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Old 01-09-2013, 08:19 PM   #3526
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Tarded View Post
I do not see this screen (referenced above) anywhere... ...but I'm part blind so may not know where I am looking.
It is tiny. The bent steel tube that comes out of the carb where the fuel line enters from the tank, in the end there is a semi conical plastic insert, lever that out carefully with something sharpish. With the carb out you can just look down the tube & see if you can see any crud.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:08 PM   #3527
bmwktmbill
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Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
As long as your engine oil level is kept in the safe zone the rocker rollers get plenty of lube... There is a lobe pool under the cam shaft that the cam dips into on each revolution and splats a constant deposit of oil onto the rollers... I would assume that vapor spray within the engine plus oil pulled up from the bottom by the cam chain is what keeps the lobe pool full... I check the lobe pool when I take the valve cover off and to date it always has had oil in it which means the rollers were getting a good supply of lube...

When a roller does fail, it is usually always the one on the intake side... If you look at the exhaust roller you will see that it is approx 25% wider than the intake with longer needles providing a larger load bearing surface on the axle pins... This larger bearing surface on the E- roller will likely equate to twice the lifespan over the smaller intake unit...

Laramie experimented with adding an oil jet to the top of the rocker cover to spray the rollers but I don't believe he ever got his engine back together to try it... When you add this rocker cover oil jet you'll be robbing some stream from the supply that feeds the piston jet so I wasn't overly convinced that this was a good idea...
This analysis makes sense. A solid chromed pin and chromed sleeve in the roller would work, it could be drilled length ways with a couple of oil holes to the surface to increase internal lube.

The contact area would increase, the pin size could be maximized larger.

I'm not sure why KTM chose the system they did, perhaps valve overlap was a problem plus spring strength?, the whole engine is designed to rev quick and it does.

I watched a KTM factory mechanic work on my motorcycle at the factory.
The way he threw stuff away had me dumpster diving while he inhaled a liter of beer with lunch.
IMHO.
bill
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"On the road there are no special cases."
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The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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bmwktmbill screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 09:14 PM
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:38 PM   #3528
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
This analysis makes sense. A solid chromed pin and chromed sleeve in the roller would work, it could be drilled length ways with a couple of oil holes to the surface to increase internal lube.

The contact area would increase, the pin size could be maximized larger.

I'm not sure why KTM chose the system they did, perhaps valve overlap was a problem plus spring strength?, the whole engine is designed to rev quick and it does.

I watched a KTM factory mechanic work on my motorcycle at the factory.
The way he threw stuff away had me dumpster diving while he inhaled a liter of beer with lunch.
IMHO.
bill
KTM must like the follower roller design as they used the same system in the 690 but used shims on it rather than the bolt and lock nut for adjustment... Also they do not offer only the rollers for the 690, you have to buy the whole rocker arm assembly {$$$} when replacement time comes...
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #3529
HydroDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
I usually change out my intake follower roller along with rebuilding the waterpump as part of the 40,000 KM service... At this point I usually find that the water pump shaft is grooved from the seal rub but is still working well at holding the coolant out of the engine... Also I each time I have found the follower roller bearing to still be in good shape with minimal slop in the needles...

The last time I did my follower at 40,000 I found the unit was still like new so I swapped the whole arm and saved that unit for a spare... Fast forward about 20,000 KM and I could here a lot of extra noise coming from the tappet area so I opened it up.... What I found was a lot of slop in the roller needles so I changed the whole arm back to the previous roller unit that had 40,000 km on it... That roller unit now has 45,000 km on it and is still running along quietly... It's hard to explain why one will fail at 20,000 and the other will still be good at twice that distance...
I know back when I had my 01 Husaberg there was talk about the lack of cam roller longetivity do to reduced valve lash clearance in between valve adjustments. Reduced clearance equals more roll time. The other reason was poor heat treatment quality between batches of roller pins. Probably both bogus ideas.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:16 AM   #3530
hillbilly enduro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
The KTM roller axle pins seem to be quite soft, so installing a harder unit may work to extend the life somewhat...

Replacing the roller at every 25,000 miles is not that big of issue for me as I usually have the rocker cover off at that mileage anyways to rebuild the waterpump...
That's what I was thinking. I know It might not be a big issue changing them. But if you only had to change them every other time, then you'd save 100$ = more money for gas or other needed parts.

But still I hesitate a bit, as I'm afraid it would make things worse instead of better
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:02 AM   #3531
mgorman
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Originally Posted by hillbilly enduro View Post
Comparison with bicycle bearings is kind of useless, as those races is just a piece of pressed sheet metal, and not hardened...

On the average Huffy or cheap bicycle yes, but take apart a Campagnolo or good Shimano wheel hub and you will see a huge difference in quality, night and day different.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #3532
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbilly enduro View Post
That's what I was thinking. I know It might not be a big issue changing them. But if you only had to change them every other time, then you'd save 100$ = more money for gas or other needed parts.

But still I hesitate a bit, as I'm afraid it would make things worse instead of better
The hell of it is you never know when it will happen. I had one start to go at 15K miles. I felt lucky to find it.
bill
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"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:39 PM   #3533
stumpy-ktm
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ok here is some pics of the part you are looking for



Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
It is tiny. The bent steel tube that comes out of the carb where the fuel line enters from the tank, in the end there is a semi conical plastic insert, lever that out carefully with something sharpish. With the carb out you can just look down the tube & see if you can see any crud.

Cheers
Clint


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Old 01-11-2013, 06:39 AM   #3534
hillbilly enduro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgorman View Post
On the average Huffy or cheap bicycle yes, but take apart a Campagnolo or good Shimano wheel hub and you will see a huge difference in quality, night and day different.
Ok. Then I learned something again today I still prefer the ballbearings over the conical ones though...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
The hell of it is you never know when it will happen. I had one start to go at 15K miles. I felt lucky to find it.
bill
Yes it's not good. It's about the same story with my 625. PO replaced both intake roller and cam just before I bought it. It was at about 16500 km. But it had been stolen and probably been ridden like so, that can't help either.
Unfortunately he replaced the roller with a good used one , so I'm going to replace both rollers in near future, before it costs another cam
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:56 PM   #3535
Mo-Tarded
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
It is tiny. The bent steel tube that comes out of the carb where the fuel line enters from the tank, in the end there is a semi conical plastic insert, lever that out carefully with something sharpish. With the carb out you can just look down the tube & see if you can see any crud.
Cheers
Clint
Clint/Stumpy: I FOUND IT ! I took it out completely... I'm going to put an inline filter in. Something visual that I can see crud in. Thanks guys !

Zen my ass... * cursing * ....but I'd strangle ( as to offset the period of time I spent cussing trying to reinstall the choke cable into the BST) the idiot that built a plastic choke cable retainer in the stupid carburetor ! ...and only THEN did I recall reading that there is an aluminum one available.

So my NEXT question is: Is the replacement part aluminum ? ....or is it an aftermarket gizmo ?

Thanks again in advance for any help !
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:57 PM   #3536
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Tarded View Post
Clint/Stumpy: I FOUND IT ! I took it out completely... I'm going to put an inline filter in. Something visual that I can see crud in. Thanks guys !

Zen my ass... * cursing * ....but I'd strangle ( as to offset the period of time I spent cussing trying to reinstall the choke cable into the BST) the idiot that built a plastic choke cable retainer in the stupid carburetor ! ...and only THEN did I recall reading that there is an aluminum one available.

So my NEXT question is: Is the replacement part aluminum ? ....or is it an aftermarket gizmo ?

Thanks again in advance for any help !
My choke fitting ran broken for quite a while.I upped the slack a little.
bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:22 PM   #3537
dnrobertson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Tarded View Post
Clint/Stumpy: I FOUND IT ! I took it out completely... I'm going to put an inline filter in. Something visual that I can see crud in. Thanks guys !

Zen my ass... * cursing * ....but I'd strangle ( as to offset the period of time I spent cussing trying to reinstall the choke cable into the BST) the idiot that built a plastic choke cable retainer in the stupid carburetor ! ...and only THEN did I recall reading that there is an aluminum one available.

So my NEXT question is: Is the replacement part aluminum ? ....or is it an aftermarket gizmo ?

Thanks again in advance for any help !
This may be worth a look.

I have swapped to an FCR carb, and the standard Mikuni plastic choke retainer fits in the FCR. I have looked at the hot start mechanism on the FCR and the retainer for that looks the same as the choke. There are replacement aluminium retainers availble for the hot start.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:42 PM   #3538
biensur22
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This might strike some as an odd question but I've looked throughout and can't find an answer. I'm trying to install a center stand on my 98 620 adv but I'm struggling to figure it out. It seems that one mounting hole (l/h side) is threaded while the other is not. Thus, when I fit it into place the post on the right side of the center stand slides in properly, but the left has the same side threads as its hole, therefore it needs to be spun on. What's going on here? The bottom hole is the one on the left side that I'm using. The kick stand is still on tho I know it will need to be removed to use the center stand, but do I need to take it ff for installation? What am I missing?
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:52 PM   #3539
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biensur22 View Post
This might strike some as an odd question but I've looked throughout and can't find an answer. I'm trying to install a center stand on my 98 620 adv but I'm struggling to figure it out. It seems that one mounting hole (l/h side) is threaded while the other is not. Thus, when I fit it into place the post on the right side of the center stand slides in properly, but the left has the same side threads as its hole, therefore it needs to be spun on. What's going on here? The bottom hole is the one on the left side that I'm using. The kick stand is still on tho I know it will need to be removed to use the center stand, but do I need to take it ff for installation? What am I missing?
Gotta take the KTM side stand off to install the center stand. The center stand fits into the very bottom holes on the frame, almost like stamped steel down there. It does not thread in, I think the threads you are seeing are from the side stand bracket.

I've been thinking about this...



...as I have both the KTM side stand and center stand. The center stand alone is a pain IMHO, but I like the idea for working on the bike and flats.

Might end up getting a SW Motech jobbie, but have trouble with the $120 price tag.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:06 PM   #3540
biensur22
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I see what you're saying, but my frame hole is definitely threaded. I wonder if I should just drill it out.

I like the idea of both, an I would generally prefer the kick over the center for convenience, but the stock kickstand is so flimsy I'm always affraid it's about to break off.
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