top of that have to pay a shipping cost + tax, so in my case the Redline 10w30 comes out cheaper. Plus its a full synthetic jaso approved motor oil. Still costly but it seems to work the best of all the oils I have tried so far.
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