XRL owners sign in.

[fritzcoinc]

Originally Posted by mcma111

You may have to remove the mid pipe bolt to have enough movement for the clutch cover to come off. Remove the top banjo bolt and the pipe will be plenty loose. Be sure to keep track of the copper crush washers and which banjo bolt goes where. IIRC the black banjo bolt is on the bottom. It has a larger hole/passageway.

+1
You need to remove the small bolt that holds the oil pipe to the head also.
Leave the mid pipe bolt and pull the cover off about 1/2" to get the room to remove the lower banjo bolt completely from under the exhaust.
Assemble in reverse of dissasembly.
Remove the brake lever to have clear access, clean and grease the petal shaft upon re-assembly.

I am sure you have read about the O ring on the oil tube and the crank end seal.

[ThumpnRed]

Pictures are always easier...

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Memnok

I think I figured it out. I was not sure which relay to use, but it looks like I can use a 4 pin single pole.

That looks like it will work.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

Pictures are always easier...

That's a beautiful diagram, Red.

I found this heavy-duty, electronic flasher at NAPA; it only costs $9.49.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...D12_0335211065



Spud

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by Schultz!

If i was in your shoes I would pick up the Dremel 3000, I have 2 4000s that I have had both repaired twice for burning out the speed controls for a total of 4 failures. The 3000 might get a bit hot running at low rpm or a large flap wheel but keeps asking me to punish it more with out a single issue.

Thanks! I'll have a look at the 3000. That was one of the reasons I didn't bite the bullet yet. I had read some not so good reviews on the 4000.

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Thanks for the reply, Red. If I may ask, how much did the heavy-duty, electronic flasher cost? I found one at AutoZone which costs $12.99.



I'm thinking of buying this DPDT Center Off (DPCO) switch from Radio Shack for $3.69.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062518



I would replace the Tusk SPDT switch with the DPCO switch from Radio Shack, and wire it in the following manner, as shown in the following thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850635



The grip heaters would be wired in series for the "low" setting, which would double the resistance. Since I = E/R, if the resistance doubles as the voltage remains at 12V, the current should be reduced to half. Have I made a mistake in my calculations? I realize the "high" circuit is wired in parallel.

Spud

Here is the one I got...


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=69839_0_0_

I also have one of those DPCO switches. Hmmm...

I'm in the middle of installing them and am having an issue with the way I ran the wiring. I have a PM to ThumpnRed. Ah! I've got mail!

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I plan to rethink the dash this winter. I want to incorporate a cigarette lighter power outlet and get my indicator lights back in play.

Thanks for the pics! There isn't much room behind the light is there?

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I also have a 3000. I run a flex-shaft attachment on mine. I think it makes fine detail work easier.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...spx?pid=225-01

That would be a necessity.

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by mcma111

Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???

We'll eventually wear you down.

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

Pictures are always easier...

Nice work Thumpnred!
OK, I just got mine wired up just like you have on the diagram.
The issue I have is...the flasher clicks when the switch is on the "lo" setting and is quiet on the "hi" setting. Shouldn't it be the reverse of what's happening?
Why is that?

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

...I also have one of those DPCO switches. Hmmm...

Don't do it. I analyzed the circuits. The DPCO switch circuit consumes about 4.42 watts per grip on the low setting, which is about 1/2 the heat generated by the Tusk setup on low heat, and 1/4 the heat generated by the high setting. Therefore, I won't be using the DPCO switch. I am going to install an electronic relay.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...D12_0335211065

The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me.

Spud

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

...The issue I have is...the flasher clicks when the switch is on the "lo" setting and is quiet on the "hi" setting. Shouldn't it be the reverse of what's happening?
Why is that?

You got it right. The flasher sends power about half the time to the grip heaters when the switch is on the "low" setting. On the "high" setting, the wiring bypasses the flasher and sends full power to the grip heaters.

Spud

[Memnok]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

Nice work Thumpnred!

I second that!!! That is a tremendous help.

Originally Posted by bwalsh

OK, I just got mine wired up just like you have on the diagram.
The issue I have is...the flasher clicks when the switch is on the "lo" setting and is quiet on the "hi" setting. Shouldn't it be the reverse of what's happening?
Why is that?

On high, the grips are getting full power and the blinker relay is not in the circuit. On low power the blinker is in the circuit turning the power on and off to reduce the amount of time the grips are receiving power.

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Don't do it.

Thanks! I saw that in your earlier post, right after I posted saying I had one. I won't do it.

The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me.

Spud

Yeah, I know what you mean regarding the size...any size is too big for the cockpit on an XR. You have to have a good imagination to find mounting spots.
I thought you had bolted the switch. I forgot to look when you posted that pic earlier.

[Memnok]

Actually, Thumpnred, looking at your diagram, shouldn't the blinker relay be on the other side of the switch? Between the low pole and the blue line?

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Memnok

Actually, Thumpnred, looking at your diagram, shouldn't the blinker relay be on the other side of the switch?

Red got it right. When the top of the switch rotates to one side, the contacts in the body of the switch connect on the opposite side.

Spud

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by Memnok

I second that!!! That is a tremendous help.



On high, the grips are getting full power and the blinker relay is not in the circuit. On low power the blinker is in the circuit turning the power on and off to reduce the amount of time the grips are receiving power.

I told ThumpnRed I was electrically illiterate. I was right!
So the resistor/flasher is for the low setting? If so then why is it on the wire that goes to the "hi" side of the switch? That's what is throwing me for a loop.

Thanks Guys! I couldn't have re-engineered these grip heaters without you!

Anyway...I got heated grips!!!

[KyoXR]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost?

Spud

I bought one of those for my bicycle to put turn signals on it to "dumb it down" for the masses around me, the two prong relay cost $7.99 at the time, the closest I could find now online is: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...0381/C0335.oap