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Old 01-07-2013, 07:12 AM   #16
Northstar Beemer
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Hmm -

In 2009 I rode from Chicago to Deadhorse - carried TCK 80s on the back and swapped road rubber for the TCKs at Watson Lake for the 3000 or so miles of gravel we rode.

Total trip milage was 11,400 miles - so a lot of highway miles. I'm going back again - could a new pair of Heidenau K60s handle whole trip mounted on a 1200GS?

'Sure would be easier than strapping tires to the back of my bike again!

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Old 01-07-2013, 07:52 AM   #17
Ceri JC
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On the subject of tyre pressures. I'm no expert, what has worked for me in general:
  • Use your initial value as the recommendations from the tyre manufacturer, rather than the bike/car itself.
  • If you're carrying a pillion and/or heavy luggage, increase the rear tyre pressure by about 3-4 PSI and the front by about 2 PSI.
  • You don't need to drop pressures in dirt anywhere near as much as people make out, unless you're racing or riding trials.

People who ride with me offroad are usually staggered by how high I tend to run my tyre pressures. I very often run road pressures the whole time on a DS bike. Sometimes I'll drop to 26/30, or even 24/28, if I'm riding offroad for protracted periods and reinflate it later, but generally, it's high. My reasons for this are:
1. A significantly under-inflated tyre on the road is far more of a liability than one that is over-inflated offroad.
2. I like to have "something in reserve". I like to know that if I get stuck, or am really struggling on a trail, I can drop the pressure and get more grip. To quote the old adage, I tend to run them "As high as possible, as low as necessary."
3. I don't have rim locks on my GS; I've never run tyre pressures low enough on it to warrant them.

YMMV.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:42 AM   #18
Loutre
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another one posting about the boxer in the // universe in 24h? what's wrong guys? Don't they accept you anymore in the boxer section?
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #19
CrustyOldFart
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"You don't need to drop pressures in dirt anywhere near as much as people make out, unless you're racing or riding trials."

What ??!!!?? There's a lot of different kinds of dirt out there, and same kinds of dirt that behaves much differently depending on current moisture content. You may be right in many circumstances, but I try to avoid blanket statements like that.

I'm a new GS'er but been riding dirt pretty much my entire life. I think ideal situation for me will be to mount a compressor tucked away in my bike somewhere wired to the battery with quick connect air line (I saw a thread where someone did this) so I can adjust on the fly depending on condition. It is really incredible how lower pressure can help when riding in soft, loose dirt or mud or deep silt or sand. Of course gotta watch out for rocks when air is down, I've dinged up plenty of rims too.

and pinched tubes too; that always fun changing a tube in the middle of the desert somewhere.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:00 PM   #20
vtbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northstar Beemer View Post
In 2009 I rode from Chicago to Deadhorse - carried TCK 80s on the back and swapped road rubber for the TCKs at Watson Lake for the 3000 or so miles of gravel we rode.

Total trip milage was 11,400 miles - so a lot of highway miles. I'm going back again - could a new pair of Heidenau K60s handle whole trip mounted on a 1200GS?

'Sure would be easier than strapping tires to the back of my bike again!

Yes but it will be close on the rear tire on the return trip

ps there are 3 or 4 places that will sell you new K60 in fairbanks and anchorage. when we were there last summer my friend had a set put on his GSA in anchorage with no notice we just stopped by. However, with my luck, I would call ahead a week or two and buy them so they will be there.

ps I used K60 for our whole trip on my F650GS, over 12000 miles on them, rear 1/3 left front not 1/2 worn out. This with a pretty good load and traveling 75-85 across the plains. the heavier big gs will wear them faster though
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:06 PM   #21
murph76
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k60s

this tyre is indestructible..............being lazy i never checked tyre pres. when i started riding again in spring - well i went all summer with no air pres. at all on these tyres and didnt notice it until in the fall some 2000 miles later when i checked it to air down for off road in smokie mtn area......................i about shit myself and my dad couldnt believe it..................surprised i didnt kill myself- oh well.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:05 AM   #22
Krummemusic
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taking a Heidenau on/off the rim

Quote:
Originally Posted by markregier View Post
I have 13,000 miles on a k60. It's still on my bike, but pretty flat on the riding surface. I mounted it up in Phoenix, rode to Costa Rica and back, and then a few trips from my hope in SLC to Moab a few times. Good on the highway, fine in the dirt. I don't think higher pressure is going to hurt that tire. In fact, sometimes I air mine down to do something softer like sand, and I can't even get the sidewall to flex and bulge like a normal tire might. All this is on my honda xr 650 L, by the way. You can always check the temperature after a bit of riding with your lady on board... if it's really hot, air up. Just my 2 cents.
Valued Forum,
I do hear a lot of good feedback on the durability, characteristics of the Heidenau. I a planning a long tour coming January (app 18,000 km) - not hard-core off road, but certainly bad gravel/stoney roads.
The thing I worry most are flat tyres - though I would know how to fix it, I would prefer to minimise the risk and hazzles
My questions:
1) Is the Heidenau particularly hard to dismount/mount (compared to e.g. TKC 80 ?)
2) Will it help if I put re-inforced tubes inside to minimise the risk of getting stranded with a flat tyre ?
Thanks
Uli
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Old 09-30-2013, 05:41 AM   #23
Snowy
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The one and only flat tyre I'd had in some total of 150,000kms of "dual sport" riding was with the K60 and a 3 inch nail.

Just bad luck.

It came off the rim nearly straight away, unlike some of the forum members who say you can ride them flat for miles and miles.

It was a bitch to dismount and remount. However, the next time I did it it seemed a lot easier. I think it can just come down to what happens on the day.

I've been in a hurry and mounting a particular brand of tyre has been near impossible. Then I've done the same brand when I was in no particular rush, and it went on easy.

When I removed the K60 for the last time it came off easy. It had been fitted and stripped 3 or 4 times by then though.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:55 AM   #24
20Fingers
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Cracked Lugs and Pressure

I put 9K on my last rear, upon completing a tour I noticed that the bases of the larger lugs, outside edges, had cracked. has anyone else experienced this?
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:57 AM   #25
MCMXCIVRS
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I had to fix a rear flat this summer and other than breaking the bead, the tire was not really that bad to remove, I really don't get all the complaining about these tires being so stiff and hard to work with. I only spooned one side off to let me get the tube out, but typically that is the toughest to do anyway, the second side for complete tire removal usually goes much easier on any tire (reverse for installing). I just pulled the small nail from the tire and put my spare tube in. I patched the hole in the tube later once I was camped so it was good for the next flat (not yet needed). The whole job took me about 1 1/2 hours from opening the tool kit to reloaded and ready to roll again.

Heavy duty tubes will help if you are running really low pressures for off road work as they will resist pinch flats better (when the tube gets pinched between the rim and tire hitting a rock or bump), but will do nothing more to resist punctures.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:38 PM   #26
Pabigwoods OP
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Changing Heidenaus

I am too lazy to go the garage right now, but I believe my bead breaker is a Motion Pro. It's a blue plastic unit with a wedge on one end and a round head for the hammer on the other end. I whack it with a rubber dead blow hammer. After I mounted my first set of K60's I bought it in case I needed it on the road. Used it when I changed to my current set of K60's. Once you figure out the correct angle to hold it at, I thought it worked like a champ. Bead breaks quick. Using the correct weight dead blow helps a lot too (also too lazy to go look at that) Relatively cheap combination to avoid hassles in the field. Takes up some space, but better than pulling your hair out with a bead that won't break.
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