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Old 12-29-2012, 12:20 PM   #2626
DaniGAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knobster View Post
The rear mount matches up on my DG O-series. I took it off my KLR. The KLX header flange is much larger than the DG mid-pipe. I think I have it whipped. I'm using a emgo muffler reducer. I've bolted it up, but not yet installed as I'm doing the DRZ shock swap. I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing for a support, but it won't be too hard to fab a clamp.

Cheers'
Tom.
So I understand that a KLR muffler can be used with a KLX header, correct? (direct bolt-in)
Thanks!
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:42 AM   #2627
dtdynamics
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i got a cheap fazer 1000 aftermarket carbon can co. muffler and got a local exhaust repair to make a link pipe for it.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:19 PM   #2628
Knobster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaniGAS View Post
So I understand that a KLR muffler can be used with a KLX header, correct? (direct bolt-in)
Thanks!
Ummmm?... No. The KLX C model header is much larger at the point where the mid-pipe attaches to it.
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Knobster screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 06:29 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:57 PM   #2629
El Toad Man
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Fitting an R shock to a C

Hi everyone, I've been working on fitting a rear shock from a 1996 KLX650 kickstart model to my 93 KLX650C and I though I'd share what I found:

R shock top
C shock below

The R shock has the remote reservoir, and adjustable rebound & compression damping. The R is a little shorter, and the spring has a slightly larger outer diameter.

The R model linkage and dogbones will bolt in but have different geometry and give a higher ride height, even with the shorter R shock.

R dogbones are 115mm
C dogbones are 124mm. Shorter dogbones give a higher ride height.

Mechanically, everything will bolt together so you can mix and match.

C shock & linkages. Notice the R linkage above is more of a right angle than the C linkage below.


The stock C toolbox and bracket have to be removed


The R shock bolts in without any mechanical issues. It fits with the C airbox. I did create a bracket underneath to support the weight of the airbox, as the front left bracket is now gone


The biggest issue is the electrical wiring is routed where the remote reservoir goes, some hours later I neatened up the wiring.


I ended up using the R shock, the R linkage but with the C dogbones.
At full extension, the suspension sits about 20mm higher than a stock C, just enough so my workstand wont lift the rear wheel off the ground! The R dogbones lifted it too high.


The result?


The '93 C shock is a pogo stick. The R shock is a huge improvement in both quality and the fact that it is adjustable. Much better and well worth the effort!
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El Toad Man screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 07:08 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:02 PM   #2630
Fogo72
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Thanks for taking the time to post the pics.

Good work. Check out my thread on the Australian site, Team KLX home page.

Cheers Fogo.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:45 AM   #2631
DaniGAS
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Originally Posted by Knobster View Post
Ummmm?... No. The KLX C model header is much larger at the point where the mid-pipe attaches to it.
Ohhhhhhh
Thanks!
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:15 AM   #2632
Knobster
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Hey guy's,
Did any one use the oem (Kaw) exhaust gasket when attaching your after market exhaust to the header?.

Thanks,
Tom.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:39 PM   #2633
Fogo72
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Hey Boys, I have made a new video of the Longest day ride I went on, If you want to see a KLX650 at full noise, send me a PM and I will send you the link to the private video page. worth a look if your a KLX fan.

OK a sneek peek, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A6pgnus4bw

Cheers Fogo.

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Old 01-15-2013, 07:26 AM   #2634
Matje
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Honda CR500 rear shock on KLX 650C

We discussed earlier my plans for another rear shock.
I finished my project and put all information together now.

Honda CR500 rear shock on KLX 650C
The rear suspension on my KLC 650C of 1993 was way too soft. I am not sure if that is typical for this bike or because of wear, but many other owners are complaining.
With the help of information on several internet forums I achieved a big improvement on shock behaviour with a modified shock from a Honda CR 500. Without modifying the geometry (height) and for the very moderate cost of about 100 Euro’s.
Here is the story in detail:

What happened before:
Bought this bike in spring 2011 mainly for light off road riding. Because I am rather short (170 cm), I first lowered the seat height by changing the length of the dogbones. The tyre ruined the mudflap and soon also the airbox. Then I learnt to ride without “the feet on the ground”, and went back to the standard dogbones. I am certainly not an extreme rider, but still rode the shock regularly on the end stopper. Used up two shocks in one year. They were not new, so maybe both were already defective when I started with. But I already solved several other problems of the bike and wanted to keep on riding it. Also to mention that on longer trips I want to take camping gear (total luggage is then about 25 -30 kg). So I needed a better and adjustable shock.

The donorshock:
On the forums were several stories about using a shock from a Suzuki DRZ 400 or Husqvarna TE 610. Also the shock of a KLX 650R is used. Here in Western Europe I could not find any of these for a reasonable price. In the German forum were reports about the shock from a Honda CR 500. I bought one for 50 euro to give it a try. I do not know the exact building year. I guess it is 1995. Just like the other types, this shock has the desired fully adjustable up- and down damping and it almost fits in the KLX 650C. It has even a third adjustment ring for high speed compression damping. See photo’s.

The “only” deviations are the following:
· Spring is too soft
· Lenght is 15 mm too much
· Stroke is 30 mm too long (or 40 mm?; see text)
· Valving is different
· Mounting forks do not quite fit
Let’s manage these deviations:

The spring:
Because of a different geometry, all springs for the CR500 are way too soft. From literature and forums I learnt that I needed a spring of about 90 N/mm. That is for my 100 kg load (the sum of my weight and the luggage that I want to take on trips).
I could buy a cheap spring 84 N/mm of a Husaberg. It is 20 mm shorter then the original. This can be corrected with the pretension ring, leaving only less range for the pretension. But as I needed to correct the stroke anyway, I made a collar below the spring cup which also corrects for the spring length. See text below and photo (external collar).

There appeared to be many other second hand springs for sale in the desired dimension and range. They are used on KTM and Husaberg. Note that you do not want a progressive spring, as progressivity is already built in the KLX by the linkage system. For our US-friends: the conversion factor for spring rate is: 1 N/mm = 5,71 lbs/inch, so my spring in US terms is a “# 480”. Be aware that there is much confusion between weight and spring rate. For many bikes the numerical values are in the same range, but they are two different measures!

Lenght:
Lenght is critical, especially for short people like me. Longer shock means higher seat. Some (tall) people like that, so may be happy with the CR500 shock as it comes. Short ones can compensate the height by messing with the length of the dogbones. But I had my share with that; further it changes the geometry and this again may change the shock behaviour. Better to aim for the original geometry.
So we have to cut the piston rod by 15 mm? No, I figured out an easier solution: install a metal collar inside the shock, so that the rod can not extend the full range. This collar is 20 mm wide. There was a disk of 5 mm in this place, so it makes 15 mm difference. Note that there should be room inside the collar for the oil channels that are there! See the photo’s and the dimension sketch. For the material of the collars I used some steel that was lying around. The inside collar will not rust, for any oxygen inside will soon be depleted. The outside collar is rusting like the other parts of my bike. You may want to use stainless steel.

For reassembling some specs of the Honda shock were missing.
For example the required torque for the nut on top of the piston rod. I used 30 Nm and Loctite. Until now it did not come off (I think I would have noticed).
And the filing procedure: I was told there should be no air in the oil compartment, but I can not find a bleeding provision. Filling turned out a little messy.
Also could not find the required gas pressure on the reservoir: used 10 bar Nitrogen.
The original weight of the oil: SAE5?

Stroke:
The stroke is already shortened with 15 mm by the internal collar. For the remaining correction, I made a second, external, collar of 15 mm below the spring cup. Resulting in 30 mm total stroke correction. I am not quite sure if this is enough. Theoretically there may be needed 10 mm extra, if you account for the compression of the rubber end stoppers. Exact data are missing. I planned to check the wheel travel on the bike with the shock in place but without a spring, but I forgot to do.

This external collar also corrects the spring length, and for my spring that just fits. Note that you may need a different collar, and above the spring cup, if you do not need to correct for spring length.


Mounting:
Just like the modifications with other adjustable shocks, you have to remove the toolbox, the toolbox bracket that is welded on the frame and the bracket at the top of the tool box (this one is bolted). Most work was to relocate the cable harness upwards. The bottom fork of the shock is a little too narrow. I used a file to widen it a few millimetres, but it took me quite some time, so next time I would take it to a workshop to have it done with a machine.
The top mount is too wide: fill the gap with washers. The shock fits very tight between the frame at the left and the air inlet tube on the right. By changing the location of the washers you can shift the position a little. See photo’s.
You need only very little spacing to the frame: when the shock is loaded the gap gets greater. As mentioned, I used the standard linkage system and dogbones.

Valving:
The valve packet of the CR500 shock is not tailored for the KLX650 and thus probably wrong (too light). For the first try I did not alter it. Only used oil SAE10 instead of the original SAE5 (probably).

Testride and adjustment:
There has been written so much about shock adjustment, that I was afraid this would take a project of its own. To start, I set all dials on mid position, then I soon felt that the damping needed a few clicks more and after that I did not alter it again. It will not be optimal adjusted yet but the shock performance is dramatically improved. Best notable by the ability to bump through holes with the same speed as my fellow riders. And I never noticed anymore that the stopper or fender was hit (about 1000 km’s off road now). This feels like it should be. Project succeeded!

What remains to be done?
For me nothing, because the shock performance is completely satisfying now. But purists may want to complete some details:
· Go to a shock specialist for an adapted valving set.
· Check the wheel travel by mounting the shock without the spring.
· Optimise the damping settings.

Costs:
Shock absorber: 50 Euro
Spring: 20 Euro
Machining of the collars: 35 Euro
Filling with Nitrogen: 4 euro
Research hours: 50? a 50 Euro: 2500 Euro
Trial and error hours: 20? a 50 Euro: 1000 Euro
So total about 3600 Euro. But next time only 110 Euro and a few hours work


Please copy this idea of modifying a shock and also share the results.
All comments are welcome, so this text can be updated for future readers.

Disclaimer:
This is not a bolt-on modification. You need technical knowledge and experience.
I described what worked for me. Check everything, because your equipment may differ. Etcetera, etcetera.


Photo’s:


Material at the start, Left to right:
shock KLX650C; shock CR500; original spring of CR500; spring of Husaberg used by me



Collars made: Left the internal collar 20 mm wide; Right the external collar 15 mm wide



Modified shock ready to install



The bottom fork is a little too narrow



Remove the tool box bracket



Use washers to fill the gap at the top mount.



Very tight fit between the frame and the reservoir (Red Bull is not required)



Dimension sketch for the collars

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Old 01-15-2013, 05:46 PM   #2635
Knobster
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Excellent work. I'm doing the DRZ shock swap. I posted the progress on the KLX yahoo group in an album. It is under motorsickletom if anyone is interested. Many have said a good rear shock vastly improves the bike..I can't wait to finish mine.

Cheer's,

Tom.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:14 AM   #2636
Matje
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My new shock will further prove itself on the "Rally Raid Les PIONNIER'S de l'Histoire".
http://www.rallyeraidjojodelhistoire.com/bienvenue.ws
It is a rally for (mainly) historic motors and cars. In september 2013. In France.

There are still some places available, so if anyone want to join us .....

They classified my KLX650 as "replica".
I think it should be "historic", because I thought the KLX was in the Dakar once.
When was that?
Photo's?, info?

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:55 AM   #2637
Myway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matje View Post
My new shock will further prove itself on the "Rally Raid Les PIONNIER'S de l'Histoire".
http://www.rallyeraidjojodelhistoire.com/bienvenue.ws
It is a rally for (mainly) historic motors and cars. In september 2013. In France.

There are still some places available, so if anyone want to join us .....

They classified my KLX650 as "replica".
I think it should be "historic", because I thought the KLX was in the Dakar once.
When was that?
Photo's?, info?

Thanks
nice raid

dakar 1995
http://www.planetklx.de/wbboard/thre...902090d56e41ff

rallye
http://www.planetklx.de/wbboard/thre...902090d56e41ff
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:06 PM   #2638
MasterMarine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matje View Post
My new shock will further prove itself on the "Rally Raid Les PIONNIER'S de l'Histoire".
http://www.rallyeraidjojodelhistoire.com/bienvenue.ws
It is a rally for (mainly) historic motors and cars. In september 2013. In France.

There are still some places available, so if anyone want to join us .....

They classified my KLX650 as "replica".
I think it should be "historic", because I thought the KLX was in the Dakar once.
When was that?
Photo's?, info?

Thanks
There was at least one. I saw some pictures of one in the Dakar bikes thread and tracked down the rider. He sent me some pictures. I will have to ask if I can post them up.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:37 PM   #2639
MasterMarine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matje View Post
I think it should be "historic", because I thought the KLX was in the Dakar once.
When was that?
Photo's?, info?

Thanks
Here are the pictures Aldo Winkler sent me a couple years ago of his Dakar ride. I think he wrote me that it was in 1996. It looks like it was a KLX650R.





















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Old 01-21-2013, 05:50 PM   #2640
Knobster
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THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Coolest pics EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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