Lighting: where do I tap into for 'turn on'?

[JRP]

Originally Posted by LaurelPerryOnLand

http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html

You run the hot wire through a slotted bolt, then a nut secures it. The wire you want to electrify goes into the nut then is secured with another
nut. There is a picture on that website. The tapped wire only ends up with a very small hole in the insulation.

[rdwalker]

Originally Posted by LaurelPerryOnLand

http://www.posi-lock.com/instructions1.html

I don't know, it looks to me like a more expensive version of the Scotchlock taps, prone to loosening, corrosion and contact resistance.

I always strip a short, quarter-inch section of tapped wire, wrap the tapping wire around and solder the junction. Yes, it takes a bit more time - but now it is off-season anyway, no? Time for bike farkling.

I have had my share of IDC (insulation displacement connector) failures. OTOH, I have never had a solder splice fail on me, even if sloppily made. And you would not believe the amount of add-on wiring on my bikes - I am a hopeless gadget freak. Good connections are a must.

Robert.

[Stinkyb]

Posi taps look very practical in that they are very invasive. I would stick apply electrical tape around to secured the nut( that motorbike/hockey tape...ya know what I mean)

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by JRP

Just a note, if you use a Positap you won't have to cut or solder any wires.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

, and do it on the parking lamp or the running lamp for the tail light.

Jim

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by rdwalker

I don't know, it looks to me like a more expensive version of the Scotchlock taps, prone to loosening, corrosion and contact resistance.
Robert.

I have used them extensively. They seal themselves with the tip of the pin penetrating the insulation, and are much less likely to damage the original wire. When removed they leave a pinhole sized hole, and do not cut any strands of wire like a schotchlock.

Jim

[rdwalker]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

I have used them extensively. They seal themselves with the tip of the pin penetrating the insulation, and are much less likely to damage the original wire. When removed they leave a pinhole sized hole, and do not cut any strands of wire like a schotchlock.

Jim

Does sound better than Scotchlock, then.

[geotherm]

when using the tailight as 'turn on', should I tap into wire at plug right before bulb? Also, do I need to have voltmeter out to make sure which wire is positive? Or, is one color always the 'hot'?

[JRP]

A voltmeter would be a good idea. You can tap into the wire at any point. I don't have my 1150 anymore but I believe all the grounds are brown so you wouldn't want one of those.

[Twilight Error]

Originally Posted by TuefelHunden

Somewhere on here is a post by JVB, maybe about fuze blocks that says to use blue/green wire in diagnostic plug for the trigger. I used it with no problems. Easy to find, close to my fuseblock, easy to tap.

This is the wire I use for my switched power relays, it won't be live until the idiot light on the dash is off.

[Twilight Error]

Originally Posted by geotherm

when using the tailight as 'turn on', should I tap into wire at plug right before bulb? Also, do I need to have voltmeter out to make sure which wire is positive? Or, is one color always the 'hot'?

Tap into it somewhere you can reach and easily work on, should you have to. Tapping into a tail light wire near a socket won't make a measurable difference in volts/current going to the relay, so why force yourself to work in the tiny space with very little wire slack and no chances to correct an error?

[geotherm]

Done. I used the tail light and everything works great. I removed factory spade connector at tailight, wired 'turn on' to tail light wire and installed new spade connector. Topped off with shrink tape. I used a posi-tap for tapping into high beam for my overriding dimmer from ADVmonster. Very pleased with the dimmable model 60s.