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Old 12-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #31
wagonpilot
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Instead of cutting them off, I threaded them and used them to install the handguards. I was not sure how far in they were welded and I am too lazy to hacksaw each end more than once!
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #32
Blaise W
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Brilliant! 'Wish I'd thought of that!
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:32 AM   #33
HighFive OP
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How do I change the oil?

Got about 500 miles on my Terra now, and its time for my first oil change. But, how do I change the oil?

Admittedly, this took a good bit of pondering. This bike is rather unique in this department.

I soon realized that I needed to engineer and fabricate a super duper custom tool to make the process much easier. It only costs $500.99

That would be $0.99 in material and $500 for my stunning cunning. Yeah, I know…..I'm a lot cheaper than BigDog. Let's just say he's more seasoned.


The official: TR650-HF-HangerGizmo




And its faithful sidekick; TR650-HF-Dingleballs




Key up some music…..please.









As usual, run the bike a fair bit to warm up the oil before changing. Let it sit a few minutes before draining.

Step 1: Drain the oil from the frame reservoir.

Surprisingly, this bolt is a Hex (Allen) head and not a Torx. And it was very tight.



I could not break it loose, as shown. I had to recruit a helper.



I broke it loose, then used a long Hex Wrench to remove it.



Bombs away...



The little drain bolt has a crush washer and the Service Manual says Torque Requirement = 24 Nm



I had substantial difficulty trying to re-tighten to that torque level. Its very hard to hold the flexible hose firmly while tightening the bolt.

So, I pulled out my all-time favorite secret weapon for oil drain plugs:



Go to the Yamaha shop and buy a tube of Yamabond 4. Great stuff, Maynard!

Some of the best gook every created. Its oil resistant and only semi-drying. I've covered all my oil drain plug threads with this wonderful stuff for years…never had a leak….never lost a drain plug…..never stripped threads due to over-tightening. Many of my friends have endured all of the above without it.

Funny story: my brother was once a mechanic at a Kawasaki shop. They used Yamabond 4 on every oil drain plug.
Its how I learned about it. Consider it good insurance.

If I had a new crush washer, I would have used it. That is always a good idea….spares are very cheap to purchase (pennies). Add it to My List.

Step 2: Drain the engine oil….here is the plug under the engine. Its the biggest nut of the bunch.



No need to remove the bolt in front of it which is connected to the oil piping. Recommend you do not break the seal on that banjo bolt (until necessary).



The engine oil drain plug is a 24mm socket size



I was glad to see it has a magnetic tip…..Husky (er uh BMW) didn't skimp on everything.

Clean this magnetic tip off real good. Remove all the metal shavings, as well as any nuts, washers, chunks of metal gears or piston rings....whatever may be clinging to it.

Replace the crush washer with a new one, if you have one. I don't (yet). I will have some on hand next time around. But, of course, I covered the threads with the amazing Yamabond 4 gook.

I was unsure how much Torque to apply to this bolt…..I cannot find its value listed in the Service Manual. If someone knows, or is less blind than me, please advise. Its a big bolt, so I just used about 26 Nm (20 ft-lbs) in the interim. Just snugged it up firmly without overdoing it...then applied the torque mentioned.

Step 3: Replace the oil filter. Remove the plastic cover over the drive sprocket. I used my spiffy-nifty, brand spanking new T-handle Torx…..a most timely Christmas gift from my wife (God bless Sweet Thang!); otherwise, I would have used my little red electric Pistolera. Note: a Stupid Dog like me needs color coordinated wrenches to match each bike....so I can easily remember which tools to use.



Notice there is a ground wire connected to the bottom bolt. Keep track of this for re-installation.



Guessing its related to the rear brake switch….I didn't take the time to trace it down, at this point.

Oil filter housing is right here:



Its a messy job, being located above the side case and drive shaft assembly. I had to gently wedge a flat screwdriver between the housing and side case to pop the seal on the cover where I could remove it. Take your time….tap on it with a soft hammer gingerly and it will free up.

I was glad to see a nice big filter…..more insurance for long road trips.



Not too much metal from break-in is evident, but maybe that is due to the large filter size. My oil was reasonably clean for a break-in, or so I thought.



The new filter is Husky part # 7700180 (probably available at a BMW shop with a cross-reference). I imagine its same one used in G650GS and/or Sertao, but not positively certain at the time of this writing.



Do make sure you install this big open end into the housing first….its a tight mating with the interior flange.



Seems obvious, I know, but I've learned nothing is foolproof, because fools are so ingenious. No disrespect intended. Remember, this is the "New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread". A place where Stupid runs free & wild!

Recommend that you remove this O-ring from the housing, clean it carefully, and install onto the cover before reassembly.







That way, it doesn't get pushed off the edge or pinched when the cover is bolted back on. It could be a little tricky otherwise, and you wouldn't know until you found the leak….and discover the O-ring is ruined. And yeah, I whipped out the Pistolera for good measure. Don't worry, she wasn't watching…the garage was too cold today for Sweet Thang to hang-out.

Step 4: The most contentious part…..which oil?

I prefer whatever is "On Sale" in the JASO rating (that's the important part….JASO). Atwoods Farm & Ranch was recently running a clearance on this:



So of course, I loaded up. Good stuff. I never buy overpriced oil from a motorcycle shop. Auto Parts, Farm & Ranch, even Wally World are happy hunting grounds for me.

Once upon a time, a long time ago (but not so very long), I was the plant engineer at the lubricants complex for a major refinery. But maybe it was just a spooky dream…I'm less sure each passing year.



First time I've ever "stood up" to pour the oil into the engine. Hey, it was nice. I like it. But watch out for the plastic threaded dipstick cap. Mine is not easy to align the threads. Mine seems to get cross-threaded rather easily, but maybe its just me. I wish this cap were made of metal, instead of plastic.

The Service Manual calls for 10w-50 oil with a capacity of 2.0L (0.528 U.S. Gallons….0.44 Imp. Gall.) I believe that would mean 2,000 cc total.

I'm pretty sure I had to put in more than that to register on the dipstick. My brother was here visiting…helping take some photos. He's a soldier about to deploy to Afghanistan. So, I was a bit distracted by our conversation. I'm not absolutely certain how much I put in there. I think 2,000cc didn't even register on the dipstick. I'll have to measure it more carefully next time around. I'm assuming the dipstick measurement is trustworthy. Never had a dipstick on a bike for years. Its spoiled me already. You should be MORE CAREFUL than me. I'm pretty stupid.

The Manual says to add 1.5 liters (1,500 cc by my interpolation), then start the motor and let it run for about a minute. Add another 0.5 L (500 cc) and measure with the dipstick…adding oil until is between the Min - Max marks. The oil is to be measured with the bike level and the dip stick flush on top of the threads (not screwed down).

Keep in mind that oil expands when it gets hot. So, I recommend you stop adding oil when it first appears on the dipstick, then bring the engine up to normal operating temperature before topping off.

Voila….done! Happy wrenching to all.

HF

*******UPDATE******* 1-4-13

Correct oil amount is approximately 2,000 cc (2.0 Liter) per manual. It may not show on the dipstick initially (when cold). Bring the motor up to normal operating temperature before measuring level to determine whether or not any additional oil is needed to "top off". I explain more detail in another post further down (a few pages from here).
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HighFive screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 07:40 PM
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:56 AM   #34
Harder1
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Great post HF. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'll be doing the same drill this weekend after a few more miles.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:56 AM   #35
krussell
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Nice write up HF.

Disclaimer: Use the following information at your own risk, it should be right, but you never know.

The drain plug torque is 40nm. It's not in the massive torque table at the end, it's in the engine torque picture show, page F4.12. Lower left hand corner. To sanity check, I cross checked the F650 oil change for dummies page, it says 40nm too. http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/GS_Oil_Change_FAQ.htm

The filter cover bolts are 10nm.

The oil level check is the most complicated I've ever seen. The thing needs a sight glass! By the book instructions are:

1) start bike and run until cooling fan starts, then 3 minutes more, then stop bike.
2) remove dipstick, clean
2a) Bike should be level, as in vertical, not on side stand, and level front to back
3) place dispstick in hole, do not screw in
4) check for level between min and max

There is, according the the manual, a .25liter difference between min and max.

I found about an 8 oz difference between on the side stand vs. vertical. (on my strada, with the preload up from stock, it leans more than your Terra appears to.)
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:50 AM   #36
modeselector
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Oil Change

Good write up HighFive~put a patent on that coat hangar/funnel doohicky.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:31 PM   #37
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Thanks Hi5 - top post.

Good point re the filler cap you really need to be carefull you don't cross thread it - it needs to be positioned right to pick up the thread.

The whole operation is a bit finicky - but doable.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:37 PM   #38
BigDogAdventures
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davorallyfan View Post
Thanks Hi5 - top post.

Good point re the filler cap you really need to be carefull you don't cross thread it - it needs to be positioned right to pick up the thread.

The whole operation is a bit finicky - but doable.
That plug is the same finicky plug I remember on my TE610-------always felt like it was going in crooked--and you had to work at it to get it straight----but always got it done without stripping it.

I remember a buddy was helping me change the oil on my TE one night and he had trouble and said he wanted me to do it as he thought it was just going in crooked------same old plug I guess. Just don't force it ever.

BigDog
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:16 PM   #39
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Question engineering wonders

Boy that was simple would be very convenient on a road trip
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:22 PM   #40
Blaise W
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Sounds like one of our vendors should make up an aluminum oil cap with o-ring and dip stick.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:43 PM   #41
Ol'NumNuts
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Speaking of Vendors... I have been talking to one of the inmate vendors who makes a range of Farkels for the GS bikes and asking whether he knew if they fit the Terra?
Worth the (stupid) question, Right? Anyway, he wanted a Terra as a fit/test bed and me being in Brisbane, Oz and not having a Terra yet.... Well anyway if maybe you guys expressed an interest he might PM you... And see what happens...

No affiliation whatsoever- just trying to help/support a fellow inmate....
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:53 PM   #42
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I'm assuming th oil cap is plastic threads so that you don't have any chance of stripping the metal threads in the frame.

But, the plastic cap threads sure could be a better fit. It feels like trying to screw a fine thread onto a coarse thread.

Hhhmmm....I shall have to inspect them more closely.

HF
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:25 PM   #43
toowheels
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Nice pictorial HF!

A couple of tricks you may want to employ during oil changes:

If you don't have a new crush washer (forgot to get one) just flip it over. I've done it and it works fine. Although that Yamaha stuff sounds good!

You also may want to put a bit of oil on the o-ring before you put the cap back on. It's less likely to bind then.

It appears there are a few cross over parts from the F800GS/F700GS/F650 GS to the TR650s. I just confirmed today with HF (thanks!) that the side stand foot is the same as the F800 GS. I've only confirmed the Terra so far and I'm not sure about the Strada but it does appear the same. Since they haven't delivered here in BC yet I can't confirm until later this month unless someone knows for sure. Be careful it's not the same as the F700/F650 GS (depending on the foot design) as those are mirror imaged. I'm sending him one to confirm although he has an F8 so we already know it fits. I just happened to post this too:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=851314

That oil drain plug also appears to be the same as the twins. They now have an allen head in them as well though.

We are also contemplating making some other parts for the TR650s. Namely a top rack and a maybe a skid plate. If the process continues on I'll be fielding the opinions of the inmates as we usually do.

Thanks!

Dave
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:36 PM   #44
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High Five, what are the chances of fitting a bleed valve like used in brake cylinders in that top tube mount? Then you just have to push a long tube on the end and turn the nipple to drain.

You are supposed to lightly oil that O ring on the oil filter cover on the BMW.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:36 PM   #45
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Do you think the factory went a bit mad with the yellow dots?
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