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01-06-2013, 12:15 AM
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#136 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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01-12-2013, 06:36 PM
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#137 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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Wheel bearings and inner tube have arrived
Well, have my parts. Now, a little time and should have the rear tire and wheel back together. Meanwhile, have gotten further on the bracket fabrication for gauges and key.
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01-13-2013, 10:55 PM
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#138 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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update and question about XR500 and battery
Well, installed bearings in the rear wheel today! also, sold some XL600 parts to a 'new' friend and hopefully riding buddy, and recouped some of the loss.
So, I have a line on another basket case near me: 1984 XR500 (what I was told). Where does that bike fit in to the lineup of my 86 XR600, and the parts left from my XL600? Which one is it most similar to? What big ticket items would interchange and/or is it worth getting? ...I have the seat being redone by a local guy, sorry Z_S. He's only 1 mile from my new house so I decided to support local business - not to mention, if it's junk he can do it over and I'm not paying for shipping! I'll have pictures as soon as practical. Almost have the bracketry figured out for the speedometer and key switch. a lot of trial and error, but I think It will work. If I'm going to use (which I am) a dry cell battery setup, Am I looking for a combination of 12 volts? how many cells is that? Anyone have a recommendation? Like a radio controlled toy battery pack or something? |
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01-14-2013, 12:57 AM
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#139 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: MILLJURAH Vic. Aus
Oddometer: 87
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Rechargables run 1.2V per cell, so you will need 10,
Akalines run 1.5V percell so you only need 8 Lipo's run in config of 3.7V per cell, so 3S (3 in series) is 11.1V, 4S would be 14.8V and you would need a regulator of some sort. New type LiFe's run 3.3V so a 4S pack would be 13.2, probably spot on for what you want. Disclaimer, I have no experience with batteries on a XR600, just an RC junkie.
__________________
It's a lot easier to apologise than to ask permission ![]() My Stator rebuild pics http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=835339 |
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01-14-2013, 07:32 AM
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#140 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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Quote:
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01-14-2013, 05:46 PM
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#141 | |
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looking for bionics
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: border of granite & flats
Oddometer: 594
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Quote:
They are most similar to the dual carb XR6. However, there is a bit less parts interchange than I thought when I bought my first XR5. Things that are different off the top of my head: steel swingarm steel kick lever different rear frame sections larger muffler different left case half, left side of crank, stator cover, connecting rod is unique to the XR5 smaller bore (obviously other small changes for oiling (see XR600 top end questions thread) larger carb insulator plate port holes fuel tank (over 3 gallons) and seat are different The wheels should swap easily ![]() Not sure you want the XR5 to use as spares on the XR6. How good of a deal are gonna get for the basket? I've always thought that the XR5 engine in a 85-87 XR6 frame would make the lightest big bore RFVC
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01-15-2013, 09:56 PM
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#142 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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tire info and questions and current state of affairs
Quote:
On another note - got my Kenda Tube, installed it w/ the almost new Kenda tire off the XL600, and sure enough, I put a hole in the tube (stupid me using screwdrivers). Soooo, let this be a lesson to you all! buy the dang tire irons! they are 5$ a piece! At least I didn't cuss and throw tools. This time. I ordered Motion Pro tire irons tonight off ebay. I'll go get a patch kit from NAPA when the irons come in. I figure it was either that or pay a bike shop 25$, and they want to replace the tube again. plus, I think the front may have a leak as well, so will be looking in to that AS SOON as I have my tire irons My seat is ready and will be picked up on Wednesday! :) This thing has duct tape for a rim strip? anyone have a comment on that ghetto setup? Is that ok, or should I get an ebay rim strip too? The other one had a normal but brittle rim strip so couldn't use it. *** never mind, i just ordered a rim strip off ebay *** LandsVW screwed with this post 01-15-2013 at 10:05 PM Reason: question was answered by myself |
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01-16-2013, 06:58 PM
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#143 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: central coast of California
Oddometer: 211
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There is a great thread somewhere in the garage section where a guy installes a tire without using irons. Its kind of hard to explain without pics so go check it out. Ive installed my last three tires that way but I substitute zip ties for the nylon straps. I like it so much I now have enough zip ties in my emergency tool kit to install a tire this way. If you start the tire at the stem it is actually easier to get the stem through the rim than when you use irons.
found the thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...=tire+changing |
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01-16-2013, 07:04 PM
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#144 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 3,954
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thats for tubeless sealed rims like shown...put a tube in there and things might get funny...but I guess you can try
anyways...if 8 straps can be had for 8 bucks thats cool...2 or 3 tire irons for me
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01-16-2013, 08:47 PM
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#145 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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regarding tire mounting thread
Wow! that is a good thread! has some pretty good ideas of how to use different methods in a 'pinch'. I have the tire spoons on the way, but may try to create a hybrid method with some parachute cord I have lying around. I have always wanted tire spoons, and this gave me a great chance to buy tools too. plus, they will come with me on a trip for sure. Anyone recommend a patch kit? I noticed that NAPA had several different styles and kinds of patches and kits. Some said rubber patch, some said radial (for tubeless) but are all tubes rubber? My tube is a Kenda.
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01-17-2013, 09:26 AM
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#146 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 3,954
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the good patches are the round ones with a read glue kind of seal on the outside...
I have patched many a tube...all tubes are rubber! jajajaja the important thing is to sand the affected area well and let the glue tack dry first...the press firm for 5 minutes or so under a rock..there is always a rock for this...and inflate the tube to 5psi and install in the tire THEN install on the wheel that way NO PINCH FLATS 3 spoons are better than 2, but if you have a crescent wrench or long screwdrivers you can compromise christian |
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01-17-2013, 05:46 PM
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#147 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: central coast of California
Oddometer: 211
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Quote:
Ive never owned a bike with tubeless tires and Ive used this methd for the last two tire changes. You have to slightly inflate the tube and then put it in the tire before cinching it down with the straps making sure one of the straps is next to the valve stem on the tube and you should still use talc between the tube and the tire. Start the tube on the rim by inserting the valve stem in the hole in the rim and start a nut on it. then work the tire onto the rim just like in the pics. I don't use rim locks so I don't know how those are installed but I suspect it might still be possible |
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01-17-2013, 06:06 PM
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#148 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 3,954
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well thats cool...all I was saying is that the original thread shows a comstar like rim that uses no tube...they are easier to install
also most tires sold these days are tubeless, doesnt mean people dont use tubes in them, typical tires like these are most offroad dot tires.... id like to see somebody use this method out on the trails just sayin |
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01-17-2013, 09:49 PM
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#149 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Dunedin ,Florida
Oddometer: 723
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Quote:
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01-17-2013, 11:09 PM
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#150 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Canyonville Oregon
Oddometer: 134
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Quote:
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