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Old 01-06-2013, 08:39 PM   #16
supershaft
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That oil could not only be from the tranny input seal but it could also be from the clutch rod. You need to look at ALL the possibilities. It might be from the RMS too. I can't tell from those pictures. If that isn't the original seal it is the original type. The later types are SO much better. I would replace it. I would be tempted to replace that original oil pump cover for the same reasons. Plus it very well could be a big source of the oil.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:24 PM   #17
ME 109
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My later type oil pump cover sent me on a freakin' wild goose chase when it developed a hairline crack in the top left counter-bored hole.
It presented symptoms of a leaking rms or worn guide ring or guide ring o-ring.

I was advised (by GSPD) to run the motor without the tranny and clutch installed. Bingo! the leak identified itself almost immediately.

The earlier angled counter-sunk type covers could not present this issue imo.

I am proud to be the recipient of never before heard of airhead problems. True pioneering
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #18
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Make sure you chase out the bolt holes for the oil pump cover. Previous owners/mechanics may have used Locktite to hold the bolts. Since the torque is only about 7lbs, any interference means the cover isn't seated..and will leak...again.

Actually, I think you should use some blue so the bolts stay in place.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:11 PM   #19
supershaft
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I always heat them up in case some numnut has put red loctite on them. I always chase those threads. Not with a cutting tap but with a thread cleaner or a roll tap.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:22 PM   #20
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I always heat them up in case some numnut has put red loctite on them.
Ah, the joys of having the same motorcycle for coming up twenty years.
I know exactly what the numbnut has done.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:40 PM   #21
Kai Ju
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post

The earlier angled counter-sunk type covers could not present this issue imo.
Not so sure about that. I would think that an over torqued countersunk screw could cause a crack easier than a flat bolt head.
I realize that I'm comparing apples to oranges ( plastic vs. steel ) but I saw so many leaking neutral switch plates on RDs due to cracks from over torqued C/S screws. The key was loctite and just snug the screw enough to seat the cover and compress the O-ring. Let the loctite take care of the bolt retention.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Not so sure about that. I would think that an over torqued countersunk screw could cause a crack easier than a flat bolt head.
I realize that I'm comparing apples to oranges ( plastic vs. steel ) but I saw so many leaking neutral switch plates on RDs due to cracks from over torqued C/S screws. The key was loctite and just snug the screw enough to seat the cover and compress the O-ring. Let the loctite take care of the bolt retention.
The counterbore for the bolt head is what caused the problem. The bottom of the counterbore is ever so close to the o-ring groove on the other side. Perhaps my cover was somehow over machined bringing it too close to the o-ring groove.
Mind you, this cover was at least 25 years old and had only been taken off once. Possibly over torqued.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:25 AM   #23
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Woodly, don't know how far you are into the disassembly so apologies if this is 205. Please disconnect the neg cable on the battery BEFORE you remove the front cover. You could damage your diode board.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Not so sure about that. I would think that an over torqued countersunk screw could cause a crack easier than a flat bolt head.
I realize that I'm comparing apples to oranges ( plastic vs. steel ) but I saw so many leaking neutral switch plates on RDs due to cracks from over torqued C/S screws. The key was loctite and just snug the screw enough to seat the cover and compress the O-ring. Let the loctite take care of the bolt retention.
Yeah, but on an RD the switch is made of plastic!


Oops. Sorry for the drive-by posting there. I see you acknowledged the fact that it's plastic.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
hardwaregrrl Today 08:25 AM
Woodly, don't know how far you are into the disassembly so apologies if this is 205. Please disconnect the neg cable on the battery BEFORE you remove the front cover. You could damage your diode board.
The bike is totally disassembled at this point so the battery is long gone! Thanks for the heads up! I do have one question though, what is referred to as the RMS the rear main seal?
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:48 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by woodly1069 View Post
The bike is totally disassembled at this point so the battery is long gone! Thanks for the heads up! I do have one question though, what is referred to as the RMS the rear main seal?
Yep RMS = Rear Main Seal
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:51 AM   #27
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One thing. have you tried smelling the oil residue ? Transmission oil smells completely different from engine oil. That could give you a clue where it's coming from.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:17 AM   #28
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Not to beat a dead horse - but please be sure to check if the crank has moved forward as jackd prescribed. If it has not, block it immediately. If it HAS, I've read of a few last ditch tricks that may help you re-seat the thrust bearings. If that fails, unfortunately, it's time for total engine disassembly.

I got lucky in that I read about blocking the crank just before I got that deep into my engine.

For the record, both my rear main seal and oil pump cover were leaking, but then again, so was every gasket and o-ring on the entire bike!
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:38 PM   #29
supershaft
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Ah, the joys of having the same motorcycle for coming up twenty years.
I know exactly what the numbnut has done.
I work on them for a living.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:45 PM   #30
ignatz72
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I work on them for a living.
SS, Me109 was referring to himself - he is his own numbnuts PO.
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