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Old 01-04-2013, 09:40 AM   #31
chollo9 OP
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:31 AM   #32
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Poor thing!



This place is a freaking dump--I try to keep the farm outside but I keep tracking it in.



Still a big lump for a day or two. Doing nasty bathroom pre-paint prep for non-paying customer*.



Don't any of the bikes around here run? (Prototype for new dash under sheet in background).




*me
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:38 PM   #33
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I always find the strange ones.

Cleaned the shop, cleaned the engine, and pulled the RH head today. Planned to do more, but the head would not come off the studs. It would slide until about 1/2" still showed, and then stop. Hard. Metal against metal. Once I found it was the top right stud, I slid it back and forth a few times, not hard, and when I would push the head all the way in, there would be a very small aluminum sliver.

I wasn't willing to slide hammer it off, so I double-nutted the stud out and slid it and the head off together. Couldn't see anything through either hole with the stud in there, but I tried a couple different chemicals and working it back and forth hoping that maybe it was corrosion that was making tight clearances too tight. No luck.

So, all or nothing. I drilled a clearance hole in a pine workbench, slid the stud through the hole, let the cylinder head gasket surface rest on the wood, took a long 1/4" drift, and knocked it out. The first hit was surprisingly solid, and the rest were pretty good taps, but I had to push it 3/8" before it was free. The hole is clean inside, but it, and the one next to it, looks like it has a step in the bore, maybe they didn't go deep enough when it was machined. I'll just touch it up with a hand reamer and it will be fine.

I don't know about you, but here's what I'm thinking. I'm guessing that I'm the first person to tear this engine down since it left the factory (I don't know the bike's history). When it was built, Otto, the assembler, turned to Udo, the foreman, and told him the the head wouldn't slide onto the studs and should he reject it. Udo said, "Hit it with a hammer, it's 4:30"

More to come . . .
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:32 PM   #34
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Well, there's your problem. You got the broom with the bristles on the wrong end. That broom is for sweeping spider webs off ceilings. You need the broom with bristles on the other end for sweeping the floor.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:46 PM   #35
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Y'all yankees so smart. S'no wonder ah don' git nuttin' dun.

Damn, where mah other boot?
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:15 AM   #36
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Okay, am I just ignorant here? Should the sleeves that go in the head stud holes be removed prior to removal? Was this the source of my problem above?

I've never had to do anything extensive to airhead heads before, and my R75/5 heads came off and on easily.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:53 AM   #37
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Cylinder heads and cylinders have always pulled off after removing the 6 nuts. Never heard of a problem like you are having. You could take all of the studs off.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:31 PM   #38
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More of the same

More teardown today. Same issue with the stud holes on the left side--this time two would not slide through (I was mistaken in my prior post, when the head stopped sliding on the stud, it was well below the top surface of the sleeve. My recall wasn't too good last night after a couple of drinks ). Pic below shows how far they would go before stopping.




Same as yesterday, I had to drift them out. This pic shows the bits of aluminum that were pushed out.




Pulled the valves, and the suspect (RH) exhaust looks like crap:




So does the seat:




This is the left, for comparison:




I checked the exhaust guide play, just to see:








The left side was 12, for comparison.

I forgot to take a pic of the maxed out valve adjuster, but I think you know what that would look like.

Also got the cylinders and pistons off, but didn't have time to inspect them really. No obvious nastiness.

Gotta go work on other peoples' German junk tomorrow, but maybe I'll get in the shop in the evening.

Right now, I'm gonna watch recorded Supercross!

See y'all!
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:14 PM   #39
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No pics, but got the timing chain cover and chain off tonight.

No surprises, cover came off w/o heat, no heavy wear apparent, endless chain in place.

Cut chain off with bolt cutters--easy peasy, japanesy.

I'll get the puller and the heat ready for the top sprocket & bearing for next time . . .
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:00 PM   #40
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Those tight studs are what I call an anomaly alert. I haven't got a clue. I think you're right. Just knock them out and ream or round file the holes.

It is always fun to speculate on Otto and Hans at the factory.

Those seats look just fine, not sunk at all. Should dress up just dandy.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #41
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The only reason I can think of for these studs to be difficult is maybe they are bent? Like from a severe accident and maybe the damaged valve cover was replaced but everything else kept working? Check the studs for straightness. See if other studs fit better. ?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The only reason I can think of for these studs to be difficult is maybe they are bent? Like from a severe accident and maybe the damaged valve cover was replaced but everything else kept working? Check the studs for straightness. See if other studs fit better. ?
First thought I had, too (not the same route, but the same result). Rolled all three on a surface plate and they're straight.

The holes are just undersized, a relatively minor manufacturing error. Maybe they were machined right before a tooling swap.
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:30 PM   #43
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Ok
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:15 PM   #44
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Got a little more done today. But first, a couple of pics I left out previously. This is how close I was to running out of adjustment on the RH exhaust valve:




And the tensioner as it looked when removed:




Here's the puller set up and ready to remove the top sprocket. I pulled the bearing by itself with a heat gun and got it out of the way before I got started here:




After heat/preload/heat/preload/etc. it eventually slid off and looked like this:







Lower sprocket looks like so:




So, no drama here. Just a straightforward removal and clean up.

Next I need to check piston, ring, and bore wear.

See ya!
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:13 AM   #45
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Very strange, the undersize stud holes?!? Maybe the studs got wet, and swelled up?

I will popping off the top end of my bike soon. I am curious to see what the valves, seats, etc. will look like.

Thanks for the good write up, I've been enjoying it!
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