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Old 12-17-2012, 01:42 PM   #1606
1zero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsamp86 View Post
Hi all, anyone with a little more experience than me got any tips? Ive removed a restrictor weld in my exhaust header, changes for an aftermarket can and have been fiddling to get the fueling right but cant get it just so.

Im up from a #115 main to a #137.5 which seems to give lovely full throttle pull when riding and a clean looking sparkplug, ive moved the needle clip down one position to make the mid richer which again seems to ride nice with a clean plug and the idle circuit fuel screw is out 2.5t from 2.25t (seems to make no difference other than to slightly easier starting.

The issue I have is that while the bike runs great, if you snap to anything over 1/3 throttle from idle (like getting away from a junction) the engine stalls. It will do this at all positions above 1/3rd throttle and is very irritating

So the question is what else can I try? Ive got a few more main jets in 1/2 sizes coming as my next down was a 130 & it ran worse on full throttle, next up is a 142.5 and have yet to try as im waiting for a new throttle cable set. I have tried restricting the inlet hole in the airbox and this makes no difference to these 'snap stalls' & going the other way and adding a 2nd 35mm hole has also made no difference (although thats part of the reason im now going to try bigger on the main again!

Finally I have tried shimming the needle half a clip position richer and leaner in each direction also with no joy and have tried the pilot fuel screw from 1.5t out to 2.75t out and it really makes no difference other than to ease of starting.

Its and old Mikuni TM28 flatslide carb on my '98 DR250XC Djebel by the way :)
Hi from NZ, sounds to me you will now be a expert on removing and stripping a TM28 carb don't you just love the position of the fuel screw
Now i'm no 'expert' at all, but it does sound like a carb problem, looks like your jetting is OK, std fuel screw setting is 1.25 turns out, modified is roughly 1.5 to 1.75 out, generally if you have to go more than 2 turns out to get smooth running it can mean your pilot screw is too small.
Have you stripped and compressed air blowen the carb out completely? and is the float height correct?
Is the stalling problem when bike is being ridden and/or just standing still in neutral with no loading?

Cheers.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:35 PM   #1607
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this could work well for a more comfortable seat as seat concepts does not offer one.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=650928
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:23 AM   #1608
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i was thinking about try the seat concepts seat for a dr350 its very close
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:53 AM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1zero View Post
Hi from NZ, sounds to me you will now be a expert on removing and stripping a TM28 carb don't you just love the position of the fuel screw
Now i'm no 'expert' at all, but it does sound like a carb problem, looks like your jetting is OK, std fuel screw setting is 1.25 turns out, modified is roughly 1.5 to 1.75 out, generally if you have to go more than 2 turns out to get smooth running it can mean your pilot screw is too small.
Have you stripped and compressed air blowen the carb out completely? and is the float height correct?
Is the stalling problem when bike is being ridden and/or just standing still in neutral with no loading?

Cheers.

I have stripped and cleaned the carb with carb cleaner set the float and rebuilt. FIXED!!! It seemed that the pump plunger mech was stuck in the float bowl and was not 'squirting' when you roll on the throttle hense the sudden lean condition & stall :) New parts coming from the USA to do a mini rebuild and for reference most of the gaskets are easier to find if you search for the TM33 online.

Now...With all that carb on and carb off action my ever fraying throttle cable has just about had it! Does anyone know what one fits the DR250XC Djebel? I bought a DR350 one in hope of it being the same and it is about 3'' too long so looks like my week off is not going to be as mud filled as i hoped. Unless of course there is a way to use my old cable guides and put new 'ends' on the new cable if i cut it down? hmmm...... hoping a local shop will have http://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Co...EPAIR_KIT.html or simalar in stock :)

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Old 12-21-2012, 01:19 PM   #1610
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drz250 has the same cable as a djebel
i thought the dr350r used a cable that would work , the throttle tube is the same as is the carb less the 28 to 33
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:44 PM   #1611
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Finally picked up the 2001 DRZ-250 and installing Trail Tech Endurance II speedometer and horn this weekend as OEM odometer cable was broken and I wanted something to record speed and use. Will be adding rear hydraulic break switch and new horn/light switch as well.

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Old 12-22-2012, 05:07 PM   #1612
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Trail Tech Endurance II install

Fairly straight forward instructions call for the removal of a bolt on the rotor and to replace it with one of the 3 magnet bolts that were included in the package. I went ahead and left the zip tie on the sensor because I'm not sure if the double sided tape will hold for the long run. Followed the break line up and used zip ties to secure the line.

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With the old Odometer removed, it was straight forward on attaching the handle bar clamp and the mounting bracket. I then just connected the wires and put the light assembly back on. Programming is easy and it works like a champ. I chose not to wire it to my system power and am just operating off the battery in the unit.

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Old 12-23-2012, 12:43 AM   #1613
xsamp86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
drz250 has the same cable as a djebel
i thought the dr350r used a cable that would work , the throttle tube is the same as is the carb less the 28 to 33
Awesome! That will definitely help me and other owners

I went down the same thought process and have ended up butchering the dr350 cables to fit by cutting down the cables and using univeral 6mm cable ends to suit. Strange though, carbs are almost identical as are the bikes oh well....Its a miserable wet day today in the UK so im off to the lanes to see whats flooded!
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:29 PM   #1614
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And here is a very small clip of that tinkering paying off as my mate struggles to start his overheated crf450 (smug smiley)

This is near the 5ways lanes in mapledurwell, Basingstoke, Hampshire, south England

Jetting on the TM28 with modified airbox & derestricted stock exhaust is #140 main, needle lifted one clip position richer, #47.5 idle jet and pilot screw out 2.5 turns (this is experimental & seems to give easiest starting but will update :) )

http://youtu.be/2s9za47_JD4

Sorry it's only a short vid at uninspiring speeds- I didn't know I was being filmed!
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:30 PM   #1615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter1981 View Post
Fairly straight forward instructions call for the removal of a bolt on the rotor and to replace it with one of the 3 magnet bolts that were included in the package. I went ahead and left the zip tie on the sensor because I'm not sure if the double sided tape will hold for the long run. Followed the break line up and used zip ties to secure the line.

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With the old Odometer removed, it was straight forward on attaching the handle bar clamp and the mounting bracket. I then just connected the wires and put the light assembly back on. Programming is easy and it works like a champ. I chose not to wire it to my system power and am just operating off the battery in the unit.

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looking good,

your going to want a headlight too , the 35w stock light works ok but a 60/55 is a whole new world.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:27 AM   #1616
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looking good,

your going to want a headlight too , the 35w stock light works ok but a 60/55 is a whole new world.


OR, you can add a 36W LED light bar - and heeya








BTW - the far away fence is 30mtrs.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:38 AM   #1617
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O hell ya

more info , if you please
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:19 AM   #1618
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Hey guys, I sold my DR-Z250 earlier this summer, since it was my wife's bike and we just had our first child in July (so no riding for the wife for a few years). Anyways, I was doing some Holiday cleaning and found some parts some of you may be interested in. Please PM me if you want to buy anything. Thanks!

All Balls Rear Wheel Bearings, Seals, and Spacer Kit. $35 shipped in the CONUS for both together (you should always replace the spacers when installing new bearings).



Suzuki DR-Z250 Service Manual. In good shape. $45 shipped in the CONUS.


Brand new Suzuki Main Jet (size #140) and Pilot Jets (size #40). This is for the Mikuni TM-28 pumper carb (NOT the CV carb). I have one main jets and 3 pilot jets. For reference, the stock main jet is a 127.5, and the stock pilot is a 37.5. Price is $5 each, shipped in a standard stamped envelope by USPS.


Used Stock Trip Meter and Cable. The trip meter is in decent shape. The cable has a small hole in the outer sleeve, probably from rubbing. The cable does not include the pickup that attaches to the axle/hub. I think both the meter and cable work, but I don't know for certain because I took them off as soon as I purchased the bike. $35 shipped in the CONUS.
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #1619
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O hell ya

more info , if you please

Mate, this setup is awesome in the pitch black!

First thing to do is buy the LED Light Bar, either a 36W or you may be able to run a 48W off the stator of the DRZ without problems - that would be worthwhile checking into.
This is the same type as mine - http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-5-36W-Off-...0ef90c&vxp=mtr

The light bars are on Ebay etc etc, they are 12-30v dc operated so very flexible with supply voltage, I haven't bothered with a relay in the system as it doesn't draw any more volts/current than standard 35W light bulb.

Make your own sturdy alloy bracket and mount how you like, best is to keep it well in front of you as they produce a floodlight and does shine up in your helmet/face which is very distracting.

I used a mains voltage 3-way switch, really it doesn't matter if its 12V/24V etc, middle position is all lights off, bottom is std headlight only running, top position is Light Bar only.
This way you can only have 1x light at a time running.
The main reason for the connector block is to easily dismount the light bar for when not in use, which is most of the time and the 2x light bar bolts are easily unscrewed too - a 3 min total mount up time. The alloy bracket I leave permanently on the bike - extra bush basher !
The wiring is fairly straight forward I won't go into it as it will end up as a essay

Good luck, any other questions just ask.




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Old 12-30-2012, 02:35 PM   #1620
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a flood and a spot would be a good rally set up and still use less volts than my current light

what sort of reflective range do you have?
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