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Old 01-09-2013, 09:48 PM   #3121
Lizrdbrth
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Location: High desert, soCal
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Lol. I didn't want to appear to be a buzzkiller by pointing it out at the time but I kinda figured you'd have some brake issues. You've pulled of a really nice swap. I've seen a couple others but only when they were up for sale. I assume the brakes were one of the reasons they may not have worked as well as expected. Nice to see someone with some follow through and commitment building a monster like yours..

Yes, the brake is already a bit undersized for the TW. I cover and use both brakes no matter what I'm riding, but with so much rubber on the ground you'll use it harder and more often than you would on something comparable like an XT with the same sized brake. I don't think fade even enters into it on our little bikes, it's more like the fact that not enough happens quite quickly enough when you really need it. .

Offroad is where I'll see the most benefit. When you finally have an adequate brake back there you may find that your riding style changes a bit in order to get the most out of the fat tire. Particularly in my case with the greater traction of the ATV tire you tend to ride the bike with the back brake. Get out of shape, tap the back brake and the bike will stand up, stretch out straight and go on with life. You can use the rear like a sea anchor on really nasty downhills, too. If you can control your speed you'll never lose traction under engine braking like skinny tire will so all you gotta concern yourself with is steering. It's like a vacation once you learn it.

The 130 was standard on much faster and heavier Yamahas , so maybe it will be enough for your conversion. It's bound to be a major improvement, but if you trust my judgement and can can afford the luxury of waiting til I'm finished with this I probably have enough experience to guesstimate how much or if you should just bypass it and go bigger.

I didn't go disc because we'd need something on the order of a 200mm disc to equal a 130 drum and there is all this parts interchangability between models. Less weight, no caliper mounts to fabricate, master cylinder and linkage to work out, etc. Mostly eyeball engineering.

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Old 01-10-2013, 08:28 AM   #3122
kubiak
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Location: madera california
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizrdbrth View Post
Lol. I didn't want to appear to be a buzzkiller by pointing it out at the time but I kinda figured you'd have some brake issues. You've pulled of a really nice swap. I've seen a couple others but only when they were up for sale. I assume the brakes were one of the reasons they may not have worked as well as expected. Nice to see someone with some follow through and commitment building a monster like yours..

Yes, the brake is already a bit undersized for the TW. I cover and use both brakes no matter what I'm riding, but with so much rubber on the ground you'll use it harder and more often than you would on something comparable like an XT with the same sized brake. I don't think fade even enters into it on our little bikes, it's more like the fact that not enough happens quite quickly enough when you really need it. .

Offroad is where I'll see the most benefit. When you finally have an adequate brake back there you may find that your riding style changes a bit in order to get the most out of the fat tire. Particularly in my case with the greater traction of the ATV tire you tend to ride the bike with the back brake. Get out of shape, tap the back brake and the bike will stand up, stretch out straight and go on with life. You can use the rear like a sea anchor on really nasty downhills, too. If you can control your speed you'll never lose traction under engine braking like skinny tire will so all you gotta concern yourself with is steering. It's like a vacation once you learn it.

The 130 was standard on much faster and heavier Yamahas , so maybe it will be enough for your conversion. It's bound to be a major improvement, but if you trust my judgement and can can afford the luxury of waiting til I'm finished with this I probably have enough experience to guesstimate how much or if you should just bypass it and go bigger.

I didn't go disc because we'd need something on the order of a 200mm disc to equal a 130 drum and there is all this parts interchangability between models. Less weight, no caliper mounts to fabricate, master cylinder and linkage to work out, etc. Mostly eyeball engineering.
im loving the simplicity of the drum brake for sure and the pads and parts are dirt cheap! im following your project and see we think alike. always room for improvement on our projects!
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:55 PM   #3123
Turkeycreek
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Location: Banámichi, Sonora, Mexico
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Ignition Swith replacment

I'll skip the long and boring story about the '97 I bought last April but might actually get to see for the 1st time this afternoon.

The bike will be arriving without the ignition key. Incredibly, the key has fallen through a small tear in time and space that opened momentarily in an ordinary desk drawer and it is now in an alternate universe, trapped there forever. At least according to my son who had the key last.

A new OEM cylinder and switch is about $160. Not going to happen. Need a better option. If the cylinder has a number stamped on it, I have been told I can order the key. What after market/used options out there? there is an Emgo replacement but not for this model. Is there a cross reference list of Yamaha models that use the same assembly.

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:33 PM   #3124
Solomoriah
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According to the Yamaha microfiche, the part number for the "Main Switch Steering Lock" is 2GK-82501-01-00. I found this on the boats.net OEM parts finder; clicking the link on the part number tells me that the same unit is used on the XT350 from 1987 to 2000; that appears to be the only other model using that part. Since it is the steering lock as well as being the ignition, that's not surprising to me.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #3125
Turkeycreek
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Thanks Solomoriah. I'm new to the TW so the link will be really helpful. I've found a few possible sources.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:03 PM   #3126
Solomoriah
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Any time you want to verify which bike models use which part, you can't beat boats.net's online service. Of course, if you do turn around and buy the OEM part, it's only fair to order from them.

Doesn't hurt that they have competitive prices. When I rejetted my carb, I got the parts from them.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:30 PM   #3127
assquatch20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?
If you can't find a used one and won't buy new, making your own switch work is cheap and easy. You can find other ignition switches that will work fine, but you'll probably lose the steering lock, and getting it to fit in place is the pain of it.

I'm just guessing, but old Honda tumblers were pretty compact and probably go cheap on eBay. I'd see if they use the same amount of wires and give one a try, if you're wanting an actual keyed ignition. I'd lean towards some sturdy toggle switches with a hidden kill. There's plenty of inline kill switches for bikes out there. Or get yourself a racing switch with a lanyard if you wanna be cool.

And yeah, a new key is probably smartest.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:56 PM   #3128
JagLite
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Thumb New key

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post
I'll skip the long and boring story about the '97 I bought last April but might actually get to see for the 1st time this afternoon.

The bike will be arriving without the ignition key. Incredibly, the key has fallen through a small tear in time and space that opened momentarily in an ordinary desk drawer and it is now in an alternate universe, trapped there forever. At least according to my son who had the key last.

A new OEM cylinder and switch is about $160. Not going to happen. Need a better option. If the cylinder has a number stamped on it, I have been told I can order the key. What after market/used options out there? there is an Emgo replacement but not for this model. Is there a cross reference list of Yamaha models that use the same assembly.

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?
I took the info on the ignition switch and my title (for proof of ownership and the VIN) to the local Yamaha shop and they ordered a new key for me.

Works perfect and was less $ than having a locksmith cut a new key.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:02 AM   #3129
Turkeycreek
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Thanks to all. I did find an inexpensive Emgo generic lock at MSS. It looks like it will do the trick for under $15. I'll have to work out a mount for it but that won't be too hard.

I also found an XT350 replica lock on e-bay but t has a different PN. I queried the seller but nothing back yet

I did call my local dealer - a mere 140 miles away - and they told me that they could not get a key based on the VIN, I would need the number off the cylinder, Mine has no number. I might try the dealer in Hermosillo. Mexicans are more flexible some times.

Anyone know if the gas cap lock is normally keyed the same as the ignition on a '97? That may point me towards having a key made instead of having to replace the cap as well.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:05 AM   #3130
Falcon86
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
Oddometer: 1,630
Anyone have an extra set of plastics they'd like to sell?

Also, the rectangle cluster that contains the neutral light and other gauges?

PM me if you have either that you'd like to sell, thanks gents!
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #3131
Lizrdbrth
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Location: High desert, soCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post
Thanks to all. I did find an inexpensive Emgo generic lock at MSS. It looks like it will do the trick for under $15. I'll have to work out a mount for it but that won't be too hard.

I also found an XT350 replica lock on e-bay but t has a different PN. I queried the seller but nothing back yet

I did call my local dealer - a mere 140 miles away - and they told me that they could not get a key based on the VIN, I would need the number off the cylinder, Mine has no number. I might try the dealer in Hermosillo. Mexicans are more flexible some times.

Anyone know if the gas cap lock is normally keyed the same as the ignition on a '97? That may point me towards having a key made instead of having to replace the cap as well.
The ignition, gas cap and helmet lock are keyed the same. The ignition switch is easily removed, but the gas cap and helmet locks can be considerably less so. Having a locksmith make new keys off the ignition switch will likely work out cheapest in the long run if you have no luck ordering by VIN.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:31 PM   #3132
FootDoc
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Getting a nail in you tire aways sucks, But after getting a nail in my Maxxis im ready to .
This thing was such a PITA to mount, now I have to do it again.
I should have taken a picture of the railroad spike I pulled outta the damn thing.
Sorry, just had to bitch and moan a little....Ill wash the sand out of my vagina while Im waiting for my new tube to arrive.


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Old 01-16-2013, 05:43 PM   #3133
frog13
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No need to apologize Doc....WE understand!.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #3134
truthiness
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Chicago Heights, IL.
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Hey all. I just recently picked up a pair of banger Tdubs from a fellow inmate here. They're pretty rough and need some work, but I can't wait to ride one of these things! This one is primarily a parts bike


This other one was a runner but sat outside for quite a while. I'm hoping a quick carb clean will get it to at least start up again.

I'm only a couple years into riding and I've never done dirt, so I'm really anxious to learn.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:34 AM   #3135
Turkeycreek
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Banámichi, Sonora, Mexico
Oddometer: 883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizrdbrth View Post
The ignition, gas cap and helmet lock are keyed the same. The ignition switch is easily removed, but the gas cap and helmet locks can be considerably less so. Having a locksmith make new keys off the ignition switch will likely work out cheapest in the long run if you have no luck ordering by VIN.
Working on getting key blanks now., I live in northern Sonora, Mexico so I have to take the cylinder to Arizona to get the right blank. I have a good lock smith here who can make the key for me.

Thanks
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