1995 R100R/GS Engine Cover

zenduddhist · 01-09-2013, 01:20 PM

Hi Folks,

I am doing a valve check on two bikes. 1995 R100R and 1995 R100GS PD. They both have oil coolers. On my R90/6, I just pull the valve covers and turn the rear wheel to move the flywheel to get to TDC. However, on the '95's, the manual says to pull front engine cover off so I can get to TDC from the front.

Questions:

Removing the front cover seems to be a pain because the oil cooler is in the way. Cover won't slip down behind the oil cooler. Do I need to remove the oil cooler?

Can't I just use the same method as my R90/6? Does the flywheel have markings on it for TDC, etc.?

If I have to remove the front cover, do I need to unhook the battery so the front cover doesn't short anything out on the front of the motor?

Thanks for your help...

Chris

KhaoSanMan · 01-09-2013, 02:15 PM

You should be able to use your same procedure from the /6 on the 95s, markings are there on the flywheel as I have a 95GS and have always done it this way. Putting it in 5th also helps if you aren't doing that yet, some choose to pull the plugs to make it even easier to rotate the engine but I've never had to.

Also, you should definitely disconnect the battery cable before removing any of the engine covers (when you actually need to do this), just in case.

ignatz72 · 01-09-2013, 03:37 PM

These are either/or procedures.

Wheel bumping with plugs out is quick and dirty, and safe.

Pulling the alternator cover is tedious and you *could* short the diode board this way if you don't disconnect the battery. Plus, your oil cooler is in the way.

At one point I read that the alternator bolt method is not preferred, but I forget why.

I always use the wheel bump.

chollo9 · 01-09-2013, 04:02 PM

Wheel bump fer me. Less stuff to remove, for one thing. I also don't like rotating the engine with that fairly shallow 6mm socket head, it's just not that substantial seeing as you have to reach pretty far and around a corner while you watch the timing marks.

zenduddhist · 01-09-2013, 06:05 PM

Thanks for the replies, guys.

In regards to using the allen wrench, I had heard some talk on the forums about snapping off the shaft while trying to rotate the engine...

I like rotating the wheel, yes in 5th gear, to get to TDC. Seems the easiest way.

01-09-2013, 01:20 PM	#1
zenduddhist ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Ohio Oddometer: 146	1995 R100R/GS Engine Cover Hi Folks, I am doing a valve check on two bikes. 1995 R100R and 1995 R100GS PD. They both have oil coolers. On my R90/6, I just pull the valve covers and turn the rear wheel to move the flywheel to get to TDC. However, on the '95's, the manual says to pull front engine cover off so I can get to TDC from the front. Questions: Removing the front cover seems to be a pain because the oil cooler is in the way. Cover won't slip down behind the oil cooler. Do I need to remove the oil cooler? Can't I just use the same method as my R90/6? Does the flywheel have markings on it for TDC, etc.? If I have to remove the front cover, do I need to unhook the battery so the front cover doesn't short anything out on the front of the motor? Thanks for your help... Chris __________________ 1974 Norton Commando Roadster 1975 BMW R90/6 1978 Yamaha XS650 Standard 2009 Kawasaki Super Sherpa 2010 Bonneville T-100 w/CSM Sidecar 2011 BMW R1200RT

01-09-2013, 03:37 PM	#3
ignatz72 call me iggy Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Mid-South, M-town Oddometer: 601	These are either/or procedures. Wheel bumping with plugs out is quick and dirty, and safe. Pulling the alternator cover is tedious and you could short the diode board this way if you don't disconnect the battery. Plus, your oil cooler is in the way. At one point I read that the alternator bolt method is not preferred, but I forget why. I always use the wheel bump. __________________ Current: 93 R100GS, 04 XR650L Prior: 73 CB350, 77 R100/7, 83 R100RT I love every motorcycle I've owned and even some that I haven't. ignatz72 screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 07:15 PM

01-09-2013, 04:02 PM	#4
chollo9 Screwed the Pooch Joined: Jul 2003 Location: Silk Hope, NC Oddometer: 511	Wheel bump fer me. Less stuff to remove, for one thing. I also don't like rotating the engine with that fairly shallow 6mm socket head, it's just not that substantial seeing as you have to reach pretty far and around a corner while you watch the timing marks. __________________ If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough When you get knocked down you gotta get back up, I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer but I know enough, to know, If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough

01-09-2013, 06:05 PM	#5
zenduddhist ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2010 Location: Ohio Oddometer: 146	Thanks for the replies, guys. In regards to using the allen wrench, I had heard some talk on the forums about snapping off the shaft while trying to rotate the engine... I like rotating the wheel, yes in 5th gear, to get to TDC. Seems the easiest way. __________________ 1974 Norton Commando Roadster 1975 BMW R90/6 1978 Yamaha XS650 Standard 2009 Kawasaki Super Sherpa 2010 Bonneville T-100 w/CSM Sidecar 2011 BMW R1200RT

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01-09-2013, 02:15 PM	#2
KhaoSanMan Airhead Joined: Apr 2009 Location: Chico, CA Oddometer: 513	You should be able to use your same procedure from the /6 on the 95s, markings are there on the flywheel as I have a 95GS and have always done it this way. Putting it in 5th also helps if you aren't doing that yet, some choose to pull the plugs to make it even easier to rotate the engine but I've never had to. Also, you should definitely disconnect the battery cable before removing any of the engine covers (when you actually need to do this), just in case.