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Old 01-04-2013, 07:59 PM   #16
SR1
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Duh. Yes, I can do that myself.

Price man, price??!!
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:52 PM   #17
Quirky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR1 View Post
Duh. Yes, I can do that myself.

Price man, price??!!
It's not finished, be patient, an estimate only I copied & pasted from 3rd paragraph.

At the moment there is one option and it is a triple clamp/yoke but sells for $850.00 USD and then needs the same brand front mudguard which is another $225.00 USD which makes it a pretty solid investment in anyones language!!!
We decided that we would need to try and keep the OEM front guard and the price needs to be much better. We believe we will have this done, not easy but should be about half the price and use the standard mudguard with 15mm extra clearence for the wheel.

Did you notice the picture of the socket in the lathe that was machined down to fit the nut? Just checking
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Quirky screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 11:10 PM
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:02 PM   #18
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Very Cool. Real pretty design.

I would've suggested a tang on the leftside rear for a linear steering damper. The Paralever lever already has a location for the other end of the damper so if you put the tang on it would be easy to drill the lever and install a damper. Would it be possible to program that in?

Another point: From the looks of the last pitcher post, the top of the clamp has pockets milled into it that feed into the clamping area to the sliders. This could cause corrosion problems if dirt and water settle in there and are left for much time. No suggestions other than closing the pocket off before the slider clamp to avoid fusion of the slider to clamp.

Again, good lookin' stuff. I would R&R the ball joint myself...
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mark0ne View Post
Greg pretty close now mate! We will call you early next week!

The colours we have been thinking are the 2 we use on our steering dampers, gold from the RM2 or the titanium look grey from the Matrix SD unit. Like you to guys proved some like it to stand out and some like it blend in with bike!!!!

Not liking the Gold option.

The titanium grey is better.
Black I'm cool with also.

What about blue then?

Hey Vaughan
Do different colours cost more than others?
Do different annodised colours effect strength or problems with part integrity?
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:59 AM   #20
funsummer
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Quirky, news is out!!!

I would like to order mine with the new ball joint fitted.

Colour, dark is nice.
But gold would look good with matching woodys hubs, and would match my damper.
Mmm
Either way, I'm keen to get a clamp.
Will my tour tech steering stoppers fit the new fork clamp bolts?
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:05 PM   #21
Thunder Dan
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G'day Greg,

Nice work! will be good to see this fitted up to ya bike!

Vaughan,
Thanks for posting up the article & the pics. Interesting to see how much time / effort goes into R&D (10,000 + lines in the code!!)

Cheers,

Dan.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Quirky View Post
Not liking the Gold option.

The titanium grey is better.
Black I'm cool with also.

What about blue then?

Hey Vaughan
Do different colours cost more than others?
Do different annodised colours effect strength or problems with part integrity?
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:41 PM   #22
mark0ne OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcyclist View Post
Very Cool. Real pretty design.

I would've suggested a tang on the leftside rear for a linear steering damper. The Paralever lever already has a location for the other end of the damper so if you put the tang on it would be easy to drill the lever and install a damper. Would it be possible to program that in?

Another point: From the looks of the last pitcher post, the top of the clamp has pockets milled into it that feed into the clamping area to the sliders. This could cause corrosion problems if dirt and water settle in there and are left for much time. No suggestions other than closing the pocket off before the slider clamp to avoid fusion of the slider to clamp.

Again, good lookin' stuff. I would R&R the ball joint myself...
Hey mate, thanks for the feed back!

You raise a good point but I will do some split drawings and post them on Monday hopefully and that should show why we did it that way. Its a bit hard to explain but the way the top contor sweeps up from the out side edge it starts below the groove, in saying that I spoke with Mark yesterday and we will be able to make it wash out further and also we can drop some small water escape holes in there also.

Also where the relieving is meets with where the forks are turned back into a smaller diameter so where we relieve it should yes make more room for the dirt to get in but in our opinion it will escape much easier. At the end of the day I think it wont be a massive problem when you have a look at the rest of the millions of parts of the bike that can hold dirt and water and create corrosion this should be much less of a hassel as you can see if there is muck build up unlike places around and under the tank suspension engine and wiring harness.

As for the steering damper issue thats easy fixed, just visit our website
www.rallemoto.com

Thanks again for the feed back and we will take a look at adding some drain holes
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quirky View Post
Not liking the Gold option.

The titanium grey is better.
Black I'm cool with also.

What about blue then?

Hey Vaughan
Do different colours cost more than others?
Do different annodised colours effect strength or problems with part integrity?
Haha!! No problem to tell you the truth Im not a massive fan of huge amounts of crazy colours but thats just me!! I prefer the Titainium grey evey time!!

Gota ask though mate........ orange


To answer your other question, all anodising is the same as far as strength with colours, the annodise process is complicated but the colour is only the pretty bit! The hardness comes from the method tempretures of the acid tanks etc etc......

The colours dont cost extra if its a colour we do but as a 1 off it can add 100+ bucks depending on where you get it done. For us we get Gold, Black and Grey - sometimes a bit of blue and some red, BUT!!! we only do red on a special request and at the full responsability of the customer because to be honest its CRAP! Red annosise fades so bad when out in the sun, Red in general is the most UV unstable colour of the lot. Take a look at older red cars and Hondas the look pretty bad some of them!! We do injection moulding also and years ago when we used to mould a well know brand of handguards the red was alway the trickiest to get right.

Best option is to run a vote and we will annodise to the result??? Personally I reckon the Ti grey!!

Hope that helps mate! Im off to the beach
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:49 PM   #24
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Count Me In

If you can ship to the United States I'm in. My vote goes for Ti Gray or Black (as I have a Triple Black). Just ordered a Woody's 21" so I need it.

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:04 AM   #25
funsummer
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Just a quick question.

Does this clamp fit GSA as well as GS?

Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funsummer View Post
Just a quick question.

Does this clamp fit GSA as well as GS?

Thanks.
Yep! Same part #
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:34 AM   #27
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Quote : As you can kind of see there is heaps of work in coding this program just for stage 1 has over 10 000 lines of code. Once the code is written in the CAD CAM package then we spend extra time editing and looking for any small adjustments we can make to speed up the cycle time.

Impressive job, well done! But 10,000 lines of code? Man, that's a memory hog. Ever do any work with macro codes or sub programs for the repetitive stuff?
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by billdonna View Post
Quote : As you can kind of see there is heaps of work in coding this program just for stage 1 has over 10 000 lines of code. Once the code is written in the CAD CAM package then we spend extra time editing and looking for any small adjustments we can make to speed up the cycle time.

Impressive job, well done! But 10,000 lines of code? Man, that's a memory hog. Ever do any work with macro codes or sub programs for the repetitive stuff?
Thanks mate, Yeah the code is pretty long but most of that is made up in the .25mm stepover in the surface milling around the brake line mount. With look ahead it runs through quite quickly. On top of that the memory is huge so its not really an issue.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:05 PM   #29
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I find it very interesting that shops outside the U.S. are using Haas mills. I have over 25 of them, including mini mills and office mills and I think they're ok, but thier tool changers are junk. The control, software, and such are very easy to use, but they dont come near anything connected with Fanuc at all. I would think outside the U.S. you would opt for something from China, or Japan considering whats available. We also have alot of Robodrills w/ fanuc controls that are rockets at only 10 to 15k more (for us in the states) and they beat the Haas's in accuracy, memory, heartyness, and breakdown issues ( not to mention footprint, if you're tight for space ) by a mile. Worth a look if u can. Perfect for 3d machining.
Nice work tho, just the same. Keep go'n !
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:41 PM   #30
mark0ne OP
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Originally Posted by Armydad View Post
I find it very interesting that shops outside the U.S. are using Haas mills. I have over 25 of them, including mini mills and office mills and I think they're ok, but thier tool changers are junk. The control, software, and such are very easy to use, but they dont come near anything connected with Fanuc at all. I would think outside the U.S. you would opt for something from China, or Japan considering whats available. We also have alot of Robodrills w/ fanuc controls that are rockets at only 10 to 15k more (for us in the states) and they beat the Haas's in accuracy, memory, heartyness, and breakdown issues ( not to mention footprint, if you're tight for space ) by a mile. Worth a look if u can. Perfect for 3d machining.
Nice work tho, just the same. Keep go'n !
Dont know if thats really that important to do with this story?? But the Haas mills from some people cop a bit of flack around the place but to tell you the truth we have had very little if any issues with them, we have 3 of them and have had more issues with our Mazak (not to mention the cost to fix) and we also have had a SuperMax and a Leadwell over the years. The first Haas VF2 we bought is 10 years old and has run 5-6 days a week on a mixture of materials including lots of 10 000rpm work and still no hassels more than any other machines we have had.
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