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Old 12-29-2012, 12:57 PM   #72271
chethro
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Joined: May 2012
Location: WV
Oddometer: 21
Tire Boo Boo?

Well I put on a D606 on the front of my bike today using the Ziptie method. I thought everything went great until I started on the rear (the front is back on the bike) and I notice that the tube stem has a beveled washer and nut on the inside of the rim and a nut on the outside. The new tubes I put in only came with one nut and the beveled washer, so I used the beveled washer on the inside of the rim and the nut on the outside. No nut on the inside.


Is this a problem or should I just wait until I wear out the front to install a nut on the inside of the rim? Or should I go ahead and pull the front and make it right?
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:59 PM   #72272
Ren20
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regarding the IMS tank earlier.

It's confirmed indeed it was an IMS tank. The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

I've done paypal, but never done cashier check before. Plus he gave me an po box address. to be honest, I am skeptical now as he was when I called him stating I am from a different state.

This deal probably save me about 70 dollars than buying new from justgastank. Worth taking the chance?

I still like the acerbis tank better.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #72273
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
regarding the IMS tank earlier.

It's confirmed indeed it was an IMS tank. The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

I've done paypal, but never done cashier check before. Plus he gave me an po box address. to be honest, I am skeptical now as he was when I called him stating I am from a different state.

This deal probably save me about 70 dollars than buying new from justgastank. Worth taking the chance?

I still like the acerbis tank better.
even if it was exactly what i wanted, i would never do anything other than a paypal or credit card payment for an on-line transaction, unless it was someone i knew/trusted... only time i have ever been burned on internet transactions was when i paid cash.

in this case, what's $70, especially if it's not what you really want? that's about $1.35/week for a year...

doug s.
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #72274
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
Majority off road, definitely the emulators. I tried both.
I'm in the "Majority off road, definitely the Intiminators. I tried both." camp.

I came into off road via road riding and like the front to be firmer and higher than traditional off road suspension.

I don't like brake dive.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:02 PM   #72275
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post

4 - Right now, I just followed the instructions and wired the things straight into my battery. This does mean that any joker can come by in the parking lot, push the ON button, and kill my battery. It also means that I have to be vigilant about turning them off when I turn off the bike. Does anyone else run heated grips off that switched ignition pair that resides under our headlight shrouds? They have a 5A inline fuse, and I don't think the wattage was actually all that high.
Definitely you need a relay that is switched by a wire that is only one when the key is turned on, unless you want to develop your bump starting techniques
. : I did it on several bikes so it must be simply. Just go to any auto parts store and get a generic horn or lights relay, should have a diagram on it that tells you which terminal connects to what, power in, switch, ground, etc. I usually just use a wire going to the tail light, and be sure there is a fuse into the system. Oops, I see you have a fuse. I usually use the cheapo glue on elements that cost about $30 but this install, on a Guzzi, I used Bikemaster, that I found for $45 and were simple to install with a 5 level controller.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:09 PM   #72276
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldman View Post
it's a Rossi .22 takedown carbine that shoots shorts, longs, and long rifle. It fits easily into a standard paintball gun case as you see in the pic. Also easily fits incognito into a standard duffel, knapsack etc. One of my favorite rifles to shoot besides its extreme portability.
Sweet little gun!
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:09 PM   #72277
Echo1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post

Main advantage of buying NEW is the warranty ... and the ability to buy an Extended Warranty up to 5 years. This covers things like 3rd gear failures.
Rare as they are ... if it happens in 5 years ... you get a NEW motor.
This is logical but I'm not sure it's true. The warranty probably only covers the cost to repair up to the value of the bike.

A couple years ago a DR owner posted (on Thumpertalk) his bike blew 3rd gear and apparently did a lot of damage. His bike was still under the factory warranty but the cost to repair exceeded the bike value, so they were going to total it. The owner was pissed because he financed the bike and owed more than book value. Eventually the thread disappeared so Suzuki must have provided a satisfactory solution.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:44 PM   #72278
wee-twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Santa brought me a Ruger 10/22 for Christmas. I would like to take it upstate, NY to a friends property to shoot/hunt, and do this on my dr. The problem is, I live in NY, and have to travel through NYC to get there. I can't keep the gun visible without attracting attention. The alternative I'm thinking of is strapping a large duffel bag to the rear rack, and removing the stock from the gun to make it smaller. IIRC the stock is 30" long.

thanks in advance...
Take a look at lacrosse stick cases. I planed on buying on using a blue one. Never saw a blue rifle case so it might go unnoticed. Due to the recent bad publicity in the norhteast, i have decided against that. I recently found that Ruger makes a 10/22 takedown. Comes in a case and does not look like a firearm.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:02 PM   #72279
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amk View Post
I cannot pinpoint you to the exact cause of the problem, but the theory of problem solving is simple enough. DR does not have a gas pump, i.e. gas flows free to the carb by its weight and atmospheric pressure.
So the first one is to make sure the carb's inlet is below the petcock. The last usually has a pipe of 5 cm. height inside the tank, so everything under the the pipe is stayed there forever and cannot be used.
Second, make sure the gas inside is under the atmospheric pressure, the breather is not blocked etc. Just take the gas cap off and depress start button again.
Third, remove all barriers between tank and carb's inlet, i.e. filters, here I am not sure, but there probably is a small oem one right in the tank petcock or in the carb. Take the petcock out, open it, disconnect the hose from inlet and blow into petcock, should be no resistance to the air flow.
It is one of three reasons, which one is yours? It actually may be all 3 of them simultaneously.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Not quite right. The DR and other carbed bikes are primarily fed by gravity. There's a bit of suction/siphon going on too, but the primary method of getting gas into the carb from the tank is by gravity feed. As long as there is no kink or blockage in the line, you basically just want the fuel to NOT have to flow uphill to get into the carb. Suction will overcome a little bit, but it can also allow air-bubbles to get into the line and affect fuel flow. The flow from my petcock to my carb is all either down or sideways. There is no uphill flow. As long as my tank is venting ok, I have no flow issues. I can run my tank pretty dry. Route your fuel lines so that there is NO uphill flow. If you can't do that, you may want to install a fuelpump.
Up hill is OK as long as its to the carb or a fuel tap. This gives any air the chance to escape. If its just a loop/siphon in the fuel line, then that when its a problem.

I got rid of the internal filters from the taps, and the one to the carb. I still have a servicable in line filter, which is also positioned vertically to no air traps in it either.



Having a swivelling inlet on the FCR helps for sure too.

On the BST, I cut off the original pipe and threaded in a straight fitting. When I tried to turn it, I thought it might break the carb.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:12 PM   #72280
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy
6 oclock would be even better, then there is no fuel line above the bottom of the tank or the float bowel.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:16 PM   #72281
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chethro View Post
Well I put on a D606 on the front of my bike today using the Ziptie method. I thought everything went great until I started on the rear (the front is back on the bike) and I notice that the tube stem has a beveled washer and nut on the inside of the rim and a nut on the outside. The new tubes I put in only came with one nut and the beveled washer, so I used the beveled washer on the inside of the rim and the nut on the outside. No nut on the inside.


Is this a problem or should I just wait until I wear out the front to install a nut on the inside of the rim? Or should I go ahead and pull the front and make it right?
I always remove the inner nut, it does nothing otehr than deform the tube when inflated.

Ride it.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:28 PM   #72282
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
regarding the IMS tank earlier.

The seller wants me to mail him a cashier check first. he ships it, then i will send him a second check to cover the shipping cost.

Worth taking the chance?
Absolutely NOT. But I'm cynical from working financial crimes for the past 12 years. Besides, go buy what you really want. 10 years from now, you're not going to slap yourself on the back over saving a few bucks. But you will look at pics - or your bike - with the "that's exactly how I wanted it" satisfaction grin.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:29 PM   #72283
acesandeights
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New Bars, Choke Lever ?

I got new bars and everything else seems to go on, fit fine except the choke lever. The bars are checkered on the left side and the inner diameter of the choke lever seems smaller than the outer diameter of the bars and won't go on. I could dremel it but seems it should just go on like on the stock bars. This couldn't have been an issue for everyone, right? Or, what did you do? They are Fly Aero tapered bars from Procycle by the way.

BTW, it slides right over the other side (the wrong side). Are the bars soft enough I can sand the checkered part on the left?
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acesandeights screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 06:19 PM
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #72284
Ren20
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Good point. I am gonna just order an acerbis from our vendor.

Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Absolutely NOT. But I'm cynical from working financial crimes for the past 12 years. Besides, go buy what you really want. 10 years from now, you're not going to slap yourself on the back over saving a few bucks. But you will look at pics - or your bike - with the "that's exactly how I wanted it" satisfaction grin.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #72285
wee-twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Good point. I am gonna just order an acerbis from our vendor.

Thanks
Justgastanks has a ADV discount as well. I think it is 5% off.
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