ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-29-2012, 02:36 PM   #1231
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
You might find this interesting: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...28#post2789428

Jim
Which part? It took me to page 14...
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 02:40 PM   #1232
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
The member we're calling gusset is is a tie, meaning it's always under tension. Being under tension, it doesn't need to be much. A cable and turnbuckle would do for example.

If a full square tube between the wheels is the way you're going, you can always put a sleeve in the middle of it to allow the main post to pass thru and drop all the way to the floor. Important note, the nearer that cross tie is to the ground, the less of a ramp-to-floor angle the gantry will be able to traverse. You know, like where the ramp of the driveway meets the garage floor.

Regarding clearance for the come-along, I'm thinking the come-along doesn't necessarily need to be hooked to the bottom of the post to be able to lift it. Any one of the holes in the post can be a lift point. Use a hoist ring or a d-ring tie down under a bolt head.


In order to pull the beam to maximum height in the sleeve, the come-along will absolutely have to attach to the very bottom of the main post. The notch in the post sleeve allows a little extra up travel for pins that may not align perfectly.

Anything higher than that attached to the post will not clear the bottom of the post sleeve. Ties on the same side of the come-along will not allow the come-along idea to work without some sort of interference..

kirkster70 screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 02:56 PM
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 02:51 PM   #1233
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Done for the day...



Channel centered and clamped to 6" I-beam.



1/2" bolts used as setscrews.



Setscrews (of random length) fine-tuned to make the plate the angle I want, then clamped in place.



Zinc ground to bare metal. Plate tacked in place to remove second set of clamps.



Joint fully welded. 1st set of clamps removed, and bracket supported by itself. I think this will work.



Yep. I like this.



I chose this configuration for several reasons: adaptable to a larger I-beam if I decide on upgrading to a 2 ton span and hoist, and "in theory", the gantry is now width adjustable for heavier loads.





Once I figured out the pattern, the second one almost built itself. I'm very happy with this. It almost makes up for having the holes 90 degrees out-of-whack...almost.

It's been a good day in the Rookie Garage. I think it's officially beer:30.

After some fine-tuning, these bad boys will be ready for paint.

kirkster70 screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 03:01 PM
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 03:02 PM   #1234
Poolside
Syndicated
 
Poolside's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Long Beach, CA
Oddometer: 11,751

You might need to take a break and step back for a bit. This is friendly commentary and you might be on your way to a brain lapse, or fart as you call it.

The hoist ring would be held in place with a bolt, through one of the holes already drilled in the post, not permanently welded. A removable hoist ring allows clearance for the various accoutrements, and lets the cross tie pass on both sides of the post.

Just don't put that square tube cross tie you were talking about too close to the ground. If so the gantry will high-center over any sort of rise.



__________________

IICE Air Hotrod your GS  Fuel Injection  Tech Info  Buy  Order List  Installation
Poolside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 03:06 PM   #1235
Poolside
Syndicated
 
Poolside's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Long Beach, CA
Oddometer: 11,751
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post


Nice work!

If you turn the clamp around the other way on the I-beam, the trolley will have more travel.



__________________

IICE Air Hotrod your GS  Fuel Injection  Tech Info  Buy  Order List  Installation
Poolside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 03:08 PM   #1236
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
You might need to take a break and step back for a bit. This is friendly commentary and you might be on your way to a brain lapse, or fart as you call it.

The hoist ring would be held in place with a bolt, through one of the holes already drilled in the post, not permanently welded. A removable hoist ring allows clearance for the various accoutrements, and lets the cross tie pass on both sides of the post.

Just don't put that square tube cross tie you were talking about too close to the ground. If so the gantry will high-center over any sort of rise.


What part of what I said was "unfriendly"? Shrugs...
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 05:01 PM   #1237
9Dave
Bazinga!
 
9Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Central Ohio
Oddometer: 12,744
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I know what you mean on safety. He scares the crap out of me when he's reaching in with his bare hands while running the lathe.


I saw him reaching in along side the chuck in motion with a long sleeve shirt on. I was waiting for it to grab it and break his arm.

And can you please get a proper pair of Mig pliers!?
__________________


dunno.....
9Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 07:03 PM   #1238
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9Dave View Post


I saw him reaching in along side the chuck in motion with a long sleeve shirt on. I was waiting for it to grab it and break his arm.

And can you please get a proper pair of Mig pliers!?
Show me where to get a good, well made pair, and I'll buy them! All the ones I have seen are a bit on the cheesy side.

Until then, my 20 y.o. Kleins will have to do.
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 08:30 PM   #1239
JimVonBaden
"Cool" Aid!
 
JimVonBaden's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 48,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Which part? It took me to page 14...
Scroll to the top of that page.

Jim
JimVonBaden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 10:55 PM   #1240
Rhyno
PrsnalityAccentuator
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: 1000 Miles from nowhere.....
Oddometer: 87
I hope that I don't offend, but you'll produce a better project with proper joint prep and pre-heat. (Beveling and gapping) You display a steady hand, but at times "low Heat."

I don't want to take away motivation, I wanna help.
__________________
I make all of the idiots cry.....Their personal insecurity depicts the size/childness of their remarks and replies......
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhyno View Post
But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....
Rhyno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2012, 11:57 PM   #1241
DaBit
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Netherlands
Oddometer: 345
@Kirkster,

How do you cut that steel plate so straight with the grinder? Anything special? I seem to always have a slight wobble in the cut or other mayhem. Usign good quality cutting discs and grinder of course.
I swapped to the reciprocating saw instead because of that, but it's a lot slower.
DaBit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2012, 01:37 AM   #1242
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Scroll to the top of that page.

Jim
Ooops! I totally missed that the first time. Doh!.

Looks like I need to be a member to view the piccys...
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2012, 01:44 AM   #1243
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhyno View Post
I hope that I don't offend, but you'll produce a better project with proper joint prep and pre-heat. (Beveling and gapping) You display a steady hand, but at times "low Heat."

I don't want to take away motivation, I wanna help.
No offense taken whatsoever.

On all the plate I just welded, I left an open corner for plenty of fill.

Sometimes I will do a forehand or backhand stringer, so one has more deposition than the other. I see a lot of heat and discoloration on the backside of the thick pieces I'm welding, so I think I have good penetration. Some of the joints even have a bit of undercutting on each side, so I dunno,,,
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2012, 01:55 AM   #1244
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBit View Post
@Kirkster,

How do you cut that steel plate so straight with the grinder? Anything special? I seem to always have a slight wobble in the cut or other mayhem. Usign good quality cutting discs and grinder of course.
I swapped to the reciprocating saw instead because of that, but it's a lot slower.
I haven't been able to see any noticeable differences in cut quality between various brands of cutting wheels.

I've been using the cheapest I can find for the most part. I've been using DeWalt discs here lately. Tractor Supply has them at $1.99 each, so I normally buy 10 at a time when I'm in there. I could probably find them even cheaper online.

I don't try to make the entire depth of the cut on the first swipe. I just slowly walk the disc down the mark letting the weight of the grinder do the work. The first pass is all about being on the line. Then I just do that 10 or 15 more times until through. I do my best to keep the wheel straight both ways. If you cock it left or right even a little bit, it makes for a wide cut, and the wheel will want to bind and/or jump around. After about halfway through something thick, I can cut forwards and backwards in the same cut pretty easily. I've gotten so proficient with the cutting wheel, that the plasma is gathering dust. Part of that is due to the fact that I need some consumables for it, but I haven't really been bothered to order any with the cuts I'm getting out of the little grinder. I hope this helps!
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2012, 02:52 AM   #1245
wilkinsonk
Riff Raff
 
wilkinsonk's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Sanford, NC
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I've gotten so proficient with the cutting wheel, that the plasma is gathering dust. Part of that is due to the fact that I need some consumables for it, but I haven't really been bothered to order any with the cuts I'm getting out of the little grinder.
When I get back to Virginia next month I'll come by with 10 dozen cutting disks and trade them for you plasma cutter.
wilkinsonk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014