Sibirsky Extreme 2012 - The Toughest Ride of Them All

[ciedema]

I should add that my wife actually took that photo - before everyone thinks I am dirty old man!

[Colebatch]

Originally Posted by ciedema

The Crew (and me)

As we were having breakfast with ciedema and his wife, the distinctive sound of Rod's bike could be heard motoring down the highway. The good thing about being located in this particular hotel with its highway frontage, is every motorcycle coming into or going out of Mongolia was heard and seen by me for a week. We werent expecting Rod quite so early (Rod is a much earlier riser than the rest of us) as he was still 3-4 hours ride away from us when he stopped to camp the previous night. I was expecting him around lunchtime. So while Rod is all kitted up in his riding gear in the pic above, we were all still in our breakfast clothes. So we invited him to join us for breakfast.

After breakfast we bid ciedema farewell and heard the lovely sound of a LC8 heading off towards Mongolia. I had loads of packing still to do and we didn't head off for the Mongolian border for another hour and a half - around midday. We stopped in at Kosh Agach, the last chance saloon before Mongolia, and filled up with 96 octane fuel, lots of camping food and biscuits. Then it was on towards the border itself. It was after 2pm when we reached the border, and had to wait around a while. Think a lot of the staff were still on lunch. The important thing here was to make sure the carnet that covered Prutser, Beamster and Rod's bike was stamped out of Russia. Then they could enter Mongolia individually, and without the carnet.

The Russian customs guys didnt seem to be totally sure what to do with the carnet (Russia / Kazakhstan customs union normally doesnt require carnets for vehicles, but since the bikes were imported en masse, without any of the owners with them it was the easiest way), so we just made sure he stamped as many places as possible so we could get the carnet back to Sambor.

Then we hit the Mongolian border. The other 4 guys sailed through, but I had a problem. My Mongolian visa and Russian visa were in two different passports and the Mongolian border guy said this was not allowed. I argued with him for over half an hour ... demanding he show me where it says its not allowed and telling me I had done it this way before many many times in previous years, so I didnt believe him. He kept saying he cant stamp me into Mongolia as it wont be clear where I came from. I kept staying well I am stamped out of Russia so I am staying here till you either show me in writing where Mongolian law says the visa for the previous country must be in the same passport, or till he lets me in. In the end, he called the capital, UlaanBaatar, and got come advice from someone higher up, who told him to stamp my passport and let me in.

Then we had to pay out Mongolian environmental tax, and finally, at about 4:30pm we were free in Mongolia.

We did less than 10 km in Mongolia before I turned of the main road / track / cross country route ... and headed into the hills.

Here's Terry blasting up into the hills, while the main track to the border town of Tsagaannuur lies in the background at the bottom of the valley.

[Colebatch]

The weather wasnt great, but we were all enjoying being back on the bikes again - especially Rod and myself who hadnt done too much riding in the past week.

[pasha]

I was following this thread from day one and waiting for Mongolia more than anything...I have a feeling that the adventure is starting now...
Very epic and very inspiring RR..
Thank you guys for everything....

[Colebatch]

Even though we were just 40km, half an hour or so into Mongolia, the scenery was already totally unique. This could only be Mongolia.



We stopped for photos - almost every scene in this Altai part of Mongolia is like a postcard.

[jmandrell]

Thank you all!!! This report certainly inspires me to do more of my own adventures!!!

[Colebatch]

Terry, wise as ever, soaks in the beauty ...

[elias]

Originally Posted by ciedema

I think this was the girl who cleaned Walter's room everyday

Walter: "I think i am tired, i will stay in Aktash to watch how is Rod doing "

Yea Yea, now we all believe you.......

[FUTURE]

Originally Posted by Colebatch

Terry, wise as ever, soaks in the beauty ...

Portrait of a man of the road as he reflects on the miles he has done and what he has experienced. What a brilliant photo.

[enduro0125]

Originally Posted by FUTURE

Portrait of a man of the road as he reflects on the miles he has done and what he has experienced. What a brilliant photo.

Great shot!

[Beater]

How does one nominate a pic for the ADV home page? This is fantastic / hilarious / thoughtful / fun / pure adventure.

Originally Posted by Colebatch

[6USMC6]

I hope that photo of Terry was taken with your good camera.

It needs to be blown up to a 16 X 24 and framed.

The composition, framing, color, everything is near perfect.

[ROD CURRIE]

We were all glad to be moving again, Walter rested, the guys chilled and thrilled after the Altai but keen to move on and me just glad the wheels were turning. The weather started to cool off as we got to the border and as we waited under the wriggly tin (corrugated iron)shed for the Mongolian border guards to come back from lunch it started to rain with a vengeance.

Eventually they pitched up and the rest of us got through customs except for Walter. Whilst he was doing battle with the Forces of Darkness (Government anywhere) Terry and I were instructed to go into a little stone hut where an official was there to sell us the mandatory "insurance" necessary for travel in Mong. I dunno how much good it would be in the event of a prang, but at least we'd have something to flash to an official if stopped and for the cost (about 12 quid as I remember-20 bucks) it was a potential ace in the hole should it be needed.
Whilst we were in there filling in the paperwork this sweet little girl kept looking in and as we waved through the window she'd laugh like any kid anywhere and duck down again. I think her parents lived on the border station as there were a couple of houses there. When we came out she approached us with her furry pal and we snapped this pic

[ROD CURRIE]

The change in terrain and more importantly road surface was immediate-as soon as we crossed the border the asphalt disappeared and the dirt started -with corrugations from all the trucks but we soon turned off onto "proper" dirt and could open the taps on the bikes. The dirt was that perfect kind with just enough give to soften the ride but give you confidence and we flew along. At one point we passed a couple of gers with the attendant livestock (funny, you can always smell the sheep or cattle before you see them) and scrofulous dogs.
As Walter passed the first dog gave chase but it was a long way back...another joined, and then another and they were on a path to intercept with us. I gave the old girl some beans and flew past just ahead of the lead mutt and I'm not sure how the other guys went on but assume there were no collisions. I've never hit a dog thank God-it would really ruin my holiday and wouldn't make the dog's day either I suppose although there have been a few snapping-at-the-heels close calls.
The roads are sort of multitrack ...as one track falls out of favour or weather-friendliness another parallel track is adopted so one has multiple choices and it's a hoot for overtaking and just general hooning like we mature folk do.

[Prutser]

This is the wriggly tin (corrugated iron)shed for the Mongolian border that Rod mentioned.



Rod tightening his straps just before we would enter Mongolia. As you can see behind the fence the tarmac stops !