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Old 01-16-2013, 02:59 PM   #4801
newcastleadam
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Changing fork seals to get my project 1993 KLR ready for sale, and the leaky one ain't budging with 120 psi in it. Gonna wait it out, then find something with a 24mm or 15/16" end to fully disassemble. Saw one guy made a universal holder out of a 1x1 piece of wood, sharpened like a tent stake to wedge onto the damper rod top. So there's that option

The non-leaky one popped fine of course .
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:43 PM   #4802
Hatley Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Changing fork seals to get my project 1993 KLR ready for sale, and the leaky one ain't budging with 120 psi in it. Gonna wait it out, then find something with a 24mm or 15/16" end to fully disassemble. Saw one guy made a universal holder out of a 1x1 piece of wood, sharpened like a tent stake to wedge onto the damper rod top. So there's that option

The non-leaky one popped fine of course .
When I did the forks on my '01 concours, I believe the trick was to get some 5/8" threaded rod, like 24" or so long, with double nuts jammed against each other on each end. The 5/8" nut will give you your 15/16" end, as long as you get a standard nut, don't get X-tra heavy nuts. Use a 15/16" wrench on one end to hold the rod still, and the other jammed nuts fit into your damper rod. I hope it helps.

T
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:37 PM   #4803
newcastleadam
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Was able to pick the dust seal out, then nicked the oil seal enough to allow the air pressure to pop it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:25 PM   #4804
DirtyDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
What did your oil look like when you changed it ??

I just took my shock apart with 10,000 miles on it and it was black.
The damping quality is going to suffer with broken down oil.
Yes, mine was black like that.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:27 PM   #4805
DirtyDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Changing fork seals to get my project 1993 KLR ready for sale, and the leaky one ain't budging with 120 psi in it. Gonna wait it out, then find something with a 24mm or 15/16" end to fully disassemble. Saw one guy made a universal holder out of a 1x1 piece of wood, sharpened like a tent stake to wedge onto the damper rod top. So there's that option

The non-leaky one popped fine of course .
Next time, keep it pressured up and warm the fork lower with a gentle torch. It'll pop.

Wrap a rag around the seal so you don't make a mess.

Worked for me.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:46 AM   #4806
ADW
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Next time, keep it pressured up and warm the fork lower with a gentle torch. It'll pop.

Wrap a rag around the seal so you don't make a mess.

Worked for me.
Agreed, was gonna suggest that as well. I use a heat gun. Heat on the area of the fork where the seal is located really helps loosen up the "grip" that the seal rubber has on the ID of the fork tube. Works every time.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:54 AM   #4807
newcastleadam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADW View Post
Agreed, was gonna suggest that as well. I use a heat gun. Heat on the area of the fork where the seal is located really helps loosen up the "grip" that the seal rubber has on the ID of the fork tube. Works every time.
Good tip. I did wrap the seal in a rag, mama didn't raise no fool
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:20 AM   #4808
bomber60015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
The aluminum inside the shock is not hardened or coated like a high end shock so it breaks down and contaminates the oil.The oil in my shock was like a frothy black oil with some trace of aluminum residue.Also,there is not alot of oil in the shock,so it doesnt take much for it to break down.
Its like if you take some mothers aluminum polish and rub it on a piece of aluminum that is raw your white rag will be black,but if you do the same thing on a coated or treated piece your rag will be clean.

My shock has a modified 2 stage valve stack and proper spring also so the fact that it is working more efficiently may also contribute to the oil breakdown.

Got it - makes sense . . . . . .thanks!

Ilearned something today -- must be time for a nap.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:36 AM   #4809
IDRIDR
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Race Tech Shock Shaft Assembly

Have any of you done the Race Tech Shock Shaft Assembly? I'd like to hear your thoughts.

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/S...t%20Assemblies
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:13 AM   #4810
GAS GUY
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current project

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:10 PM   #4811
Scott_PDX
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Road my KLR to work for the first time this year

Almost made it, before I lost all power :(



Looks like troubleshooting time. Thinking main fuse, maybe short in the wiring. Bike has been pretty troublefree for the 12,000 miles. Wish me luck!
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:19 PM   #4812
GAS GUY
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Good luck, I'm sure it will be something simple.
Be sure to let us know what you find.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #4813
DirtyDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Any reason this shouldn't be mounted 1) horizontally or 2) lower than the shock body?

Just curious, because I don't technically know how it works. Extra gas volume, or does it have oil and seals inside?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:23 PM   #4814
GAS GUY
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It can be mounted in any position.
It does have a floating piston in it separating the nitrogen from the oil.
Now, the shock will get completely filled with oil along with the hose and approximately 1/3rd of the reservoir.
The other 2/3 rds of the reservoir gets the nitrogen charge.
This will probably double my oil capacity and add compression adjustment.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:45 PM   #4815
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_PDX View Post
Almost made it, before I lost all power :(


Looks like troubleshooting time. Thinking main fuse, maybe short in the wiring. Bike has been pretty troublefree for the 12,000 miles. Wish me luck!
The 2008 and newer KLRs had an issue with the wiring harness rubbing in certain spots.
Did you have the recall done for the armoring?
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