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Old 01-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #51436
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
plug this into google maps 39.799272,-105.587929 ...
Oh my gosh... near Mt. Pisgah, I see...
I'm ready! Gonna put my gear on now...
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:55 AM   #51437
chipbl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn View Post
Have read about Dave's carb mods for 2003 and prior carbs. What about 2004 and newer? This PO of this bike de-smogged it, but left everything else stock. Stock pipe. Stock filter. Stock jets. It fires up and runs fine, but I have no basis for comparison and know uncorking the intake and exhaust always help.

So my question is, do the Dave's mods also apply to later models? If not, what are the recommended mods to making it a little richer? The plug shows me it is on the edge of lean. I'd rather start with the filter, removing the snorkel, and doing the pilot/main, but don't know if it needs the disc spacer on the needle. If possible I'd like to leave the stock exhaust, but am fully capable of making it breath a little better without the noise.
Shouldn't be any difference in model years. I think that may have just been the bike he had at the time to do the mods on. I did all of it exactly as it was laid out on my '08 with no problems and did the TAT through Moab that way. You could take a few extra jets for the high passes as I did have to pay a little extra attention to keep it running, but not mandatory. Who wants to crack open a carb on the trail anyway, unless absolutely necessary. Good luck and have fun!
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:03 AM   #51438
sc-razor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chipbl View Post
Shouldn't be any difference in model years. I think that may have just been the bike he had at the time to do the mods on. I did all of it exactly as it was laid out on my '08 with no problems and did the TAT through Moab that way. You could take a few extra jets for the high passes as I did have to pay a little extra attention to keep it running, but not mandatory. Who wants to crack open a carb on the trail anyway, unless absolutely necessary. Good luck and have fun!
I always crank my idle up in Colorado and that helps a lot.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:09 AM   #51439
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #51440
Jeff Munn
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Hey Jeff!
I'm very pleased to see you're going to take an XRL on the TAT! I think it'd be my choice if I could have anything. Any way I can help you just let me know. If you haven't seen it already, I suggest you check out the ride report on here by our neighbor and my friend XCrider (Denis). I like how he stitches together a ride report.
Will do. I've been reading a LOT of TAT reports.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
All the carbs take the same mods. But the difference in "uncorking" isn't exactly huge. It does make a difference if you really want to run full-bore, but who wants to do that on the TAT? Not me....
I am NOT a top end kinda guy. I don't even like going over 60-65 mph on the pavement anymore. I'd much rather go fast on dirt and in the curves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I agree with your plan of keeping the stock exhaust. While I appreciate the boost in performance, weight savings, and the throaty tone of my White Bros unit, the stock unit is less bothersome to others along the way. It's a benefit to be able to sneak around without people being able to follow you by your sound. And as Dave says in his mod, his particulars apply to a bike that's been opened up, that of course including performance aftermarket exhaust.
Loud pipes are obnoxious to me, and most non-riders. Like you, I'd rather be in stealth mode in the back country. Plus, I'm a little bit frugal and paying big bucks for a performance pipe is not where I want to put my money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
As for jumping into mods, I would be focusing on what particular weaknesses you have personally experienced and wish to address. These guys come a bit lean from the factory in order to pass exhaust emissions standards imposed by our illustrious Federal government. From my experience, what I'd do is exchange the stock #50 pilot jet for a #55, and see how she runs for you. Then based on your anaylsis of the effects of this change, you can refocus your efforts. I'm expecting you'd find this quite acceptable performance to run the TAT.
I think I'll try the #55/#158 with the clip spacer and see what that does. It is running lean, and is cold blooded. Will go with the UNI filter and maybe remove the snorkel. If I replace them I'll keep them in the kit for the higher elevations, if needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
What is your schedule & plan for running the TAT?
The trip is a graduation present for my nephew. He is 18 and needed a small carrot to get to graduation. We'll start in late June on the Outer Banks, literally riding in the Atlantic. Then head west and take the TAT to Oregon. Plan is to camp the majority of the time. His Dad will fly out to Oregon to meet us. We'll change the sprockets, oil, adjust valves, and put on street tires, then he and his Dad will ride back to Virginia on Route 50, and I'll fly home with the camping gear while they motel it. We're planning 5 weeks out, and two weeks back. Planned oil and tire/sprocket changes in Colorado, then again in Oregon.

I'm looking as much towards this ride as any I've ever been on. Only it should be easier with no border crossings, and not having to learn a new language! My normal ride is an R1150GS, but I think the XR will be better suited for this ride, especially out west.

If anyone has great suggestions about the TAT and mods on the XR for it, please let me know. Already have the Clarke 4.7 tank, rear lightweight rack, and a lowering link. Will be adding a bash plate, larger pegs, and some type of rear soft luggage system. Would love to hear what others have used and prefer.

Thanks everyone.

jeff
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #51441
mcma111
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Jeff,

You might think about redoing the seat on the XRL to something a bit more comfortable for the long haul.

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Old 01-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #51442
pngaudioguy
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Sourjon (sp?) did the TAT on an XRL last year, if I recall correctly. He might have some specific XRL pointers, and seems to stop by frequently.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #51443
Lonestar2112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn View Post
I think I'll try the #55/#158 with the clip spacer and see what that does. It is running lean, and is cold blooded. Will go with the UNI filter and maybe remove the snorkel. If I replace them I'll keep them in the kit for the higher elevations, if needed.

jeff
I did the mods and a pipe and went 55/160. Too much, I am going to go with 55/158 and see where that takes me. Maybe as low as 55/155 based on some of the reports I have read. I am at sea level.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:38 PM   #51444
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar2112 View Post
I did the mods and a pipe and went 55/160. Too much, I am going to go with 55/158 and see where that takes me. Maybe as low as 55/155 based on some of the reports I have read. I am at sea level.
Bob. We ride pretty much in the same areas. 55/158 shimmed needle, air box mod, header mod, uni filter is rt about spot on. you will be able to notice slight difference in the weather changes is all.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #51445
Lonestar2112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
Bob. We ride pretty much in the same areas. 55/158 shimmed needle, air box mod, header mod, uni filter is rt about spot on. you will be able to notice slight difference in the weather changes is all.
Right now she is a touch too rich. I am not getting a crisp response when I twist the handle. Maybe I am not twisting hard enough. I hope to have it sorted out by DV. If not, she will just have to be a bit rich.


It looks like there are going to be several Ls there maybe need to do a lineup for this page.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #51446
Ulyses
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Countershaft Sprocket and Chain Questions

So, I put on a new chain in Medellin, Colombia. Actually, I had a shop do it for me which I'm kind of regretting. After leaving Medellin, I checked it a few times and it was nice and tight. A few days ago, I went to check it and found it extremely loose! The tensioners were set at 20 and I had to bump them up all the way to 35 to get it tight! I have a feeling that the shop cut it too long.

After riding all day yesterday, I went and checked it again and found to be extremely loose, again! I did a closer inspection and noticed that the plastic guard at the front of the swingarm had worn all the way through and the chain was begining to score the metal of the swing arm! Yikes!

In any event, this lead to an inspection of the countershaft sprocket. I haven't really had to deal with countersprockets before; how much wear should it have before you replace it? I have some pictures, but the quality is low. If anyone can give me an assessment based off of these, I would appreciate it.



I have a few more questions about the sprocket: should there be any movement (play) between the sprocket and the countershaft? I estimate that I've got maybe a half-milimeter of play in this direction between the splines of the shaft and the splines on the sprocket:



And then maybe a milimeter of play between the locking splined washer thingy that keeps the sprocket on the shaft, and the outer splines of the shaft:



Also, the aforementioned locking splined washer thingy (what is the proper nomenclature for this thing?) looks like the inside of it's teeth are a little wore down.



Is this normal, or is it wear and should I be concerned? Thanks,

Ulyses
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:04 PM   #51447
kenny61
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put an xr650R sprocket on it. If its tight you mah have caught it in time. if its just floppin around it may be time for a new shaft
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #51448
Mossy-Back
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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
put an xr650R sprocket on it. If its tight you mah have caught it in time. if its just floppin around it may be time for a new shaft
I'm pretty sure his brother put a XRR sprocket on it before he left Oregon for South America...
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:41 PM   #51449
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
So, I put on a new chain in Medellin, Colombia. Actually, I had a shop do it for me which I'm kind of regretting. After leaving Medellin, I checked it a few times and it was nice and tight. A few days ago, I went to check it and found it extremely loose! The tensioners were set at 20 and I had to bump them up all the way to 35 to get it tight! I have a feeling that the shop cut it too long.

After riding all day yesterday, I went and checked it again and found to be extremely loose, again! I did a closer inspection and noticed that the plastic guard at the front of the swingarm had worn all the way through and the chain was begining to score the metal of the swing arm! Yikes!

In any event, this lead to an inspection of the countershaft sprocket. I haven't really had to deal with countersprockets before; how much wear should it have before you replace it? I have some pictures, but the quality is low. If anyone can give me an assessment based off of these, I would appreciate it.



I have a few more questions about the sprocket: should there be any movement (play) between the sprocket and the countershaft? I estimate that I've got maybe a half-milimeter of play in this direction between the splines of the shaft and the splines on the sprocket:



And then maybe a milimeter of play between the locking splined washer thingy that keeps the sprocket on the shaft, and the outer splines of the shaft:



Also, the aforementioned locking splined washer thingy (what is the proper nomenclature for this thing?) looks like the inside of it's teeth are a little wore down.



Is this normal, or is it wear and should I be concerned? Thanks,

Ulyses
The chain is probably still good. But that front sprocket is toast is most likely the rear is no good too. Put on a new set and you should be good to go. Also lube up the shaft when you install the new ones.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #51450
mcma111
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Did you install a O'ring chain or a standard? What brand? It could be that the chain you installed is a POS and is just stretching which will wear out the sprockets in no time at all. The counter shaft sprocket teeth look very worn. It isn't a OE sprocket. Don't worry about the keeper's teeth being worn. If you can replace the front sprocket and chain. Get the best quality O'ring chain you can find. Money well spent. What does the rear sprocket teeth look like?

Take a picture of you pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket at the 3' position. I would like to see how much daylight is between the gear and chain. A new chain should have none.
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