The /5 phoenix project - Page 5

FR700 · 11-06-2012, 07:36 PM

It'll take a 9 1/2 " stroke.

.

Captain Yesterday · 01-02-2013, 06:40 PM

Long over due update

Oil pan all clean and painted

Cylinder's all clean and painted

Holy oxidation batman !!!!!! Looks like I'll be needing a new valve cover some day

The difference in the new bearing design

Heating up the case to put in the new main bearing. No such luck I had the case up to 200 F and the bearing frozen and it sill didn't want to go in looks like I'll need to have it pressed in. That's the only thing holding me up from putting the engine back together.

backdrifter · 01-03-2013, 06:31 AM

The bike is looking great! That paint is the best and most natural-looking paint I have seen used on airhead aluminum parts - what is it?

I almost went that route myself, but instead cleaned everything very well and applied silver Rub N' Buff (a wax-like substance with color pigments used in crafting). I really like the way your paint looks though, good job!

You're doing a fantastic job - I love the before and after photos. You're really saving this poor old girl and I'm sure the sense of satisfaction when you are done will make each ride memorable!

disston · 01-03-2013, 06:46 AM

That's patina.

Captain Yesterday · 01-03-2013, 08:52 AM

Quote:

That paint is the best and most natural-looking paint I have seen used on airhead aluminum parts - what is it?

VTH engine enamel 550 degree. Cast Aluminum ( SP995 ), it's hard to find in stores you may have to ask for it specifically.

TINK · 01-03-2013, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain Yesterday

Long over due update
Oil pan all clean and painted
[snip]
Cylinder's all clean and painted
[snip]
Holy oxidation batman !!!!!! Looks like I'll be needing a new valve cover some day
[snip]
The difference in the new bearing design
[snip]
Heating up the case to put in the new main bearing. No such luck I had the case up to 200 F and the bearing frozen and it sill didn't want to go in looks like I'll need to have it pressed in. That's the only thing holding me up from putting the engine back together.

Looks great, Captain. What type/brand of paint are you using on the engine?

TINK

Captain Yesterday · 01-17-2013, 07:43 PM

Checking stuff

This was a huge pain in the ass, both the thrust washer bearings didn't fit properly. The steel dowels that hold the thrust washers were flattened and the rear one by the rear main seal were basically gone. The thrust washer bearing in the case needed to be drilled out a little so it would fit on the steel dowel and the rear most thrust washer needed to be both drilled out and siliconed in place so I could get the flywheel on. Probably should have had taken the case to a machine shop and had the steel dowels drilled out and replaced.

Make sure those dots are lined up

Coming together

disston · 01-17-2013, 08:19 PM

Did you change those gears, the timing gears? Did you change them both or just the crank gear? Is a new timing chain and the rest new being installed? New crank nose bearing?

groop · 01-18-2013, 08:24 AM

Awesome rebuild. Thanks for sharing. And yes, your comments about the SoCal DMVs are spot on.

Captain Yesterday · 01-18-2013, 08:26 AM

Yeah new crank sprocket, timing chain, and ball bearing nose crank bearing

disston · 01-18-2013, 10:01 AM

Very Good. Just checking.

Captain Yesterday · 01-18-2013, 06:45 PM

Looks like my new cylinder base gasket isn't as thick as the original one. So I'm guessing there might be a compression increase?

Hopefully there wont be any conflict with the pistons hitting the valves

Also, I guess I didn't take enough pictures of disassembly does anyone have a picture of where these bolt to????

Big Bamboo · 01-18-2013, 06:58 PM

The top one is the starter relay and the bottom is your regulator. They both bolt to the most forward brackets on the frame backbone; starter relay on the left, regulator on the right...

disston · 01-18-2013, 07:02 PM

The original base gasket is the thin one. There were thicker gasket/shims that could be used to lower compression. Was especially popular on bikes going down Mexico way or anywhere that they might have lower grade gasoline. You should be fine with the one OEM gasket.

Sometimes the concern with going to thinner gaskets was that the rings would then hit the ridge in the cylinder, if there was a wear ridge. But I remember you had these parts honed. No ridge, no problem.

The gasket is not a problem with the valves. High compression pistons is another story.

Captain Yesterday · 01-18-2013, 07:24 PM

Cool good to know thanks

11-06-2012, 07:36 PM	#61
FR700 Heckler™©® Joined: May 2007 Oddometer: 3,459	It'll take a 9 1/2 " stroke. . __________________ I'm diagonally parked in a parallel universe .

01-03-2013, 06:31 AM	#63
backdrifter Wannabe rider Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Belleville, IL Oddometer: 1,308	The bike is looking great! That paint is the best and most natural-looking paint I have seen used on airhead aluminum parts - what is it? I almost went that route myself, but instead cleaned everything very well and applied silver Rub N' Buff (a wax-like substance with color pigments used in crafting). I really like the way your paint looks though, good job! You're doing a fantastic job - I love the before and after photos. You're really saving this poor old girl and I'm sure the sense of satisfaction when you are done will make each ride memorable! __________________ "We are very good at preparing to live, but not very good at living." -Thich Nhat Hanh 1973 BMW R60/5

01-03-2013, 06:46 AM	#64
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 5,000	That's patina. __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

01-17-2013, 08:19 PM	#68
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 5,000	Did you change those gears, the timing gears? Did you change them both or just the crank gear? Is a new timing chain and the rest new being installed? New crank nose bearing? __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

01-18-2013, 08:24 AM	#69
groop So much to ponder Joined: Jun 2007 Location: oc, ca Oddometer: 2,551	Awesome rebuild. Thanks for sharing. And yes, your comments about the SoCal DMVs are spot on. __________________ Originally Posted by DR. Rock once you leave the pavement, it's like entering a parallel universe... a wormhole in both space and time... sometimes you won't believe you're still in the United States, or in this century.

01-02-2013, 06:40 PM	#62
Captain Yesterday ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles Oddometer: 142	Long over due update Oil pan all clean and painted Cylinder's all clean and painted Holy oxidation batman !!!!!! Looks like I'll be needing a new valve cover some day The difference in the new bearing design Heating up the case to put in the new main bearing. No such luck I had the case up to 200 F and the bearing frozen and it sill didn't want to go in looks like I'll need to have it pressed in. That's the only thing holding me up from putting the engine back together.

01-17-2013, 07:43 PM	#67
Captain Yesterday ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles Oddometer: 142	Checking stuff This was a huge pain in the ass, both the thrust washer bearings didn't fit properly. The steel dowels that hold the thrust washers were flattened and the rear one by the rear main seal were basically gone. The thrust washer bearing in the case needed to be drilled out a little so it would fit on the steel dowel and the rear most thrust washer needed to be both drilled out and siliconed in place so I could get the flywheel on. Probably should have had taken the case to a machine shop and had the steel dowels drilled out and replaced. Make sure those dots are lined up Coming together

01-18-2013, 08:26 AM	#70
Captain Yesterday ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles Oddometer: 142	Yeah new crank sprocket, timing chain, and ball bearing nose crank bearing

01-18-2013, 10:01 AM	#71
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 5,000	Very Good. Just checking. __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

01-18-2013, 06:45 PM	#72
Captain Yesterday ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles Oddometer: 142	Looks like my new cylinder base gasket isn't as thick as the original one. So I'm guessing there might be a compression increase? Hopefully there wont be any conflict with the pistons hitting the valves Also, I guess I didn't take enough pictures of disassembly does anyone have a picture of where these bolt to????

01-18-2013, 06:58 PM	#73
Big Bamboo Studly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2010 Location: Big Island of Hawaii Oddometer: 814	The top one is the starter relay and the bottom is your regulator. They both bolt to the most forward brackets on the frame backbone; starter relay on the left, regulator on the right... __________________ "No hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle." =Winston Churchill=

01-18-2013, 07:02 PM	#74
disston ShadeTreeExpert Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Silver Spring, Md Oddometer: 5,000	The original base gasket is the thin one. There were thicker gasket/shims that could be used to lower compression. Was especially popular on bikes going down Mexico way or anywhere that they might have lower grade gasoline. You should be fine with the one OEM gasket. Sometimes the concern with going to thinner gaskets was that the rings would then hit the ridge in the cylinder, if there was a wear ridge. But I remember you had these parts honed. No ridge, no problem. The gasket is not a problem with the valves. High compression pistons is another story. __________________ Never memorize something you can look up. ---Albert Einstein

01-18-2013, 07:24 PM	#75
Captain Yesterday ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2007 Location: Paso Robles Oddometer: 142	Cool good to know thanks

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