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Old 01-15-2013, 12:11 PM   #72886
dopra
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Poznan, Poland
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Hello DR riders, I bought DR650SE, and I will do some changes, if You like You can see what I do :)

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855584
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:37 PM   #72887
ER70S-2
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Hi Dopra:
Welcome from USA and I'll be following along on your rebuild thread.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:58 PM   #72888
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
During the laying the bike on its side procedure, do you turn the petcock off?

Regards,

Derek
Yes
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:18 PM   #72889
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yes
Good to point out. Otherwise, if the petcock is in the pri position (for a stock petcock), or in the on position (for the Raptor petcock), laying the bike on its side will simply mean a bunch of fuel on the ground (the float valve won't close very well with the bike on its side).

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:45 PM   #72890
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Searching this thread for "clip position" didn't seem to yield anything on the first several pages, so I thought I'd ask.
I just got the non-USA OEM needle and clip for my carb...

- Airbox mod...

Anyone else running a similar setup that can tell me what clip position and possibly jet size that I should be using? I'm not a tuner in any way, and I don't have access to a professionally setup DR650, so I'm not sure what all I should be looking for.
I don't think anyone has successfully used an OEM needle (USA or otherwise) with a fully modified airbox (top cut out).
A de-snorkeled airbox - yes, an airbox with the top cut out - no.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:14 AM   #72891
Anklyne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
It is likely to either be dirty, have worn out/damaged parts, or was/is just not jetted correctly.

Regards,

Derek
Thanks for the tip.
It has a Procycle extended idle mixture screw, but apart from that, I don't believe the carby has been messed with (as I said, the airbox is unmodifed). That said, I'll pull it apart and give it a clean, inspect all the bits for wear and take note of the jetting.

Cheers.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:25 AM   #72892
sin3kal
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Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:27 AM   #72893
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sin3kal View Post
Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.
Go here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61568

It's the pre-96 DR650S thread.

Rob
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:28 AM   #72894
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by sin3kal View Post
Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.
There is a thread devoted to to the pre-96 DR's. Just look through the first couple pages of the thumper menu and you should be able to find it. You will have better luck asking your question in that thread.


Damn! 205 Oh well, I tried.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:28 AM   #72895
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sin3kal View Post
Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.
Hunt on ebay if you already havent,you never know what will turn up on there.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:38 AM   #72896
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anklyne View Post
Thanks for the tip.
It has a Procycle extended idle mixture screw, but apart from that, I don't believe the carby has been messed with (as I said, the airbox is unmodifed). That said, I'll pull it apart and give it a clean, inspect all the bits for wear and take note of the jetting.

Cheers.
How many miles are there on the carburetor? Was the bike ever parked for an extended period?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:44 AM   #72897
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I don't think anyone has successfully used an OEM needle (USA or otherwise) with a fully modified airbox (top cut out).
A de-snorkeled airbox - yes, an airbox with the top cut out - no.
If a DynoJet needle can be said to have worked successfully, then an adjustable OEM needle most certainly can. In fact, an adjustable OEM needle is the right direction to go in terms of shape to attempt to mitigate the wonky CO trace shape the DynoJet needle produces.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #72898
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If a DynoJet needle can be said to have worked successfully, then an adjustable OEM needle most certainly can. In fact, an adjustable OEM needle is the right direction to go in terms of shape to attempt to mitigate the wonky CO trace shape the DynoJet needle produces.
I'm waiting for someone to show us how that can be done.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:04 AM   #72899
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I'm waiting for someone to show us how that can be done.
Correspondences on CV carbs:

Low rpm all throttle positions: float height, needle base diameter, emulsion tube outlet size
WOT operation overall: main jet
WOT operation between HP peak and red line: main air corrector
WOT operation below red line: jet needle shape
1/4 throttle opening: jet needle clip position
1/8 throttle opening: pilot jet size
1/16 throttle opening: pilot jet size
idle: mixture screw adjustment

Put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Tune from the top down, i.e. get the right main jet in it for proper wide open throttle operation, then set the needle clip position for correct operation at 1/4 opening, then install the correct pilot jet for proper operation at 1/16-1/8 opening. Readjust the idle mixture after every jetting change. Without the ability to dyno with 5-gas analysis, I would go progressively leaner until there was just the very beginning of a discernible misbehavior. On the main jet, I would then go 2-3 sizes richer. On the needle clip, I would then adjust 1-2 positions richer. On the pilot jet, I would install 1-2 sizes larger. Please do bear in mind that if you have high compression, poor exhaust flow, low octane fuel, and/or ignition timing that is either correct or overadvanced for the correct mixture, tuning via this method could cause detonation and therefore engine damage.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:14 AM   #72900
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Correspondences on CV carbs:
-Snip-
blah blah blah
-Snip-
I'm pretty sure I said show us not tell us.

.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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