Rookie wanna-be weldor starting to make some cool things!

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

You might find this interesting: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...28#post2789428

Jim

Which part? It took me to page 14...

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Poolside

The member we're calling gusset is is a tie, meaning it's always under tension. Being under tension, it doesn't need to be much. A cable and turnbuckle would do for example.

If a full square tube between the wheels is the way you're going, you can always put a sleeve in the middle of it to allow the main post to pass thru and drop all the way to the floor. Important note, the nearer that cross tie is to the ground, the less of a ramp-to-floor angle the gantry will be able to traverse. You know, like where the ramp of the driveway meets the garage floor.

Regarding clearance for the come-along, I'm thinking the come-along doesn't necessarily need to be hooked to the bottom of the post to be able to lift it. Any one of the holes in the post can be a lift point. Use a hoist ring or a d-ring tie down under a bolt head.

In order to pull the beam to maximum height in the sleeve, the come-along will absolutely have to attach to the very bottom of the main post. The notch in the post sleeve allows a little extra up travel for pins that may not align perfectly.

Anything higher than that attached to the post will not clear the bottom of the post sleeve. Ties on the same side of the come-along will not allow the come-along idea to work without some sort of interference..

[kirkster70]

Done for the day...



Channel centered and clamped to 6" I-beam.



1/2" bolts used as setscrews.



Setscrews (of random length) fine-tuned to make the plate the angle I want, then clamped in place.



Zinc ground to bare metal. Plate tacked in place to remove second set of clamps.



Joint fully welded. 1st set of clamps removed, and bracket supported by itself. I think this will work.



Yep. I like this.



I chose this configuration for several reasons: adaptable to a larger I-beam if I decide on upgrading to a 2 ton span and hoist, and "in theory", the gantry is now width adjustable for heavier loads.





Once I figured out the pattern, the second one almost built itself. I'm very happy with this. It almost makes up for having the holes 90 degrees out-of-whack...almost.

It's been a good day in the Rookie Garage. I think it's officially beer:30.

After some fine-tuning, these bad boys will be ready for paint.

[Poolside]

You might need to take a break and step back for a bit. This is friendly commentary and you might be on your way to a brain lapse, or fart as you call it.

The hoist ring would be held in place with a bolt, through one of the holes already drilled in the post, not permanently welded. A removable hoist ring allows clearance for the various accoutrements, and lets the cross tie pass on both sides of the post.

Just don't put that square tube cross tie you were talking about too close to the ground. If so the gantry will high-center over any sort of rise.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

Nice work!

If you turn the clamp around the other way on the I-beam, the trolley will have more travel.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Poolside

You might need to take a break and step back for a bit. This is friendly commentary and you might be on your way to a brain lapse, or fart as you call it.

The hoist ring would be held in place with a bolt, through one of the holes already drilled in the post, not permanently welded. A removable hoist ring allows clearance for the various accoutrements, and lets the cross tie pass on both sides of the post.

Just don't put that square tube cross tie you were talking about too close to the ground. If so the gantry will high-center over any sort of rise.

What part of what I said was "unfriendly"? Shrugs...

[9Dave]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

I know what you mean on safety. He scares the crap out of me when he's reaching in with his bare hands while running the lathe.

I saw him reaching in along side the chuck in motion with a long sleeve shirt on. I was waiting for it to grab it and break his arm.

And can you please get a proper pair of Mig pliers!?

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by 9Dave

I saw him reaching in along side the chuck in motion with a long sleeve shirt on. I was waiting for it to grab it and break his arm.

And can you please get a proper pair of Mig pliers!?

Show me where to get a good, well made pair, and I'll buy them! All the ones I have seen are a bit on the cheesy side.

Until then, my 20 y.o. Kleins will have to do.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

Which part? It took me to page 14...

Scroll to the top of that page.

Jim

[Rhyno]

I hope that I don't offend, but you'll produce a better project with proper joint prep and pre-heat. (Beveling and gapping) You display a steady hand, but at times "low Heat."

I don't want to take away motivation, I wanna help.

[DaBit]

@Kirkster,

How do you cut that steel plate so straight with the grinder? Anything special? I seem to always have a slight wobble in the cut or other mayhem. Usign good quality cutting discs and grinder of course.
I swapped to the reciprocating saw instead because of that, but it's a lot slower.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Scroll to the top of that page.

Jim

Ooops! I totally missed that the first time. Doh!.

Looks like I need to be a member to view the piccys...

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Rhyno

I hope that I don't offend, but you'll produce a better project with proper joint prep and pre-heat. (Beveling and gapping) You display a steady hand, but at times "low Heat."

I don't want to take away motivation, I wanna help.

No offense taken whatsoever.

On all the plate I just welded, I left an open corner for plenty of fill.

Sometimes I will do a forehand or backhand stringer, so one has more deposition than the other. I see a lot of heat and discoloration on the backside of the thick pieces I'm welding, so I think I have good penetration. Some of the joints even have a bit of undercutting on each side, so I dunno,,,

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by DaBit

@Kirkster,

How do you cut that steel plate so straight with the grinder? Anything special? I seem to always have a slight wobble in the cut or other mayhem. Usign good quality cutting discs and grinder of course.
I swapped to the reciprocating saw instead because of that, but it's a lot slower.

I haven't been able to see any noticeable differences in cut quality between various brands of cutting wheels.

I've been using the cheapest I can find for the most part. I've been using DeWalt discs here lately. Tractor Supply has them at $1.99 each, so I normally buy 10 at a time when I'm in there. I could probably find them even cheaper online.

I don't try to make the entire depth of the cut on the first swipe. I just slowly walk the disc down the mark letting the weight of the grinder do the work. The first pass is all about being on the line. Then I just do that 10 or 15 more times until through. I do my best to keep the wheel straight both ways. If you cock it left or right even a little bit, it makes for a wide cut, and the wheel will want to bind and/or jump around. After about halfway through something thick, I can cut forwards and backwards in the same cut pretty easily. I've gotten so proficient with the cutting wheel, that the plasma is gathering dust. Part of that is due to the fact that I need some consumables for it, but I haven't really been bothered to order any with the cuts I'm getting out of the little grinder. I hope this helps!

[wilkinsonk]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

I've gotten so proficient with the cutting wheel, that the plasma is gathering dust. Part of that is due to the fact that I need some consumables for it, but I haven't really been bothered to order any with the cuts I'm getting out of the little grinder.

When I get back to Virginia next month I'll come by with 10 dozen cutting disks and trade them for you plasma cutter.