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Old 01-07-2013, 09:32 PM   #16
ME 109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
If they are like most all BMW tube saddle bag racks, welding them will not work because they are brazed. Gas, stick, MIG, TIG will make a mess of them. For some reason, nothing but sloppy crap welds can be had anywhere close to brazing. They need to be re-brazed. I braze gussets on them and use the back cross brace. They crack all the time without them.
I hadn't considered that they were brazed to begin with. I've seen one rack repaired with braze..........prolly why it worked well.

Yes, trying to metal weld near brazing will be difficult. And it will be extremely difficult to remove all the braze from around a tube end.

Braze away.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ME 109 View Post
I hadn't considered that they were brazed to begin with. I've seen one rack repaired with braze..........prolly why it worked well.

Yes, trying to metal weld near brazing will be difficult. And it will be extremely difficult to remove all the braze from around a tube end.

Braze away.
I tried to warn one of my old aviation bosses that he should keep his welding rods and his brazing rods separated better and more distinctly. Shortly after I moved on he grabbed a brazing rod while welding on a custom bracket onto a longeron of one of the Travel Air biplane fuselages we had made from scratch. I sure am glad I was not there to hear the cussing!! If I remember right it took the two of us working full time about a month to make one. He had to splice that fuselage and I think he never sold that particular one. He was amazed just how far he had to get away from the brazing in order to get a good weld. I wasn't. I had run into that situation before!
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:20 AM   #18
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Charlie-
If you want to repair it instead of ebay a replacement, locate a BMX bicycle shop and ask who does their weld repairs. I lucked out and a BMX hall of famer, Gary Littlejohn, lives not far from me. He repaired my cracked subframe. Those guys are experts on tube weld repairs. Takes about 15 minutes for a guy who knows what he's doing.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:38 AM   #19
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Charlie-
If you want to repair it instead of ebay a replacement, locate a BMX bicycle shop and ask who does their weld repairs. I lucked out and a BMX hall of famer, Gary Littlejohn, lives not far from me. He repaired my cracked subframe. Those guys are experts on tube weld repairs. Takes about 15 minutes for a guy who knows what he's doing.
Thanks Bill,

I still have the racks sitting on the floor in my room. I looked at them again last night and now I can't find the part I thought was cracked. I'm going to figure this out before I put them back on. Seems that rust collects in the corners and it may not be cracked.

I have to get the rear wheel off and figure out some way to mount a tire. I've never been any good at doing this manually, never. But I think I'm going to try it again. I do this kind of stuff in the Winter because it takes me sooo long.

Only a couple of months and I have to find a job.

Charlie
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:40 AM   #20
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I was an AM radio Disc Jockey when I was in High School...
I didn't know that they had radio back then. I woulda suspected runners or smoke signals.

Heck, it's your thread on cracked racks so we can digress.

--Bill
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:48 AM   #21
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I didn't know that they had radio back then. I woulda suspected runners or smoke signals.

Heck, it's your thread on cracked racks so we can digress.

--Bill
Thanks Bill,

I am one of the most digressive ones around here I suppose. Don't mean to be distractive but I have a lot of Earth shattering things on my mind and even when I don't have a lot of Chaos going on I feel like I do.

It was a long time ago, How long ago was that? My time in AM Radio was the era known as the Birth of FM Radio. We called them the Album Stations, they played the whole sides of 33 1/3 albums. AM Radio was where the money was. "This FM thing will never go anywhere."

I did check my racks out again last night and now I'm not even sure they are cracked. Maybe I was fooled by the rust in one of the corners. If the Sun comes out this week I'll take them outside and be able to look more carefully.

Charlie
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
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When you have repaired the frames, I suggest that you fit it to the frame very well.
Rather than just forcibly pulling the frames into position with bolts, shim and bend each to fit closely.
I used rubber faucet washers to avoid metal to metal contact.
In this way, stressed tubes and bends will not suffer metal fatigue and cracking.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:02 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Thanks Bill,

I still have the racks sitting on the floor in my room. I looked at them again last night and now I can't find the part I thought was cracked. I'm going to figure this out before I put them back on. Seems that rust collects in the corners and it may not be cracked.

I have to get the rear wheel off and figure out some way to mount a tire. I've never been any good at doing this manually, never. But I think I'm going to try it again. I do this kind of stuff in the Winter because it takes me sooo long.

Only a couple of months and I have to find a job.

Charlie
Charlie

Let me know if you want any help changing the tire. I have a tire changer and tire irons.

Shane
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:13 PM   #24
disston OP
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Charlie

Let me know if you want any help changing the tire. I have a tire changer and tire irons.

Shane
Hey Shane,

That's really nice. I'll get together with you, I'll bring the wheel off the bike, before the end of Winter if that's OK? I'd bring the bike but I have to take the front wheel off to get the rear wheel off kinda thing.

Charlie
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
AM Radio was where the money was. "This FM thing will never go anywhere."
In those days that was a very true statement.

Radio was radio but AM was cheap, easy and traveled greater distances at lower power than FM. It was also MONO. FM was the new stereo and required expensive equipment to receive. Stereo was not making much 'headway' against mono. Then some guys were sitting around and said " TV is an FM media, why can't we use that???

Thusly was born Music TV (MTV) on the sub-channels now used by Digital TV and AM Mono is resting with the Dodo bird.

You may now resume discussing two wheeled apparatti
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:18 PM   #26
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Hey Shane,

That's really nice. I'll get together with you, I'll bring the wheel off the bike, before the end of Winter if that's OK? I'd bring the bike but I have to take the front wheel off to get the rear wheel off kinda thing.

Charlie
That's cool.

Shane
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:02 PM   #27
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I replaced the lid latches on my right side bag;



I used a piece of flat Aluminum from the hardware store for the reinforcement that looks like it doesn't fit. It actually works better than it looks but I will contour the Aluminum piece when I do the Left side bag. Then I can redo this one. It's a learning experience.

The latches had to still be shimmed a little on top of the Aluminum. The holding of the hook end is angle critical.

Will also take some better photos when I do the other side. Hopefully, if the Sun is out.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:36 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
a crack in the weld that holds one part of it together. It is cracked all the way through for almost one half of it's circumference.
If this crack is on a straight portion of tube, Home Depot has copper tubing repair sections that work really well as a sweated bridge for the break. It should not interfere with the luggage mounting at all.

In the following picture, you will both a crap weld and simple sweating of this copper repair section. Both have held up.

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 01-18-2013, 08:21 AM   #29
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RE: Rear wheel R&R. Pulling the front wheel is one way to do it. Less effort to just lay the bike on it's right side. Much easier to see what's happening and both remove and replace with much less stooping. Do clean and plug the trans vent in the spezial grounding bolt, or you will loose perhaps a tablespoon per hour of slow dripping of tranny oil.

Pull the valve stem, soft tire much easier to wiggle by the restriction.

Take the time to clean the wheel on the inside. Then smooth it all with 400 or 600 wet. Particularly the chamfer from the center drop to the bead rim. It will be far easier to clean next time, and rubber bits won't mate tenaciously, and difficulty to get a proper seating of the new tire will be greatly reduced in every case.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:12 AM   #30
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Thanks Doctor. I want to check and clean the front bearings anyway so I'll probably take the front wheel off. But it's nice to be reminded of these options.

I bought a whole bunch of 19" rubber wheel strips, that go under the tube, to protect the wheels when I did my front wheel last year. Now I wish I had bough 18" because I probably could have used them on both but the 19" up front and the 18" in the rear. What I have will maybe be too big for the rear? Oh well. I'll check and do it with electric tape if I have to.

I took my new lid latches apart and tried to curve the piece of Aluminum to fit better. Because the case is made of this hard plastic type material I will now not be able to get the Aluminum to fit better. The case has take a stretch to it and even after I recurved the part you see it doesn't fit any better. I'll do a better job on the left bag.
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