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Old 12-28-2012, 05:26 AM   #32086
Pantah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Down-5Up View Post
Anybody adjust their headlight? I looked in the owners manual and there was nothing listed.
I thought I'd ask before taking the unit off (lazy). If I jab the front brake the lighting positions to the correct angle.
Hi beam is useless because it's all in the trees. It must be blinding traffic as it is.
There are two headlamp adjustment screws that adjust the beam vertically. They are on both sides of the headlamp mask. Clockwise raises the beam.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:27 AM   #32087
AZ TOM
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Originally Posted by Llamaha View Post
Am I the only one that thinks the WRR/X isn't underpowered ? I keep reading everywhere that it is but for me it has plenty of power. I've owned both the WRR and WRX, left them stock and only ever needed more power in sand or above 115km/h. Used to have an RM250, would never ever go back to it even if it does have 45hp at 100kg, I much prefer the WR.
Plenty of power for me, but then I drive a Kia & not a ( RAMM HEMI )
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:15 AM   #32088
jgiacobbe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Down-5Up View Post
Anybody adjust their headlight? I looked in the owners manual and there was nothing listed.
I thought I'd ask before taking the unit off (lazy). If I jab the front brake the lighting positions to the correct angle.
Hi beam is useless because it's all in the trees. It must be blinding traffic as it is.
First check that it is in the plastic piece correctly. Mine was pointing really high, it was because the top mount of the headlight is just a piece of plastic clipping into the headlight shroud. It got pushed back at the top and was pointing up. They are made to pop out of that mount to hopefully not break in an impact.

Remove the screws listed here as number 19. Then check that part 14 is firmly seated into the back of the headlight cowling. Part #15 is the headlight adjustment screws.
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:22 AM   #32089
bradrh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
The factory setting is probably right in the middle of the range. If I remember HF said to set it as soft as it would go, leaving only a couple threads above the lock nut. Normally you set the preload by setting your SAG. Tons of sag adjusting videos come up on a google search. HF's soft setting is just what he found worked best for his weight and riding style.......... that said, I run mine soft like HF rather than setting the sag. I weigh 180 with no gear.

You can loosen the top lock nut and move the adjustment nut with a long flat tip punch, and a hammer without taking the shock off the bike. They make the proper wrench to do the same thing .............. on the bike too I think........... I used a punch.
Any idea how much sag you have with that setting? Seems like it would be more than the normally recommended 25 or 35%
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:40 AM   #32090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradrh View Post
Any idea how much sag you have with that setting? Seems like it would be more than the normally recommended 25 or 35%
You are probably right that running the pre-load that soft could give you a greater amount of sag than recommended with a 180 lb rider, and now that I think about High Five's settings.... he suggested, because the stock spring is so stiff, to set the Pre-load all the way soft for a couple thousand miles until it is broken in, then tighten it up some after that.

When I first got the bike I set my sag by measuring. It seemed harsh, and the rear wheel hopped around alot. When I read HF's settings I thought I'd give it a try. I set the spring soft, jacked the rebound clicker to the max, and set the compression to what ever he suggested (I forget what that was, but I have it written down somewhere) The bike felt more planted, and wasn't as harsh on the rear. The little extra sag helped with my shorter legs too. I realize if I rode it like an MX bike the extra sag would cause other problems......... but I don't. I did tighten the pre-load a little, about half way thru the summer, but I just looked, and there are maybe 3 threads showing above the lock nut.
In the perfect world I'd cough up the $750 to get the suspension valved and re-sprung to make it perfect for me, but it's been working for me and my slow.... old..... style of riding. I remember early in this thread several people riding with this setup, and liking it.

I also set the fork clickers way soft on both rebound and compression per HF. They still felt harsh to me, and I almost never used more than half of their travel (I could look at the dust line on the forks when I would stop for a break) I lowered the fork oil by 3/4 of an inch in both legs and it made them much more comfortable for me.

I'm not a total wuss and, and have ridden some plenty rough terrain in Colorado with this setup. I'm confident, and comfortable when I ride with it the way it is.

I am curious now............ and will measure the sag the way it is and report back.

KansasBob screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 04:55 PM
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:46 AM   #32091
PatrickInVA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgiacobbe View Post
First check that it is in the plastic piece correctly. Mine was pointing really high, it was because the top mount of the headlight is just a piece of plastic clipping into the headlight shroud. It got pushed back at the top and was pointing up. They are made to pop out of that mount to hopefully not break in an impact.

Remove the screws listed here as number 19. Then check that part 14 is firmly seated into the back of the headlight cowling. Part #15 is the headlight adjustment screws.
My headlight was also pointing at the sky... And randomly flopping up and down. Turns out I was missing Part #14. Not sure if the previous owner removed it or lost it or what the deal was. But a couple of bucks at the dealer and 5 minutes of my time and it was all better.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:55 AM   #32092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
You are probably right that running the pre-load that soft could give you a greater amount of sag than recommended with a 180 lb rider, and now that I think about High Five's settings.... .
High Five has been mentioned a few times. I just recently got my 09 wr and the previous owner was much bigger (I am 150lbs) though I don't think it is set up well for him either so I'd like to set the suspension up better for me. Was HF's settings for someone near my weight and where are his settings at? Buried in this thread? At some point later I'll work on tuning it more for me but if there is some close settings somewhere that would be a good start for me.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:25 AM   #32093
AZ TOM
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I fought the suspension when I first got my WRR. Went to a softer shock spring & softer fork springs. I weigh about 180 plus gear. It made the bike horrendous Almost unridable, It handled so bad I was going to sell it. Decided to give it another try, thank God & still have & love it. I ended up with the stock shock spring, preload backed off to where when you look at the adjusters at the top of the shock you can maybe see 2 threads above the collars. I also backed off the rebound adjuster all the way & turned the compression damper out all the way, turn it counter clockwise. The forks, stock springs 15 oz Synthetic ATF each leg, rebound off & compression at the bottom 3 clicks in clockwise from all the way out. Everyone's riding style & ability & prefered terrain is different, so just some things to try. While I know it could be better if I spend the bucks it works well as is in soft sand, rocky trails & fire roads. Very stabile.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:43 AM   #32094
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tips for swapping out handlebar clamps

Does anyone have any tips for getting the nuts off the bottom of the handlebar clamps? I'm swapping the stock set for an oversize set and it seems a little tricky.

I saw in a video that basher posted about some tips for the right side but I'm having issues with the easier left side. It is a really tight fit.

It seems like it would be a lot easier if I took off the triple clamp and then took off each handlebar clamp. This way when I put the new ones on I could properly torque the nuts.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? To remove the triple clamp I just remove the pinch bolts and then the steering stem nut?
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:59 AM   #32095
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
Does anyone have any tips for getting the nuts off the bottom of the handlebar clamps? I'm swapping the stock set for an oversize set and it seems a little tricky.

I saw in a video that basher posted about some tips for the right side but I'm having issues with the easier left side. It is a really tight fit.

It seems like it would be a lot easier if I took off the triple clamp and then took off each handlebar clamp. This way when I put the new ones on I could properly torque the nuts.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? To remove the triple clamp I just remove the pinch bolts and then the steering stem nut?
That's how I did mine when I had to replace the ignition. It really is not that hard. I hung my bars from the overhead, took off the headlight shroud and then all the stuff hanging on the tree. Came right off.

Now I did mine like that because of the ignition and never checked if it could be done another way. Maybe a wobble socket would work.??
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:57 PM   #32096
MeefZah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
It seems like it would be a lot easier if I took off the triple clamp and then took off each handlebar clamp. This way when I put the new ones on I could properly torque the nuts.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't do this? To remove the triple clamp I just remove the pinch bolts and then the steering stem nut?
That's how I did it.

I actually found one of the 17mm nuts on the back side was loose when I did mine, despite them being lock nuts.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:10 PM   #32097
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
High Five has been mentioned a few times. I just recently got my 09 wr and the previous owner was much bigger (I am 150lbs) though I don't think it is set up well for him either so I'd like to set the suspension up better for me. Was HF's settings for someone near my weight and where are his settings at? Buried in this thread? At some point later I'll work on tuning it more for me but if there is some close settings somewhere that would be a good start for me.
As I remember........... the consensus was that the bike is sprung stiff for the average rider and the rear shock didn't have near enough rebound damping........ even when maxed out. For a light rider like yourself, the lack of rebound damping, and stiff spring makes the problem even worse. The rear wheel hops up in the air when it bounces of rocks, ledges, and roots......... ect. The settings were to try and keep the rear wheel on the ground with the stock suspension. In other words....... the best you can get with what you got. The right spring for your weight and a re-valved rear shock with more rebound damping is what you "Need" but, if that isn't in the cards right away it's a good compromise especially for someone your weight.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:49 PM   #32098
krussell
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Rear rack with Wolfman brackets?

I'm trying to decide what sort of rear rack to put on my WRR. While the billet racks look nice, I'm concerned about the small mounting area. I really like the mounting approach of the TCI Borrego, seems much more distributed/robust. At some point, in addition to the rear rack, I think I'm going to add a Wolfman saddlebag setup with racks. I have several questions for folks who have used any of these.

1) Anyone use a billet rack and had it break the mount point?
2) Anyone use a TCI Borrego AND the wolfman racks?

My plan is to get the Borrego with a hard case bracket and use a small pelican box for around town. Then for longer trips ditch the top case and use a wolfman saddlebag setup along with a dry bag across the top.

Another option would be a Giant loop setup instead of the wolfman, which eliminates any rack conflict, I think.

Any suggestions or experience would be appreciated.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:05 PM   #32099
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How about this one?

I spotted this one on Ebay and it looks like one I put on my wife's XT225. I like that it mounts to more than just the top four bolt on the subframe and is wider in the rear by a bunch. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251071443820...84.m1423.l2649

I'm not too sure I like the bolts sticking out under the rear splash portion of the fender but I'm thinking I could "fix" that. That said I haven't seen it in person yet so YMMV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krussell View Post
I'm trying to decide what sort of rear rack to put on my WRR. While the billet racks look nice, I'm concerned about the small mounting area. I really like the mounting approach of the TCI Borrego, seems much more distributed/robust. At some point, in addition to the rear rack, I think I'm going to add a Wolfman saddlebag setup with racks. I have several questions for folks who have used any of these.

1) Anyone use a billet rack and had it break the mount point?
2) Anyone use a TCI Borrego AND the wolfman racks?

My plan is to get the Borrego with a hard case bracket and use a small pelican box for around town. Then for longer trips ditch the top case and use a wolfman saddlebag setup along with a dry bag across the top.

Another option would be a Giant loop setup instead of the wolfman, which eliminates any rack conflict, I think.

Any suggestions or experience would be appreciated.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:16 PM   #32100
scoprire
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Quote:
While the billet racks look nice, I'm concerned about the small mounting area.
The billet racks are nice. While it's more work, don't rule out making your own mounting for it. I used AL stock and bent it to use some mounting points on the underside of the tail. Then mounted he rack to the AL bar. It's strong enough you can lift the rear of the bike w/ it; it's also a good point to attach straps if you get the bike buried and have to drag it out.

Not the best pic, but you get the idea.

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