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Old 08-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #16
Kevinhooa OP
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Location: Land of the blues - NJ
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An abundance of tips - thanks guys. My sidestand switch is already bypassed. I will check the clutch switch though, I should have thought of that the other day. Pretty much every electrical connection on this bike has dielectric grease in it, but sometimes the clutch switch along with some other connectors get sand in them. The clutch safety switch is a dumb design, and if it comes down to it, I could bypass it so it's not even in the equation anymore.

I actually did try and blow into the vent and vacuum lines on the carb, and air seemed to move through quite easily on the vent lines anyway. But once I found I had no spark, I figured I'd found the main cause of not being able to start, and decided to put off any further work on the carb.

I will keep checking the simple stuff, and then move on to multimeter the testing. Not sure if you guys saw what I posted above, but does anyone know what the multimeter setting be for testing the ignition coil? For some reason that is not in the steps in the Clymer like most other tests.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:22 PM   #17
Kevinhooa OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
You can test gas flow out of the pet cock by sucking on the vacuum line from to the carb to the petcock. That is what the carb does.

Try testing the blk/w wire with the ignition switch in the on position. It is grounded to the blk/yellow when off. It may make a difference.

I usually test for current first and you can do that with most multimeters.

I assume you know that the ignition runs off A/C power from the stator, starting with the pick up coil.
Ok, I'll try this as well. Your right, it might be reading nothing because it is in fact off and no current is flowing at all. I think I read no not crank it testing the connection as that could damage stuff, but with just the ignition being on it should be ok.
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:02 AM   #18
Kevinhooa OP
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Thanks again for the help guys.

I went back through the electrical connections and cleaned and re-greased everything. I also moved the kill switch back and forth a couple of times, as I think that one is the most exposed to rain and doesn't get used very often.

Bike fired right up. So somewhere, one or possibly more of those electrical connections was dirty or corroded, and that was preventing the spark. I guess it intermittently fired up as the connections got buzzed by the engine running, but would then loose the connection as the bike sat or got bumped. Either way, now I know what to look for first if the spark is missing, before I go hunting elsewhere.

I now only have to replace a clutch cover gasket within the next week or two and the steed should be highway travel ready. Thanks again.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:26 PM   #19
Kevinhooa OP
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Whelp, I think I spoke too soon. Seems it started again after I was done working on it, but it has failed to start 3 times since then.

I've gone through a couple more things since I discovered this last week. Double checked a couple more connections, re-greased and cleaned some more stuff. Sidestand switch is bypassed. Clutch switch works, and I was able to test this by jumping the contacts with the switch apart. Before I start testing other major pieces of equipment in the circuit...

Is there a way I can test the neutral switch? I was reading that there are three safety switches. If either the sidestand switch or the clutch switch is malfunctioning, the bike will not even turn over. However, if the neutral switch fails, the bike will still turn over, but not spark. Does anyone know if that is correct? Neutral light has been working this whole time (light goes out if it's in gear, on in neutral).

From there, I can start testing the resistance of parts of the ignition system and work my way from the spark plug back.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:40 AM   #20
Doc_holliday11
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06 Klr starting issues, could use some help

Hi There,

I have an 06 KLR that won't start and thought someone around here might be able to help me out. The problem started shortly after i replaced the battery, and went for a ride. The bike died about a block from my house, and I have not been able to get it started since. Electrically the bike seems fine, it turns over, and the plug has spark. However, it does not seem to be getting fuel. I have pulled the carburetor out twice and cleaned the main jet and the pilot jet, but to no avail as the engine does not seem to be getting fuel. I have an inline filter so i can see that it is operating correctly drawing fuel to the bowl when i turn it over, but when i pull the plug after trying to start it its dry as a bone.

I have talked to my local Kawi shop and they were as stumped as i was...

Suggestions?
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:21 AM   #21
SkiBumBrian
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Pinched vacuum line? Check for fuel in the bowl (little screw right side of bike, bottom of bowl). If fuel, should start. If not probably pinched line, either fuel line or vacuum line from petcock.
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
ADW
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Bypass kill switch

For Kevinhooa: take the kill switch out of the loop. Black/yellow and black/white wires I believe.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:36 PM   #23
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
Pinched vacuum line? Check for fuel in the bowl (little screw right side of bike, bottom of bowl). If fuel, should start. If not probably pinched line, either fuel line or vacuum line from petcock.
+ 1.

Unlikely, given the carb take-down, but . . . float valve could be stuck CLOSED (they ususally stick, OPEN).

ADW, could be the kill switch, but . . . ordinarily, when the kill switch is in the OFF position, starter will not operate.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:44 PM   #24
Indy Unlimited
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If all else fails buy a new spark pug cap and lead wire.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:30 PM   #25
Kevinhooa OP
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Thanks for the replies. It's been a while since I checked back. Had another kid, built a couple hundred feet of fencing, cranky wife, ect, ect....

I was able to tinker with the bike a couple weeks ago. I tried to start the bike and nada. I then took the cover off of the countershaft sprocket and moved the wires around a bit checking for chafed wires. Out of curiosity I tried to start the bike and it fired right up. I let it run for about 20 minutes. It hasn't been started since November since my last day of wrenching on the pig.

I think I'm going to have to take the side cover off to see if something is loose on the inside. I have an extra gasket just incase. An oil change prob wouldn't hurt either.

Weird part is, I gave it gas while it was running and it dies nearly instantly. Not sure about that part. I'll have to google some carb fault symptoms to see.

I'm in the process of building a shed out of pallets, so hopefully soon, I can wrench on the bike without having to worry about getting it all back together. I can't usually leave the house too much otherwise I'd be at a buddies house. New baby is cranky as all hell.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:44 AM   #26
Kevinhooa OP
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Finally got this all sorted out. It was a faulty chassis ground and a plugged pilot jet that happened at the same time.

The frame at the ground had a layer of rust with some scratch marks in it that only conducted electricity when the frame was flexed a bit. Making it so it would only start sometimes, mainly when I would sit and try to start it or the bike was leaning on the side stand really hard.

I had cleaned the carb several times and removed and checked all sorts of thigns. I did not however, ever take out the pilot jet which had just enough crud in there to bugger up everything.

I then replaced all the old gas and ran if for a while to get things flowing smoothly again. Rode it to work twice so far and all is well. Thanks again for all the help and troubleshooting fellas.
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