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Old 01-02-2013, 03:43 PM   #61
tdcarter
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Here is an idea.. not that I don't think you are building it right or with strong enough transistors.. and maybe this will compromise integrity.

How about slots that would allow the owner to insert a fuse that once inserted would jumper from to source to gate on each channel? Last ditch 'stuff happens' emergency repair measure without having to do hardware re-wiring in the field.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:23 PM   #62
Cromoth
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Laugh interested

put me on your PM list when you have a final-ish block.
Currently using: WR250R w/heated gear, 12VDC in tank bag for cell+GPS; sometimes charging vidcam.
Big fan of your work, rock on!

Have you heard of the various crowdfunding sites, if you need to tap the social network for startup funds ($25K)?
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Two wheels move the soul." http://ridingacross.com/
Three move you & the dog!

Cromoth screwed with this post 01-02-2013 at 04:25 PM Reason: add text
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:16 PM   #63
dnrobertson
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Software guy here, not hardware so excuse the stupid question.

Will any of the features mentioned allow me to control my heated grips like a heattroller(sp ??)?

If so, will I be able to attach a rotary type switch to do the controlling, or will I need to whip out my smartphone everytime I want to change the temperature?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:24 AM   #64
tdcarter
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New thought on a feature.
- Ability to sense voltage and adjust/trip circuits as user programs.

Two examples:
1) Sense the voltage to tell if bike is running or just key is on. How used? Glad you asked. In case of HID lights. Do not turn them on until the bike has started, saves the ballast from suffering through sags in the voltage during starts. Below 13.6 volts, don't turn on the circuit. But once on, leave on till bike is turned off or user selects off, latching need in case of situation below.

2) Shed a load when voltage drops. How used? Have some circuits, like those on the PWM side used for heated gear, go to a lower level or shut off completely if the voltage drops down while engine is running. Like when you pull up to a stoplight and have to idle. Running voltage starts dipping below 13, start shedding loads. Matbe set the load shed up with priority, allow user to select to turn off heated gear before LED's, or pants before jacket before grips before gloves...

T
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:28 AM   #65
craftycoder OP
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Voltmeter is already in the design. Example 1 is on the list already, example 2 is interesting and will be considered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
New thought on a feature.
- Ability to sense voltage and adjust/trip circuits as user programs.

Two examples:
1) Sense the voltage to tell if bike is running or just key is on. How used? Glad you asked. In case of HID lights. Do not turn them on until the bike has started, saves the ballast from suffering through sags in the voltage during starts. Below 13.6 volts, don't turn on the circuit. But once on, leave on till bike is turned off or user selects off, latching need in case of situation below.

2) Shed a load when voltage drops. How used? Have some circuits, like those on the PWM side used for heated gear, go to a lower level or shut off completely if the voltage drops down while engine is running. Like when you pull up to a stoplight and have to idle. Running voltage starts dipping below 13, start shedding loads. Matbe set the load shed up with priority, allow user to select to turn off heated gear before LED's, or pants before jacket before grips before gloves...

T
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:33 AM   #66
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I don't think knobs are necessary for this. The system is designed so that you can use a momentary button to change a circuit between preset duty cycles (read temp levels). So you can cycle between say, 0%, 50%, & 100%. The indicator LED will blink telling you the circuit affected (by color) and the duty cycle selected (by blink speed).

Like the single channel board in the attached video.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
Software guy here, not hardware so excuse the stupid question.

Will any of the features mentioned allow me to control my heated grips like a heattroller(sp ??)?

If so, will I be able to attach a rotary type switch to do the controlling, or will I need to whip out my smartphone everytime I want to change the temperature?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:45 AM   #67
tdcarter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craftycoder View Post
Voltmeter is already in the design. Example 1 is on the list already, example 2 is interesting and will be considered.
Cool. Saw you were adding in the voltmeter part (since it is already on most PICs/processors) didn't know you were adding it into the user programmable part, but good. Much better then just using a delay timer function.

The load shedding would be nice, I've done it with analog discrete designs, but it's a pain.

Looking forward to the final... will let you get back to it... if I don't come up with some more dream list things.
T
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:47 AM   #68
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That would definitely compromise the integrity. When you see how these are built, I think you will be pretty confident in it. A lot of testing will be done as well. Its a two board design, the power board will contain a ton of copper for current capacity and thermal mass. The prototypes have 12oz of copper foil but I will build them for production with at least 24oz of copper foil as well as a bus bar and I will wave on piles of molten tin on the bottom as well. The controller board is a standard PCB but I've put a lot of energy into clamping transient voltages so that the semiconductors don't get grenaded. If I'm not confident these things are robust, I'm not going to build them because they are going to cost me just about all I have to build them in enough quantity to make them affordable for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
Here is an idea.. not that I don't think you are building it right or with strong enough transistors.. and maybe this will compromise integrity.

How about slots that would allow the owner to insert a fuse that once inserted would jumper from to source to gate on each channel? Last ditch 'stuff happens' emergency repair measure without having to do hardware re-wiring in the field.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:07 PM   #69
tdcarter
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Quote:
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I'm not going to build them because they are going to cost me just about all I have to build them in enough quantity to make them affordable for you.
I was just more thinkng along the lines of computer glitch, voltage spike, or severe impact takes out the cpu or a transistor just has a case of early mortality. Having some way that could allow the user to bypass the FET's on a particular channel and just feed power full on through. At first I thought of a dip switch, but they wouldn't handle the amperage. So then I thought maybe fuses could be used as an emergency jumper/splice into a recessed slot. And by using a fuse you save your own hide in case that channel died from an overdraw of current.

And as I write this.. I'm thinking that I could always just build myself a bypass kit (short piece of wire with a fuse holder, high amp and a low amp fuse) and carry along. Not that I don't trust you...
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:17 PM   #70
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The FETs I chose can handle current spikes above 1400A. That is not a typeo, one thousand four hundred amperes. They can each handle 100A constant current and there are 8 and I will limit each to 15A. These power FET's will not be blown up by anything short of armageddon. They have incredible temperature characteristics as well. My main concern is the load switches blowing up due to transients but I've got clamps all around them so I think they will survive. Time will tell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
I was just more thinkng along the lines of computer glitch, voltage spike, or severe impact takes out the cpu or a transistor just has a case of early mortality. Having some way that could allow the user to bypass the FET's on a particular channel and just feed power full on through. At first I thought of a dip switch, but they wouldn't handle the amperage. So then I thought maybe fuses could be used as an emergency jumper/splice into a recessed slot. And by using a fuse you save your own hide in case that channel died from an overdraw of current.

And as I write this.. I'm thinking that I could always just build myself a bypass kit (short piece of wire with a fuse holder, high amp and a low amp fuse) and carry along. Not that I don't trust you...
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:10 PM   #71
steve_k
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It keeps getting better. Keep it up!
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:19 PM   #72
tdcarter
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Can you limit the current flow on each FET channel? Can it be user programmable?

In the right appliation... use it as a build basis for LED drivers that limit it... and then I could use that to test how far I can push an LED on overdrive.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:10 PM   #73
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It will be setup like a circuit breaker. The user will, via their phone, set the maximum current allowed per circuit (each circuit has it's own current limit). I'll give it a a time characteristic like a fuse so it can over current for a few seconds before shutting down. The plan was to then require the user to reset it via the phone of by cycling the bike power.

There is no reason why this circuit couldn't be a constant current supply as well. I'd have to check the speed at which I can query the ADCs effectively. If I can set it up so that you can have a circuit auto reset indefinitely that will give you a constant current supply. You won't get a circuit breaker in that case though. I am doubtful of the performance of the ADCs to think this is possible. We will just have to see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
Can you limit the current flow on each FET channel? Can it be user programmable?

In the right appliation... use it as a build basis for LED drivers that limit it... and then I could use that to test how far I can push an LED on overdrive.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:24 PM   #74
tdcarter
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There is no reason why this circuit couldn't be a constant current supply as well. I'd have to check the speed at which I can query the ADCs effectively. If I can set it up so that you can have a circuit auto reset indefinitely that will give you a constant current supply..
Would be cool if possible, and that would be the preferred method for proper LED dimming, vs pwm. But I'll take a version either way. If the constant current works then we could eliminate the buck pucks/drivers from our LED ligts and save a few percentage points if efficiency. And make building your own lights, or upgrading lights, mucho easier.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:30 PM   #75
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The constant current waveform will just be a PWM waveform. If I were setting this up, I'd use a current limiting resistor to protect the diodes and use the standard PWM signal to dim them. That may be obvious as I always design these things with myself in mind as the first customer. I don't know what a buck puck is but I assure you the only thing you need to run LEDs other than this box is a current limiting resistor setup so that the maximum current allowed through the circuit is <= the max through the LEDs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdcarter View Post
Would be cool if possible, and that would be the preferred method for proper LED dimming, vs pwm. But I'll take a version either way. If the constant current works then we could eliminate the buck pucks/drivers from our LED ligts and save a few percentage points if efficiency. And make building your own lights, or upgrading lights, mucho easier.
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