the DR650 thread

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy

In my opinion, anyone who would buy a new DR650 is either very mechanically ignorant, desperate, or simply not very smart. I know that statement might seem kinda harsh, but you have to realize if you could find a nice 1996 DR650 somewhere, it would be essentially the same motorcycle as a 2012 DR650.

A bit harsh I'd say.
There are plenty of good reasons to buy new. Sure, there are good deals around on used DR's if you're patient ... and lucky. They are reliable bikes for the most part ... but they do have one or two SHOW STOPPER issues.

Main advantage of buying NEW is the warranty ... and the ability to buy an Extended Warranty up to 5 years. This covers things like 3rd gear failures.
Rare as they are ... if it happens in 5 years ... you get a NEW motor.
That's a lot of riding.

Next is a zero interest loan with a LOW monthly payment. This just works for some folks.

But for the OP, "New" may not be his best choice. Impossible to know if he'll even like the DR650. If you buy NEW, add a warranty, add $1000 in extras, then decide you don't like the bike ... well when you go to sell it off you'll take a major hit.

What the OP needs to know is that a showroom stock DR650 is no where near what a modified DR650 can be. So whatever DR you get ... to get the best out of it plan to do some modifications and adding some extras. There are THOUSANDS of posts here detailing what those extras are ... and what they do for you. Good luck! My Advice: TEST RIDE TEST RIDE
TEST RIDE!!!

[acesandeights]

Originally Posted by Carl Childers

Thanks all for your replies, your information will help me decide. I ride about 90% off road in high desert and mountain terrain even when I take trips I keep pavement to a bare minimum.

If that's the case, I'd got with cartridge emulators over intimators.

[chethro]

Well I put on a D606 on the front of my bike today using the Ziptie method. I thought everything went great until I started on the rear (the front is back on the bike) and I notice that the tube stem has a beveled washer and nut on the inside of the rim and a nut on the outside. The new tubes I put in only came with one nut and the beveled washer, so I used the beveled washer on the inside of the rim and the nut on the outside. No nut on the inside.


Is this a problem or should I just wait until I wear out the front to install a nut on the inside of the rim? Or should I go ahead and pull the front and make it right?

[Ren20]

regarding the IMS tank earlier.

It's confirmed indeed it was an IMS tank. The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

I've done paypal, but never done cashier check before. Plus he gave me an po box address. to be honest, I am skeptical now as he was when I called him stating I am from a different state.

This deal probably save me about 70 dollars than buying new from justgastank. Worth taking the chance?

I still like the acerbis tank better.

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by Ren20

regarding the IMS tank earlier.

It's confirmed indeed it was an IMS tank. The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

I've done paypal, but never done cashier check before. Plus he gave me an po box address. to be honest, I am skeptical now as he was when I called him stating I am from a different state.

This deal probably save me about 70 dollars than buying new from justgastank. Worth taking the chance?

I still like the acerbis tank better.

even if it was exactly what i wanted, i would never do anything other than a paypal or credit card payment for an on-line transaction, unless it was someone i knew/trusted... only time i have ever been burned on internet transactions was when i paid cash.

in this case, what's $70, especially if it's not what you really want? that's about $1.35/week for a year...

doug s.

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by trailrider383

Majority off road, definitely the emulators. I tried both.

I'm in the "Majority off road, definitely the Intiminators. I tried both." camp.

I came into off road via road riding and like the front to be firmer and higher than traditional off road suspension.

I don't like brake dive.

[barko1]

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

4 - Right now, I just followed the instructions and wired the things straight into my battery. This does mean that any joker can come by in the parking lot, push the ON button, and kill my battery. It also means that I have to be vigilant about turning them off when I turn off the bike. Does anyone else run heated grips off that switched ignition pair that resides under our headlight shrouds? They have a 5A inline fuse, and I don't think the wattage was actually all that high.

Definitely you need a relay that is switched by a wire that is only one when the key is turned on, unless you want to develop your bump starting techniques
. : I did it on several bikes so it must be simply. Just go to any auto parts store and get a generic horn or lights relay, should have a diagram on it that tells you which terminal connects to what, power in, switch, ground, etc. I usually just use a wire going to the tail light, and be sure there is a fuse into the system. Oops, I see you have a fuse. I usually use the cheapo glue on elements that cost about $30 but this install, on a Guzzi, I used Bikemaster, that I found for $45 and were simple to install with a 5 level controller.

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Weldman

it's a Rossi .22 takedown carbine that shoots shorts, longs, and long rifle. It fits easily into a standard paintball gun case as you see in the pic. Also easily fits incognito into a standard duffel, knapsack etc. One of my favorite rifles to shoot besides its extreme portability.

Sweet little gun!

[Echo1]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Main advantage of buying NEW is the warranty ... and the ability to buy an Extended Warranty up to 5 years. This covers things like 3rd gear failures.
Rare as they are ... if it happens in 5 years ... you get a NEW motor.

This is logical but I'm not sure it's true. The warranty probably only covers the cost to repair up to the value of the bike.

A couple years ago a DR owner posted (on Thumpertalk) his bike blew 3rd gear and apparently did a lot of damage. His bike was still under the factory warranty but the cost to repair exceeded the bike value, so they were going to total it. The owner was pissed because he financed the bike and owed more than book value. Eventually the thread disappeared so Suzuki must have provided a satisfactory solution.

[wee-twin]

Originally Posted by planemanx15

Santa brought me a Ruger 10/22 for Christmas. I would like to take it upstate, NY to a friends property to shoot/hunt, and do this on my dr. The problem is, I live in NY, and have to travel through NYC to get there. I can't keep the gun visible without attracting attention. The alternative I'm thinking of is strapping a large duffel bag to the rear rack, and removing the stock from the gun to make it smaller. IIRC the stock is 30" long.

thanks in advance...

Take a look at lacrosse stick cases. I planed on buying on using a blue one. Never saw a blue rifle case so it might go unnoticed. Due to the recent bad publicity in the norhteast, i have decided against that. I recently found that Ruger makes a 10/22 takedown. Comes in a case and does not look like a firearm.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by amk

I cannot pinpoint you to the exact cause of the problem, but the theory of problem solving is simple enough. DR does not have a gas pump, i.e. gas flows free to the carb by its weight and atmospheric pressure.
So the first one is to make sure the carb's inlet is below the petcock. The last usually has a pipe of 5 cm. height inside the tank, so everything under the the pipe is stayed there forever and cannot be used.
Second, make sure the gas inside is under the atmospheric pressure, the breather is not blocked etc. Just take the gas cap off and depress start button again.
Third, remove all barriers between tank and carb's inlet, i.e. filters, here I am not sure, but there probably is a small oem one right in the tank petcock or in the carb. Take the petcock out, open it, disconnect the hose from inlet and blow into petcock, should be no resistance to the air flow.
It is one of three reasons, which one is yours? It actually may be all 3 of them simultaneously.

Originally Posted by Kommando

Not quite right. The DR and other carbed bikes are primarily fed by gravity. There's a bit of suction/siphon going on too, but the primary method of getting gas into the carb from the tank is by gravity feed. As long as there is no kink or blockage in the line, you basically just want the fuel to NOT have to flow uphill to get into the carb. Suction will overcome a little bit, but it can also allow air-bubbles to get into the line and affect fuel flow. The flow from my petcock to my carb is all either down or sideways. There is no uphill flow. As long as my tank is venting ok, I have no flow issues. I can run my tank pretty dry. Route your fuel lines so that there is NO uphill flow. If you can't do that, you may want to install a fuelpump.

Up hill is OK as long as its to the carb or a fuel tap. This gives any air the chance to escape. If its just a loop/siphon in the fuel line, then that when its a problem.

I got rid of the internal filters from the taps, and the one to the carb. I still have a servicable in line filter, which is also positioned vertically to no air traps in it either.



Having a swivelling inlet on the FCR helps for sure too.

On the BST, I cut off the original pipe and threaded in a straight fitting. When I tried to turn it, I thought it might break the carb.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by canoli

Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy

6 oclock would be even better, then there is no fuel line above the bottom of the tank or the float bowel.

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by chethro

Well I put on a D606 on the front of my bike today using the Ziptie method. I thought everything went great until I started on the rear (the front is back on the bike) and I notice that the tube stem has a beveled washer and nut on the inside of the rim and a nut on the outside. The new tubes I put in only came with one nut and the beveled washer, so I used the beveled washer on the inside of the rim and the nut on the outside. No nut on the inside.


Is this a problem or should I just wait until I wear out the front to install a nut on the inside of the rim? Or should I go ahead and pull the front and make it right?

I always remove the inner nut, it does nothing otehr than deform the tube when inflated.

Ride it.

[TrophyHunter]

Originally Posted by Ren20

regarding the IMS tank earlier.

The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

Worth taking the chance?

Absolutely NOT. But I'm cynical from working financial crimes for the past 12 years. Besides, go buy what you really want. 10 years from now, you're not going to slap yourself on the back over saving a few bucks. But you will look at pics - or your bike - with the "that's exactly how I wanted it" satisfaction grin.

[acesandeights]

I got new bars and everything else seems to go on, fit fine except the choke lever. The bars are checkered on the left side and the inner diameter of the choke lever seems smaller than the outer diameter of the bars and won't go on. I could dremel it but seems it should just go on like on the stock bars. This couldn't have been an issue for everyone, right? Or, what did you do? They are Fly Aero tapered bars from Procycle by the way.

BTW, it slides right over the other side (the wrong side). Are the bars soft enough I can sand the checkered part on the left?