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Old 01-16-2013, 04:42 AM   #31
ignatz72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
It's starting to look like the only suspect. I've never had this problem. Do you think it is possible to take the relay apart and clean/fix it? I have cleaned the contacts in other relays but the turn signal relay on Airheads are not a normal type, are they?
A /6 relay is a three/four pronged affair in the bucket, right? If so, I'd imagine taking it apart to inspect should be easy enough.

However, I just replaced my dead starter relay (on a GS) which I opened up to inspect. It looked assembly line new inside, yet it was dead. So don't count on internal appearance as a factor in whether it needs replacing.

I would recommend stock parts when troubleshooting electrical issues, since getting a relay substitute that isn't 100% right could lead you astray if it still doesn't work! But SHEESH, that relay is pricey!
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ignatz72 screwed with this post 01-16-2013 at 04:48 AM
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:15 AM   #32
craydds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ignatz72 View Post
I would recommend stock parts when troubleshooting electrical issues, since getting a relay substitute that isn't 100% right could lead you astray if it still doesn't work! But SHEESH, that relay is pricey!
+ 1. A stock relay is a sure bet, but one might consider the Kisan SM-1 signalMinder.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:43 AM   #33
ignatz72
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For the price of the stocker, yes the Kisan is a good bet. However, I would still be hesitant to apply an upgrade to a circuit that may still have problems.

If the dash light issue isn't resolved first, who knows how it will react with a Kisan. Of course the Kisan introduces it's own issue with the single dash indicator...
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:43 AM   #34
disston
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According to Max BMW this is the "Hazard Warning Relay" 61 31 1 358 194. It is 4 prongs. It is taller than a standard size relay, most any other relay. And it has a clip on the back so it can be attached to the place in the headlight shell made for it. It fits 1974 to 1980 Airheads.

It is possible to make the system work with another relay but I forget now what it is you loose. It is probably the way to go since the OEM part is so outrageously priced.

Cleaning is an option, if you are lucky. It may or may not work but if nothing else is fixing this problem I guess you have nothing to loose by trying to fix the one you got.

There is more info on Snowbum's site. If you need help finding the exact article or don't know what I'm talking about then I'll give you more of an explanation. Snowbum's site has tons of useful info but I'm one of those that tires of trying to make sense of it sometimes. I count Mr. Snowbum is a personal friend. I don't know if he would say the same thing about me. But he can really ramble on sometimes tho.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #35
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My take? Airheads are all about "Simpli Fi". For decades I've used a $5.45 Buss flasher relay that does everything that the stock OEM /5 unit does. Even works with LED lamps. I'm sure that there is a 3 or 4 prong Buss repaly that will work.

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Old 01-17-2013, 10:55 AM   #36
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All of the replies are correct,but I would go with the assumption of a bad ground first. It is easy enough to verify. As previously stated, it is forming a ground at the glowing light. With the power on, simply start activating the other circuits.
When you hit the right one, the lamp will go out, as well as the at fault lamp circuit.
If that is not the case, then you'll have to start looking at relays and such.

While probably not related, the larger red wires going into the start relay under the tank on left side, should be cleaned up, anytime you have the tank off. They are notorious for causing all sorts of difficult to trace maladies.

Airheads really are pretty simple to work on, compared to almost anything built in the last twenty years or so.
Just my 2.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:04 PM   #37
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I think that the earth route for the indicator bulb in the instuement case is via the leads that go to the hydraulic fluid level switch which is at the mastercylinder underneath the fuel tank.

Do you front indicators have earth wires ? If not fit them.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:52 PM   #38
disston
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We might be able to help more if you would mention what year this bike is. Maybe you have posted it later? But it's not in the original post which is where I looked for it. There are three years for /6 and two versions of wiring.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #39
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Thanks for the outpouring of help.
Sorry I never mentioned its a 1974 r60/6.
I did disassemble the relay, and it too looked factory new inside. I sprayed some contact cleaner anyway.

So I opted for the trico el13 snow bum replacement rrelay, which is now 12.99 at advance auto.

The "hazard" function you lose is that of a burned out turn signal bulb,
Causing the signals and I indicator to stay solid "on" no flashing on the side of the burned out bulb.


Anyway, the leak was inside the relay somehow. All the grounds and fuses were good.
I'm more than willing to lose that warning feature.
I've got no fairings so I just look at my turn signals periodically to make sure they're flashing
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:03 AM   #40
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Did you re-configure the female side of the unit? The Trico 13 is 3 prongs.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:07 PM   #41
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No, you just skip attaching the brown ground wire to the relay. I followed snow bums instructions
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