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Old 01-03-2013, 03:53 AM   #61
marty hill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
If one takes the time to PROPERLY clean the mounting face of all grit and oil, there is no residue. Any drips of oil will be in one spot and not spread evenly on the flange face.

If it worked for you Kyle, you got lucky.
Correct, you beat me to it. Even his interval for changing is wrong. Looks like an ad for his fave oil.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:23 AM   #62
qman8 OP
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Eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbillypolack View Post
Do I even have to ask if you were using a filter wrench?

There's not enough purchase on the sides of the filter to get a strap wrench on, or a ChannelLock without rashing up the castings of the engine.

Chisels? Screwdriver poked through? Jeebus.

If you do your own oil changes, invest $15 in one of these and save yourself the agony next time.

BTW, (JVB, chime in here), be sure to slick the gasket with a drop of oil, and torque to proper specs.

This tool is $45 USD at the dealer!!!!
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:28 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by Britome View Post
I see no reason why the 3 finger tool wont fit. You don't have the tool that is referred To or you don't know how to use it. Your problem is solved in 30 seconds. I've used that tool numerous times on 1150's and 1200's for me or my friends.
As I stated previously, the 3-finger tool (from Autozone) fit...but when i put a bunch of torque on it with a 1/2" ratchet, one finger bent and then snapped off! Trust me...this sucker is ON there!
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:48 AM   #64
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qman8 View Post
This tool is $45 USD at the dealer!!!!
Use the alternative, now available at places like Autozone. I use a www.marcparnes.com unit that is about $25, but machined out of solid aluminum.

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Old 01-03-2013, 07:33 AM   #65
H96669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qman8 View Post
This tool is $45 USD at the dealer!!!!
Cheaper at Beemer Boneyard or go to an autoparts store and ask for a Lisle 54760, about $10.00. KD Tools also has the same, forgot to lift the number when I was at the autoparts store.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:59 AM   #66
bigjohn66
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A friend just traded for an 1100GS and when he got it home he wanted to change the oil. By the time he had called me to ask how to remove the old filter it was too late to try the screws-through-the-metal-cup trick. When I first saw it the whole bottom of the filter was mangled and half gone. All I could think to do at that point was to remove the innerds and try to remove the top threaded plate somehow. This filter turned out to be a Walmart SuperTech brand and was actually quite well made. I had originally thought it was a BMW one because of the black paint on the can and the quality of the filtration material.

We first tried tapping it out with not a chisel (too short,) but an old stout but longish screwdriver using one of the oil inlet holes forming a ring in top plate. The problem with a chisel on these is that because of the recessed area you only get a bad angle and you need to limit your applied force for fear of going through the top plate and damaging the crankcase. This was a real fear after reading some time ago the story of someone who punched a hole through the filter and into the motor. Also, because of the rubber square sealing o-ring, much of the force is absorbed and we got no movement of the plate. I made witness marks with a sharpie on the center oil outlet and the adjacent part on the filter plate so I could tell if I started getting movement. Hammering got none.

My next (and successful) idea was to plug the center outlet pipe with a clean rag and then carefully drill
two opposite inlet holes out to 1/4". Be very carefull not to go too deep. Just barely through the top plate, no more. This allowed me to insert into them a pair of strong screwdrivers and then angle them against one another to twist on the plate. This took considerable force but ultimately worked. The square o-ring was mushroomed on top where the filter had been torqued extremely tightly. Never seen one done that hard. Had this been at my house I probably would have made up a tool similar to one earlier described that would have had a nut welded to a circular plate with pins set into the other side to engage the inlet oil holes. Hope this helps by giving different ideas.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:03 AM   #67
kimokk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qman8 View Post
This tool is $45 USD at the dealer!!!!
Still cheaper than taking it to the dealer to have them remove it now after buggering it all up!
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:27 AM   #68
GSgeorge
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Originally Posted by johnny80s View Post
Works every time on every bike I have owned.

Johnny80s is right! I use these almost every time i remove a filter,Channel Lock 460 model. Just remove the skid plate mount,and they will get in there just fineThey are 16 1/2 inches long
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:19 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by marty hill View Post
Correct, you beat me to it. Even his interval for changing is wrong. Looks like an ad for his fave oil.
You're right...I always run mine 10,000 before changing..throwing good oil away is silly.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:27 PM   #70
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VEGASGSA View Post
..throwing good oil away is silly.
....and costly.

Good oil lasts ~10,000 miles in a boxer and costs about $25.00 for a gallon jug. With a filter (~$10.00) you're looking at $35.00 for an oil change.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:38 PM   #71
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If you really are going to try and chisel or punch or whatever to remove what's left of the filter, you might want to give some thought to laying the bike on its' side. With the bike on a center stand, even if you have a lift table, it's going to be pretty difficult to hit a chisel or whatever so that the force is not going up, which would be a bad thing. Laying the bike down will give you a much better view of what you are doing.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:50 PM   #72
WindSailor
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Just to stir this a little more...

Try some heat - heat up the base of the filter and try it again. Maintain constant pressure and wait (too much heat I think would or could actually be worse than not using it - so be careful).

Most of my rubber seals remain on the base anyway (and it is lubed prior to installing)... so if you can break the seal on the filter itself you might be able to get it off.

Seriously I had to use the custom fluted wrench with another one similar to a big set of needle nose pliers at the base to get the first one off. Don't get the plastic fluted ones some dealerships sell - done that route.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:35 PM   #73
qman8 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSgeorge View Post
Johnny80s is right! I use these almost every time i remove a filter,Channel Lock 460 model. Just remove the skid plate mount,and they will get in there just fineThey are 16 1/2 inches long
Looking at the picture on page 2 of this thread, and my own experience, I really can't see how you'd ever get those channel-locks on opposite sides of that filter! Hell, you cant even get a thick strap wrench between the cooling fins and the filter!

Are you saying that you can get enough grip on the exposed (about 90 degrees or so) of the outside of the filter??
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:38 PM   #74
qman8 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WindSailor View Post
Just to stir this a little more...

Try some heat - heat up the base of the filter and try it again. Maintain constant pressure and wait (too much heat I think would or could actually be worse than not using it - so be careful).

Most of my rubber seals remain on the base anyway (and it is lubed prior to installing)... so if you can break the seal on the filter itself you might be able to get it off.

Seriously I had to use the custom fluted wrench with another one similar to a big set of needle nose pliers at the base to get the first one off. Don't get the plastic fluted ones some dealerships sell - done that route.
Would you recommend a hot-air gun to apply heat?? Certainly dont think you'd want to use a torch!!!
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #75
GSgeorge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qman8 View Post
Looking at the picture on page 2 of this thread, and my own experience, I really can't see how you'd ever get those channel-locks on opposite sides of that filter! Hell, you cant even get a thick strap wrench between the cooling fins and the filter!

Are you saying that you can get enough grip on the exposed (about 90 degrees or so) of the outside of the filter??
Yes you can get a grip on the exposed part of the filter,I do it all the time.You just need a slight turn to break it free,I don't know how much of your filter is left,but its worth a try. You won't scratch the engine using this method,you may need to squeeze the filter if its bad,just be carefull.When you get it off,screw the next one on by hand(no tools).
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