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Old 09-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #16
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Nice ride report!! Looks like it should be one of my next trips!! Thanks for posting!
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:35 AM   #17
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Old 09-21-2012, 11:44 AM   #18
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great pictures and narrative.keep it coming.
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:56 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by bavarian View Post
Nice ride report!! Looks like it should be one of my next trips!! Thanks for posting!
I had a great time! I just wish I had more time to spend everywhere. I would definately go back!

Originally Posted by BenThere View Post

Originally Posted by lakota View Post
great pictures and narrative.keep it coming.
I appreciate it! I am trying to get it all done as soon as possible. Unfortunately I am getting ready to leave Stuttgart, soon. Too many things to do in my last week.
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:07 AM   #20
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Trogir to Dubrovnik

When I got up, I went for a walk along the Adriatic. I found a little coffee shop and had breakfast. While I was there, Elvis Presley’s “Suspicious Minds” came on the radio. Kind of a non sequitur, but a friend recently told me how when he hears that song, he pictures Sheldon from the Big Bang Theory mimicking Admiral Ackbar in Return of the Jedi, saying “It’s a trap!”. Youtube it- it is hilarious. I laughed at the circumstances and got strange looks from the waiter. What are the chances of hearing that song in Croatia?

The view from the café

Looking at the GPS, it was only three hours to Dubrovnik. I knew I would regret not riding there, so I headed out. Traffic through Split was terrible though. Two hours later it was still three hours to Dubrovnik. I tried riding the coastal road but the campers were going 20mph under the speed limit. With traffic in each town, I realized I needed to get off the coastal road. I headed inland to the toll road. Traffic was definitely much faster but I was disappointed I was missing the coast.

Stuck behind three campers…

The toll road ended and dumped me in a beautiful valley with fruit stands at almost every corner. I heard later that the fruit was amazing, especially the figs.

The valley

The temps kept rising as I rode through the valley.

I wasn’t expecting this…

I finally got around the campers!

After over five hours, I finally made it to the area outside of Dubrovnik. I found the campsite and went for a quick swim in the Adriatic to cool off. I showered and headed into Dubrovnik for the evening.

The bridge into Dubrovnik

There were big crowds in Dubrovnik. I thought I was joining a tour of the city walls but missed the fine print and got a tour of the city. That’s okay because the walls are closed at 7pm and I wouldn’t have had time to enjoy them. The tour guide was really interesting, though. I didn’t know very much about the area and he had great stories. The city walls were built in the 13th century and survived the earthquake of 1667. Almost the entire city inside the walls was destroyed except for two buildings. It was rebuilt but never regained the wealth or influence.

The Pile Gate and main entrance to the historic city

The cistern in town. People were drinking the water directly from it.

A stone protruding from the wall. Youths would try to balance on it to impress the girls. Over time the stone became polished and slippery. The wall is discolored from people’s hands trying to grip something as the balance. I didn’t see many people succeed in standing on it.

The narrow streets of Dubrovnik

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin

The Rector’s Palace

The square in front of the Rector’s Palace

The famous Octopus Clock on the tower of the Rector’s Palace

The skyline of the Saint Blaise’s Church

Sidewalk cafés all over town

Saint Ignatius’ Church

The front of Saint Blaise’s Church. There was a brass band playing Bon Jovi songs in the square.

The cistern after dark

A square and monument in town

Sculpture on the side of Saint Blaise’s Church

Stairs leading down to the Morning Market. Our guide said they are modeled after the Spanish Steps in Rome.

Outside the walls after dark
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:05 AM   #21
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Makes me want to go RIGHT NOW!!!
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by SR1 View Post
Makes me want to go RIGHT NOW!!!
I would recommend it! It is a beautiful country!
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:32 PM   #23
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Dubrovnik to Hvar to Salzburg

I only had three days left and needed to start making my way back. I would have stayed another day in Dubrovnik but I needed to get some mile behind me or the last couple of days would have been horrible. I had heard so much about Hvar that I thought I could make that one stop. I could catch the ferry at Drvenik to the east end of the island and could ride the length of the island to the city of Hvar. There was supposed to be a great campground just outside of Hvar, too.
As I left Dubrovnik, traffic was terrible again. I was stuck behind a camper again. When the road straightened out and I could see for a while, I accelerated to about 80 in a 50 and passed about 5 cars and the camper. I looked in my mirror to see when I could cut back and saw a police car only feet from my back with the lights on. I was screwed. I slowed down and pulled to in front of the camper. The cop moved like he was going to pull in behind me then accelerated around me and kept going. There was a second, unmarked squad behind him with a magnetic light on the roof. I saw a young blonde woman in the back seat, didn’t look like she was in handcuffs. My guess is they were an escort motorcade and I got very lucky. I decided to drive a little more carefully from then on.
I made it to the ferry stop in Drvenik but there were no cars in line. I thought that meant I had a long wait, so I took my time about getting the ticket. The attendant pointed me to the ferry waiting and said I needed to hurry. I ran back to my bike, realized everyone was waiting in a different line for that ferry and I was the first on.

The ferry

Pulling out of Drvenik

The roads along the spine of the island

There were beautiful, small towns scattered around the island. There don’t seem to be too many people living on the island for the land there.

The campground was beautiful. The attendant said they only had one or two spots left in the campground and told me to try to find something. One of the workers drove me around in a golf cart to show me what might be available. When I told him I would take the one spot near the reception, we went back and there were three more people waiting to look around. I jumped on the spot I saw.

Not much room left for another tent

Maybe one place left here but it is along the footpath down to the beach and there was constant traffic

I went for another swim and wanted to clean up before heading into town. The beach was beautiful. This campground was as nice as they said- “One of the best in Dalmatia”

The beach

I took the campground shuttle into Hvar Town. Hvar is allegedly one place people go to be seen. Two weeks after I was there, Tom Cruise showed up. It was amazing, too.

Saint Stephen’s Square and Cathedral of Saint Stephen

A Franciscan monastery in town

Looking over the bay

Along the waterfront

Don’t know what you have to do to get a boat this far from the water. I got the theme to Gilligan’s Island stuck in my head.

This surprised me. Then I saw the symbol in the middle for the Hajduk Split Football Club. Hajduk was the name of rebels or freedom fighters fighting Albanians or Hapsburgs, romanticized into Robin Hood types.

There was an incredible fortress on the hill.

The harbor and fortress

Saint Stephen’s Square

The next morning I had a lot of miles to travel.

The fortress the next morning

On the road to Stari Grad

Here is a panoramic photo of the same area

I was lucky and caught the 1130 ferry. There was a carload of people buying a ticket in front of me. The cashier told them there weren’t any spaces left and they would have to wait for the next ferry. I asked about a motorcycle and she sold me a ticket and told me to hurry. They were loading but it wouldn’t leave for another hour.

While I waited I took a couple of pictures including this one. The water has such a beautiful color.

It was a two hour ride to Split, Croatia. I got off the ferry and knew I had a lot of miles to cover, so I jumped onto the motorway as soon as I could. Traffic was good but I hit my high temp for the trip. I had 100 degrees on three consecutive days but on Saturday, I hit 101.

No one mentioned this!

I raced up the motorway to just outside of Zagreb, when I hit a three mile line for the toll booth. I sat in it for a while then lane split to the front. I don’t think everyone was happy with me but I wasn’t interested in damaging my bike because Croatia didn’t think there would be a line at the end of the toll road. The worst thing is, as I continued through Slovenia and into Austria, I hit another incredible line for a toll booth. This one was over three miles at almost 10pm. I was also surprised to see the only drivers who were trying to block me from lane splitting had German plates.

I made it from Split to Salzburg in about ten hours even with gas stops and toll booths. I did not enjoy that day but I wanted to get to Salzburg so I could take a leisurely trip along the German/Austrian border on my way back.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:38 PM   #24
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You sir are very lucky to be able to do this. Thanks so much for sharing.

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