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Old 12-17-2012, 12:32 PM   #1
jules083 OP
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Need an idea on mounting a Givi plate to stock luggage rack

I'm brainstorming on how to mount this Givi monokey rack to my stock sportster luggage rack. The pictures pretty much show where everything needs to be, and you can see where the bolt holes are. I am a welder by trade and have a somewhat decent shop here. MIG and Stick, no tig capabilities. Have any needed hand and power tools.

I have an unlimited (kinda) supply of 1"x 1/8" angle iron and 1/8" steel plate here, and can go to Lowe's for anything else I might need.

Anyways, here's the pictures of what I'm working with:

Bottom of Givi mount, top of sportster rack:



From the bottom, where it needs to mount:




As mounted how it should sit:







Maybe build a frame to connect the two using some light square tubing, then bolt everything together? 1" by 1/8", make it square. Have 2 kickers coming off to catch the outside bolts, and both center crossmembers going across the sportster rack at the front and rear. Anyone see a flaw here, or have a better idea? I'd hate to spend all this time building this thing and have it not work right.


Maybe make it like this, only use straight lines?

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Old 12-17-2012, 04:31 PM   #2
Dave in Wi
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You could also just use flat plate stock, and order the Givi mounting bits. Check this thread for the secret Givi Code.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79750
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:29 PM   #3
Data
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Aluminum Bars

Most hardware stores carry 1" x 1/4" 6061 alloy aluminum bars in 4' lengths. Get one of those and cut a front and rear crossbar to fit between the two brackets and bolt the stuff together- it's quick, easy, light, cheap, and only raises the Givi bracket 1/4" above the lowest possible mounting.

If you don't like the result it is easy to change. There are plenty of more complicated and perhaps better ways to do this but simplicity is worth a lot.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:54 PM   #4
Beezer
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flat bar across the 2 forward points... 4 holes, 2 bolts in each bracket. or weld 2 ears on to the Harley rack.


then 2 angle iron bolted to the Givi & welded to the HD rack
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:08 AM   #5
sanjoh
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How about getting a different monokey mount?

This one should have mount locations that fit your rack. Drill holes, mount, RIDE.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:07 AM   #6
jules083 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
How about getting a different monokey mount?

This one should have mount locations that fit your rack. Drill holes, mount, RIDE.
That's a monolock, my case won't work with it.



You guys really think flat plate would be enough? It seems like there would be a lot of leverage and start bending the plate. That's why I was thinking square tubing. I've only worked on cars and trucks though, I've never really fabbed anything up for bike use.
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
That's a monolock, my case won't work with it.



You guys really think flat plate would be enough? It seems like there would be a lot of leverage and start bending the plate. That's why I was thinking square tubing. I've only worked on cars and trucks though, I've never really fabbed anything up for bike use.
With the proper thickness, bars are enough- plate is overkill. What is the strength in the rest of the system anyway ? Determine the "weakest link" in your construction and decide if you want the adapter to be the weakest link or not. If you use bolts instead of welds you have a lot more flexibility to change things later.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:51 PM   #8
sanjoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
That's a monolock, my case won't work with it.



You guys really think flat plate would be enough? It seems like there would be a lot of leverage and start bending the plate. That's why I was thinking square tubing. I've only worked on cars and trucks though, I've never really fabbed anything up for bike use.
Try this one



Givi E250
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:26 PM   #9
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yep

I think some bar stock should be enough, the original rack is supporting the weight, the bar stock is just positioning and securing the GIVI plate.
I would use SS bar.

S/W screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 06:30 PM Reason: missed something
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:04 AM   #10
jules083 OP
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The more I design this thing the worse it gets. Bolts are just in the worng place for the rack, it's not turning out like I want. I'm going to build the whole thing from scratch, it'll be better in the end anyways. Going to be a few months probably, I need to get the whole bike into the shop. The front of the shop is either mud, snow, or ice all winter. It's hard enough getting the KLR in, much less a Sportster.
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:42 PM   #11
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I would suggest that you get one of the racks which Sanjoh has already suggested. I've used a couple on my Land Rover.

They attach using the square washers which you can see just to the left of the wavy brackets in Sanjoh's picture. Those square washers will fit into any of the recesses in the rack itself (they look to be diamond shaped in the pic, but are in fact square), so you have considerable flexibility in bolt placement.

All you would need to do is drill four appropriate holes in your existing standard rack and bolt the new Givi rack on top.
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:53 PM   #12
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
You could also just use flat plate stock, and order the Givi mounting bits. Check this thread for the secret Givi Code.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79750
Or, cut it to fit mostly under the plastic mount, paint it black and be done.

Jim
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:04 PM   #13
High Country Herb
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You're on the right track, don't give up.

I went through a similar process mounting my Monolock to a Krauser rack. I used 1/4" aircraft aluminum plate to do it. I laid the Givi rack on the aluminum, and traced it with a pencil. Then I cut the plate to that shape. (damn that stuff is hard!) I filed the aluminum until it was exactly the same shape as the Givi rack. I used v-head stainless allen bolts sunk into the aluminum to keep the top nice and flat. Then I drilled the aluminum plate to bolt the Givi rack on top. The whole thing is very solid now. The adaptor plate I made is a bit heavy considering it is aluminum, but lighter than steel. I probably could have used 3/16" plate and been just fine. All you can see is a 1/4" spacer (painted black) between the Givi and Krauser racks. Perfect!

I don't have web based photo hosting, so I hope my description will be enough to go on. If not, PM me an email address. Good luck!
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:07 AM   #14
dman
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+1 on sanjoh's suggestion. Those Givi plates are pretty cheap and can be moved from bike to bike as needed also. Just attach it to the rack with all 4 screws and spread the attachment points out as widely as your rack allows. I am a mechanical engineer and have never done any stress analysis of topcase mountings .... I just look at it this way: the Givi cases attach with 2 small-cross section plastic tabs plus one latch, all fastening to a plastic case. Almost any rack mounting points that are aluminum or steel (for example the 1x1/4" aluminum someone mentioned) is far stiffer and stronger than the plastic even if it's cantilevered out an inch or two from the rack.

-dman
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:06 AM   #15
High Country Herb
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Quote:
Originally posted by dman

Just attach it to the rack with all 4 screws and spread the attachment points out as widely as your rack allows. I am a mechanical engineer and have never done any stress analysis of topcase mountings .... I just look at it this way: the Givi cases attach with 2 small-cross section plastic tabs plus one latch, all fastening to a plastic case. Almost any rack mounting points that are aluminum or steel (for example the 1x1/4" aluminum someone mentioned) is far stiffer and stronger than the plastic even if it's cantilevered out an inch or two from the rack.
I think the problem is the metal rack only lines up with the Givi rack enough to give 2 mounting points, with the plastic about 50% cantilevered. An adaptor plate can be made to cover the whole base of the plastic.

I posted my pics to another site that can host them. Here is my home made adaptor plate:





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