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Old 12-18-2012, 08:00 AM   #16
Snowhite808 OP
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Wisdom needed.

Wisdom is needed, to sort out the little problem, that the bike is having during warmups.

I´ll just try to describe the issue as best as I can.
Lets say the bike has been standing still with new petrol in tank for 1 day. I pull in the choke about 1/3 of the way and start the bike. The bike starts right up and runs great for 10-20 sec at around 2000 rpm and then stalls. If I start it up again it might stall 5-10 sec later or keep running but drop the revs for a half a second. Sometimes it even causes the exhaust to pop quietly. After seeing 3-4 bars on the temperature gauge, I drop the choke and the bike runs just 100% fine.
The same issue occured before all the SAP and exhaust rebuild and stuff also.
So what am I having here????
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:45 AM   #17
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Touring seat - ADV

Touring seat for the adv.

Why?
- well, because the original seat is just plain rubbish. After riding with V-strom for a season, I know what comfort might be - and the seat of a 950 adv does not have anything in common with that. It takes less than an hour to loose all the feeling in my butt and start hurting after 2 - longest I could sit on it, was about 3h straight and then I needed 2 off to recope.

Ok - so I searched all the searches I could do in my country and found no good answer to my need. No workshop was willing to take the original seat apart and make me a custom cushion with new padding and shape and cover.
The "magical world of ebay" had 2-3 different offerings and as tempting as they were - I have no way of knowing, if the touratech seat or the 2011 model gel seat would be ok for my butt. Open up the world wide web and do a search. There are so many seat-worksop-manufacturers that are mainly based on 1 or 2 very experienced pros. And then there are plenty of pages explaining the "what and the how" of motorcycle seats. I still have time till summer (all good 3-4 months) and for that reason - I chose the way of the DIY.
Here is how it went.

1) Internet provided me with knowlege, that a man should strip down, wet hes backside and sit on a piece of paper to get the perfect "ass" on paper.

I used 1 big sheet of white drawing paper from my technical drawing times of university and just sat my arse down on it.
Took a pen in my hand and draw the outline of my arse on the paper, as equal and firm as I could.

V


The front will need clearing - the size of the frontal area of the "seatarsedrawing" is taken from the Vstrom seat size - that is about 5 inches wide in the front. The rear just has my buttocks and made equal by any means (used ruler and big plates and pen).


I then stripped the old seatcover off the frame.


The glue You see, is not from the seat cover but the underlining ultrasoft foam. I took that off too, to have more clear view of what I was working with.

So- just put the template on the seat and take measurements if it is possible to carry that to the seat.
Just for testing, I took an old car seat foam and cut out the template.


Besides being too high and too soft and not supportive - it kinda felt comfy and more ridable than the original already.
So I modified it - I don´t know if all of the adv seats have the gel part in them but mine did and I can tell, that it was no help at all. It makes the seat loose cradle effect and pushes too hard on the tailbone and does not offer enough support on the right spots. But it is easy to cut and I made some foam/gel seat improvements.
Here is what it looked like.


Nastyyyy - You say - and I know, at first glance to me too - but boy it was comfy. Just too damn tall and soft on the sides.
So I took the seat with me and went to the garage to check it all on the bike - to find the proper seat position and size.
And I was wayy off line. It was maybe 3-4 inches too short from the rear and the tilt towards the front is way too much for me.
So another drawing was made - this time with a soft pen on the seat while I was sitting on it.
I took a knife and cut out the whole portion of that seat bit now and went back home. I had some proper stiff insulation foam (like yoga mats) and just formed the seat cushion by glueing 4-5 layers of that material together. The sides needed more support (wider at the rear for the bums) so I used the same material just vertically glued together and it made the sidewalls a lot stiffer and the cradle effect was born.
After a few hours of sniffing the glue and cutting little pieces of the material off, to get the proper shape and size - this is what the seat now looked like.



The bigger imperfections can be cut down with sharp knives or maybe a soft saw - and then the perfect form will come from using ultra high rubbing sand paper.
I took a spin with the new seat and felt like home.
This was almost perfect - just sanded down little more the "sitting bones" to create more cradle and left a softer place for my cohones in the front (cuz I had crushed them on the orange beast right there 2-3 times) and voila - now all is needed is the new supersoft cover and the vinyl.
Finding supersoft foam cover over internet - no problem - but the vinyl was nowhere advertized, so I just took my chances and went to the biggest fabricstore I could find and there it was. Did not get the perfect size or the perfect piece of vinyl (my first purchase of that sort - mental note: go with a woman to do that kinda shopping, might get new curtains too while you are at it, but the vinyl will be better.)
As original - the supersoft stuff was glued on with spray glue and here are the pics.



Then the vinyl - In order to get that right - heat it up so, that it is hot to touch but really, really soft.
Then gently stretch and attach from front and back and start stretching and working with the sides. Takes time and effort and pulling and holding and sometimes thinking " i need at least 6 hands to do this s...t" but it´ll get there.

An hour later - this is my new adv touring seat.



And here is how it looks on the bike.


from top


Nice, firm comfortable and looks totally fine by me. Maybe not Corben or smthn, but definatelly adv worthy.





A few days later I had a second to do some more, so I attached the GPS/ phone mount on the dash, where the previous owner apparently had it too. (holes were plugged there).
Nice 30 minutes later the view is clear and I hope it is rattle free this time (the mount is smaller and firmer than the one on Vstrom was and hopefully will not disintegrate on russian roads again).



Some more bodywork needs getting done - but there is time for that in the future ....
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:26 PM   #18
Harold Waikiki
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WOW! Very Impressive. I'm in awe!
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:12 PM   #19
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Excellent work, I am particularly impressed with the seat. Bravo!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaheshe View Post
WOW! Very Impressive. I'm in awe!


Quiet down now, You are making me blush.


In the near future I really hope to get the custom crash bars started - and that should be a lot more rewarding hopefully.
Althou the seat - well, i might be spending many more hours on that, than on crash bars.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:31 AM   #21
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CARB SYNC - how not to do it. :D

Hello, again.

Nop. The spring is not coming this year.
At least not here. Its the second half of the March - and the temperatures are lower then they were in January. Everything is frozen and full of snow and ice and the things that the weatherman is saying - are just not the kinda stuff we want to hear...


I still got the bug in me - no way a sunny day can keep me away from thinking about riding a little. Had some stuff that still needed sorting out.
After the exhaust had been modified to 2-into-1 system, there would probably be some mismatch with the intake. Well - the fellow Carrot teamer lend me a hand and came to check out the carb sync. It is an easy procedure and should take one no more than 30 minutes (counting the removal of tank and some bits). I wanted to buy the proper carb balance tool - our motoshops only sell some dial versions and I wanted to have the mercury type. (used that before, that I got from a friend and was super). But money is tight and 130 EUR for that tool - not in the budget right now. So a Carb/throttle body sync tool was born.
and here is the little one



Not so little?
HEH - if 5m of 4mm diam duct was bought then for all that worth the balancer tool got. The oil is just clean 2-stroke oil. A little thick when cold in the garage but safe for the engine and all the parts. (Red ATF is also very good). In both ends of the duct there are pnp adapters for the balancing lines of the carbs on the motorcycle. (they were already prepared on the right side of the engine during the cleanup procedures.)

- What we needed to do?
= Remove the glove box in the middle - remove the right tank with upper fairing, connect lines and check for balance - if out of sync, then remove the air box cover and air filter and the regulating screw is a + type on the left side of the rear carb.
Whilst taking off the right tank - think of fuel spillage !!!
OK - so we did close that valve on the right tank but forgot that the fuel from the left one still flows. Hence - spillage, again
The fuel valve was closed and bike rolled out the garage to be started and warmed up.
NO SUCH LUCK.

The bike would crank but not start. I could hear the battery already getting weak - no charging done for quite some time.
A few more tries and nothing. So we took turns in pushing and trying to jumpstart it - nothing again. Dead as a duck after a good coocking.
So off comes the battery cover and out comes the battery and goes to charging for the night.



A sidenote - the stupid holder for the SW-motech bash plate is in the way - so 2 more bolts need to be removed, to get the battery out.

Bad batteries You say? well - this one is from 2004 and seems to be still working.


A quote from the old computer game comes to mind here:
"Thust You wish to leave with such a hasty abandon?"

Nop - but there is nothing to be done, but to wait for the battery charger to do its work.

Next day.

0800 am I´m up and running. Stuff gets sorted at home - I run my runs and get the battery from charger. Seems full - measure 12,6V from it.
I take my tools and run to the garage.
And there is spillage. Again.
The good damn right tank was supported against the wall but aparently the fuel valve did not close properly so almost most of the "good stuff" was now on the garage floor. And the SMELL. Mmmmmmm. Better not light a match in here.
When I sat down to the computer last night the epiphany moment was not far from me. Just looked at the fuel line set up from the manual for a second and remembered - WE TURNED THE FRIEKEN LEFT TANK FUEL OFF TOO

So in order to get things running again I plugged the right end of the fuel line with a tool, opened the valve on the remaining left tank and - -
wait for it

Spillage

Plugged the thing properly and the bike started right up. After some running and heating up - I rose the revs to about 2000 rpm and this is what it looked like.


I hope You can see the difference - it was about 3-4 inches and slowly climbing. The rear carb was pulling more vac.
This type of carb sync tool is sensitive. But since the oil was thick from cold - the reaction is slow. Sync took about 3-5 minutes of testing and revving and letting it settle and more testing. I finally left it to about half an inch of difference - more accurate was just not possible. (compared to the small sync tools I bet it was about 1mm of difference between two carbs).
Bike ran fine - the popping disapeared and even in rev limiter, there would be no more flames coming out the back.


About 20 minutes of cooling and then putting everything back together.
oiled up some connections and even installed the bash plate and cleaned the beast a little.

So here is the monster - ready to race, or test or whatever.
You get teh idea.



The traveling stuff needs to wait for its time - until then I intend to get to know my bike a little better on the roads and off of them

Snowhite808 screwed with this post 03-18-2013 at 07:43 AM
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:47 PM   #22
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Brakes and clutch and more weight saveing

Todays topic - fluids.

It cannot be described with my lack of vocabulary, what the situation is with the clutch oil on the KTM. There are possibly million different opinions for it and 5 -10 solutions for the bad slave cilinder on the clutch.
I went with this road - took everything apart, replaced the o-rings on the piston and bought a quart of oil. RED HOT - no chilli pepper though
Basically high grade ATF oil that is suitable for many purposes and seemed to fit there too. Needless to say - the old oil looked like something that comes from the oil sump of a 20yo truck engine.


Anyhow, oil got changed - everything put back together and some testing later, it was time for the brakes.
In the shop I asked for the normal "high grade" brake fluid - so this is what I got.


It is just one step lower from racing fluid and with the bottle I could do easily front and rear - double flush with bleeding and testrun.
Here one can see the old "pissyellow" fluid - was actually not that bad - absolutely worked and didnt boil even under hard braking.


And here is the true reason for taking everything apart.

Another way to save weight. Just remove front wheel - take off the bushings - unscrew the brake disc and take off the right side brake caliper.
Took me about 5 minutes to clean it all and take off the separate hose for the right side caliper and replace the seals and bolt the left side to the spot again.
Here is what came off -


Not too shabby - the most weight seems to be the bolts with the rotor. Caliper is lightweight alloy and well - the braided brake line was never going to be heavy.

Whilst looking at the wheel now - there are two small aluminium bushings on both side. They are the ones that basically keep the wheel turning and let the seals do their work - well - if dirt gets in there, then the soft aluminium bushings will wear out and the dirt gets through the seals and to the bearings. Mine were out. Like so out - i could barely move them with force. So this was the reason, my front wheel had no freerun.


Some new parts ordered and waiting goes on.
It is snowing again outside.

But I had a little chance to weigh the bike. With the fuel in - it was 205,6 kg.
So after letting it drip out - i managed to fill one 5l fuel can and had still enough in the tanks to make it float around and start the bike normally.
Soo - the endresult was pretty much exactly 200 kg
it was 199,6-9 KG. I guess, that coming from V-strom 1000, this seems like featherweight and makes me more confident to go offroad with this bike. But after a while - probably the weight comes back on with all the travel stuff. Still leaves the bike a solid 40 kg lighter than the previous.
ME LIKE.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:16 AM   #23
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Leaking and non functioning rear brake light switch.

Yesterday I visited the garage, to check the oil levels, install the swing arm protectors and wanted to check if all the lights and farkels are working on the bike or not.
Needless to say - did not go that well.

After letting the bike warm up and taking a little run up and down the garage - I started checking the lights. Turning signals ok, number plate ok, front light ok, front brake ok, rear brake - non existant...

Switched off the bike and rolled back in to the garage. It was time to strip stuff again. Well - checking the wiring - basically right next to the master cyl on the rear is a small white connector for the switch that You can reach if You take off the right side rear fairing. Use a paperclip or similar, to short the wires in the connector and You should get brake light. If not - one needs multimeter to check the voltage and contacts and such. Mine worked right away. Meaning, the problem lies with the sensor. It is a brembo unit that mounts right on the cyl and works off of the oil pressure produced by master cyl in the brake line banjo bolt. There are 3 reasons why this is a crappy solution.
1 - the electric wires are not very protected and run 1/4 of an inch from the hot exhaust pipe.
2 - the sensor works by dirty oil pumping in the banjo bolt (easy to overheat, get stuck and just have an air bubble there
3 - this little switch has an effect on the function of the rear brake. The accuracy and reaction all go together with the performance of the brake. The affect is small, but it is there.

+ one problem that I had with my switch - the frieken thing was leaking.

So I took off the brake cylinder and and the switch and brought it home.
The switch worked if I really forced some small allen key into the pressure point. But no matter how I tried to clean or make it better, nothing helped.
So off to internet and the part is - 50311051100, costs about 14,55 EUR
and was on the shelf at the local dealer.
here the new vs old pic -


Take everything back, remember to use new copper seals if You put everything back together. Here is the pic of the brake line and the position.
Need some ideas to route the wire, so it wount get "soldered" by the hot exhaust.

Then bleed the whole system properly and check if all is good.
Mine was, so I did another run in the garage and took 2 pics of the beascht.





Snowhite808 screwed with this post 04-04-2013 at 11:20 AM Reason: Spellin problems
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:03 AM   #24
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Question Auxilary fuel tank

Just longing for some acceptance.
Here are two pics of the new tank. No mounts on it yet nor fuel connection but the rough form is this. fits snug, weighs almost nothing and brings the range from barely 300km - 450km.
What You guys think? - Should I paint it black or leave it aluminum?
Should I protect it from underside?? And if i should, then with what?
Some plastic cover or something similar to car underbody coat?
Feel free to chime in.



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Old 11-06-2013, 10:36 AM   #25
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Cool2 Next winter is coming.

It was a nice summer,
and it ended even better - this here is the ending of it:
as pics say more than 1000 words - here are some thousands of it.






Anyhow - it was the last ride of the summer (autumn) and after that accidental offroad part - the bike was pretty beaten up. The front sprocket lost 2 teeth, the head of the engine was full of oil spillage and the exhaust leaking pretty bad. Also lost the heated grips function and broke the chain guard on the swingarm.

Since my bike had some other issues also - I purchased a new frame from geramany. It costs a lot. And yet it made a man very happy to get that one morgning "in post".
Now - this is before getting started with the work in garage.



Well - the new trellis frame came from germany and this needs replacing.
With that some parts witch coinside with it and then everything that needs servicing and relocating or replacing on whatever.
In a couple of hours me and my friend Munk -took it all apart.
And I mean all.
This is what was left - we are trying the new frame to the engine here -



Everything still needs cleaning and checking but the swingarm guard was torn and bent and needed changing.
Here is a pic old-vs-new


According to the ktm dealer it needs not to be replaced before it basically rips. Mine did, with a little help in the woods

And here is the old front sprocket.

The teeth are all tilted, two are broken and the whole sprocket is bent a little. So I counted the teeth. Literally - and many times. To my surprise there were only 16. So - hard decision now - what to get for the new one.
Well after countless checks on the gearcommander and online and checking my usual riding habits and miles and so - I went with the original 17 teeth and with the rubber softening on the sides. (ok - it was pretty cheap this time).
I will try this out in the springtime and if it does not work with me nor the bike, it will be replaced.
OH - if anyone still thinks maybe one could fit a 18 teeth sprocket there - nop. The original 17t has less than 1mm clearence to the swingarm.


Next job is to fix the leaking Djelcevich exhaust and stuff the silencer again.
Then I will probably tackle the "jerking head" of gps mount and make it the Rally style and weld some strengthening rods to it.

Until then...
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:37 PM   #26
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Why are you replacing the frame?

I didn't find the reason in your last post.

Did you finish your aux tank?
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:19 AM   #27
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Cool2 Exhaust

Hellou!

Todays topic - the muffler. (silencer, endpipe, endtopf...).

But first things first - To answer Your question "GrenDesb" - the frame is being changed, because mine was having some - hmmm - legal issues.
(basically was an insurance writeoff and i used my friends numberplate for the summer - now also I have no idea of the state of the old frame, as to how straight it might be or not.) Well, the new frame is in great shape and I believe if I can, then in april it will be rolling officcially under my name.
Second question - the tank is finished - I used the ktm tank connector for the lower part and it was very nice. Not using it - well - because the aluminium tank is too weak and got cracks in it the first time I tested it. Sadly - need some other solution and at the moment a 5l external tank (jerrycan) will probably have to be enough. I´m running on a very tight budget this winter, so we can plan our trip to Russia and Georgia and be ready for any trouble with the bikes and stuff. Hope this explaines whats up.

Now todays topic - the bike´s silencer was leaking. Making funny noises and needed proper cleaning and repacking.
It is a light SS pipe from Djelcevic UK and I really like their products for the cost that they are. This is here, what I started with:


Just a matter of drilling out the rivets with a 4mm drillbit and pulling the end off of the pipe. The packing was considerably "blown" on the ending side of the pipe. Just pull the insert out and check for any other problems.



After getting it all apart, it needed some proper cleaning from the tar stains and some gunk that probably comes from chain or dirt or whatever flies around under there.
Then after cleaning and inspecting stuff I decided to use the "stockings" from work, that I have - they are used to insulate heat of the adheater exhaust and made of long fibre.
Just pulled the "stocking" over the pipe snugly and pulled the ends back and tightened them up with metallic fasteners.



Then it was just a matter of taking the insulating wool or material to be used again and I have always used the method, that i repack the muffler so, that none of the material goes to the same spot it was before. Getting it all back into the shell was a mot.... PITA but with pressing the insulation material from both sides equally and yanking it down finally made it. Nice and snug.
The only mufflers where the material has been sewn together or through, have been Remus and Sebring. Never seen them fail early either. Just sayin.
New rivets, little bit of engine sealant (also called engine silicone - capable withstanding more than 350 celsius) to insulate the endcap and voila.
Thats it for today.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:22 PM   #28
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Forks

So - its time for the forks to get serviced.
I only have 8900km on the forks after service.
And the oil is filth. The valves are almost jammed and there is so much overheating going on in the forks. The rebound adjuster was stuck and the aluminium tube was full of burnt oil. Why so fast???
Suppose the oil chosen was too thick for our side of the weather. It is mainly cold here - and the 5w oil does not do its work properly.
I will try the motorex 2.5W as next and adjust the forks to stock.
The oil level will be set to 120mm as suggested by the WP and hall of wisdom.
Then - we´ll see in the springtime, how stuff works in the rough stuff and under more load and travel weight.
Here 2 pics of the "damage".


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Old 11-20-2013, 03:35 PM   #29
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Too bad about the Aux tank, it looked great. Was it just the wel'd failing or was the aluminum used too thin?

Nice work on the rest of the bike.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:05 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srad600 View Post
Too bad about the Aux tank, it looked great. Was it just the wel'd failing or was the aluminum used too thin?

Nice work on the rest of the bike.

Thank You very much.

The aux tank aluminium was 1.8mm and the welds and holders more than 4mm. Made from the same stuff they make aluminium boats. Needless to say - the tank had strengthening cuts inside and "chambers" but the ripping power of bad roads on the tank holders is just too much. They started to tear from the welds and also just the bare material started to rip open.
So I suppose it had too little suppport or too small support. I did plan to make a fastener also to the side - but I was really afraid of falling with the bike and having spillage. Not good to have gasoline spillage with a hot exhaust and other parts meeting.
So now the plan is to create side cases with holder for a 5l jerry can. This should do most of the needed job as well. Have been to some trips with bikes and at one point - extra fuel has always been needed.


Next up will be new oil to the forks, spark plug change and putting the nose back together. (still waiting for the new heated grips and stuff.
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