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Old 04-25-2012, 12:17 PM   #256
athletejmv
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Just installed my Athen 290cc Big Bore kit ! ! !

HF, I just wanted to give my thanks for your thorough posting on your Athena big bore kit installation. Everything was straight forward and the directions you provided were great. Resetting the hydraulic for the timing can also be done by hand by applying pressure and twisting it clockwise. I did this on the pavement over a rag to keep from damaging the surface. Once more thank you very much ! ! !
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:11 AM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Is the Athena jug a std cylinder with a bigger bore (and therefore thinner wall more prone to over heating) or is it a stand alone cylinder of comparable wall thickness?
Oops...didn't notice your post for awhile. Guess I should subscribe to my own Thread...eh?

I think its a stand-alone unit, as you say. I believe Athena makes their cylinder from scratch, not simply boring an OEM out. I say that, because the Athena name is in the casting. I did not compare wall thickness between the two. So, I couldn't say for certain how that compares.

I've not experienced any overheating issues to speak of.....and spared it no mercy when riding (as usual). I've never made any surface temperature measurements of either cylinder in operation. Frankly, never cared about it myself. I don't ponder, wonder, or even think about it anymore.....I just ride it. She's been running great every since I finished with this project. No problems, no worries, for me.

I will admit my Husaberg affair has been interfering with my Rē relationship a little bit. So, she's not seen as many miles as she might have otherwise. But so far, all's well.

HF

p.s. if I had it to do all over again, I would have bought the Husaberg sooner, and left the WRR stock.
For the money.....just sayin. Not meaning to discount my modified WRR any. She's a real fine ride indeed, especially now: Mobile, Agile, & Hostile! She came with the first two characteristics. I have added the third. The extra pulling torque is very nice to have.
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Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project

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Old 05-21-2012, 06:15 AM   #258
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Originally Posted by athletejmv View Post
HF, I just wanted to give my thanks for your thorough posting on your Athena big bore kit installation.....Once more thank you very much ! ! !
Your welcome! Glad you enjoyed and found it inspiring. Thanks for the feedback.

HF
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The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:40 PM   #259
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It's my understanding I need to move away from my FMF Programmer and over to a Power Commander V to account for the larger cylinder........was that your motivation to jump from FMF to the Power Commander?

There's a mapping specifically set up for the WR"290"R (22-043-11):
http://www.powercommander.com/powerc...mdl=96&yr=2008

My bike has the Dr "D" (Dubach) exhaust, FMF Power bomb header, open flap, stock air filter.......I can't imagine that there's much of a difference between that and the full FMF system mapping with flap open/stock filter (map 11)
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:38 AM   #260
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No, that is not why I moved to the Power Commander from the FMF unit....per se. When I rode the Highfive Cascade Tour, I was very impressed with the fuel metering on Cyborg's stock WRR with a PC-3. You can read about that in the link provided.

It had been dyno tuned and was spot on perfect, super smooth off bottom. That is the moment I was sold on the Power Commander. It has so much more control capability than the very limited FMF unit. Consequently, its more expensive for good reason. When I departed Seattle, I knew I would make the switch. I would have done so, even if I was running the stock motor and not doing this Athena Big Bore mod.

I went with the PC-5 because I wanted to add the Auto-tune unit to my WRR and make it a "closed-loop" system. This is an option...not a requirement. The A/T has a wide band O2 sensor for the exhaust pipe. The whole system works very well. Taking it to the dyno, I developed a personalized set of fuel maps, specific to this particular motor and setup, with incremental fuel adjustments at every 250 rpm, and 5% throttle opening. And, made one of those complex, unique curves separately for every single gear.......all based on HP & Torque optimization thru the rear wheel (turning the dyno drum). Very cool.

I can flip the A/T on or off at my pleasure. I usually keep it off for trail riding, and will often flip it on when running the roads. The motor runs better in stop & go tight trails with a constant fuel curve. The A/T will constantly adjust fuel metering to hit a consistent AFR ratio loaded into the table. Its a better application for a more steady state operation, not constantly changing throttle a load inputs. Though, it functions extremely fast....maybe faster than the ECU can deliver the commands. These are just impressions I've formed in the saddle since completing the project. I could ride it either way at any time with no problem. You learn your bike and how it feels....its all I'm saying.

I am totally 100% impressed with the Power Commander product. It is in a whole different category than the FMF unit. If you want to eliminate the snatchy, jerky low speed throttle of the stock WRR.......simply get a PC-3 or 5 and try some of the available curves. Better yet, have your bike dyno tuned specifically for what you want.

It is important to note, that I was an early adopter of this system on the bike. As such, there were not very many fuel curves available from Power Commander...maybe 3 or 4...and none for the 290. I tried each one at first, and was not satisfied with any of them. Dyno Tuning was much more effective and gave me a curve to my bike AND what I specifically wanted. More curves are available from PC now. Might work for you....might not. I donno. Try it and see. Personally, I've never regretted a dyno tune. It let's me sleep real good at night!

HF
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The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project

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Old 07-16-2012, 11:59 AM   #261
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Thanks for the reply/explanation.......posted this on the WRR Mega Thread this morning in regards to the FMF unit:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Hmmmm, this is what I have from them (for FMF programmers purchased AFTER September 2010).....I'll call again today to verify what changes I need to make, if any, in the interim before my "Pre-September 2010" programmer gets updated with new firmware.....

Stock Setting with exhaust:
Green 3, Yellow 2, Red 0.5, Green/Blue 8, Yellow/Blue 4, Red/Blue 4.

Big bore 290cc settings with exhaust and lid opening:
Green 5, Yellow 3.5, Red 3, Green/Blue 0.5, Yellow/Blue 3, Red/Blue 4.

Big bore 290cc settings with exhaust and airbox modification:
Green 5, Yellow 4, Red 4, Green/Blue 0.5, Yellow/Blue 3, Red/Blue 4.
Just off the phone with Dobeck.....my contact is a tech named Chris - phone # is 877 764 3337

I was told to use 5, 8, 8, .5, 3, 4 while on my trip too Utah this week.....not the optimum settings because the unit is pushing +15% at the #2 spot (acceleration) instead of +18%.....same with the 3rd position (WOT).....

In a nutshell, crank up the second and third settings to the max until they get the unit back to update the firmware (settings 1 (cruise), 4 (RPM range to activate cruise), 5 (timing for acceleration adjustment) & 6 (timing for WOT adjustment) remain unchanged from the new firmware guidelines noted above)......once they squirt in the new firmware I'll revert to the 5, 4, 4, .5, 3, 4 settings noted above......
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:45 PM   #262
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Well.....good luck with it, Crawdaddy. You'd still have to put the bike on a Dyno to know for certain what your AFR is doing. I simply can't say whether the FMF unit is adequate with the 290 bore. I never tested that combination, as I ordered the Power Commander parts together with my Athena kit.

Myself, I'd probably lose sleep over it. I hate speculating over issues that can be measured precisely. If you study my dyno runs (charts posted at WRRdualsport.com) you can observe the AFR when the 250cc bore was running with the FMF unit. It was running a bit lean in the lower rpm range.....from idle to about 3,000 (if I recall correctly). Thus, the dreaded snatchy take-off. So, that would be a particular area of concern for me.....switching to the 290 bore, as the FMF provides no adjustments for that part of the curve. Zippo!

Go find a Dyno.

HF
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The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project
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Old 12-25-2012, 06:30 PM   #263
Duken4evr
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Just read through all of this - very cool project HF!

I have an '06 FZ1, we have been playing with the PCIII and PCV on that bike for 6 years now on the FZ1 board. The maps that work on that bike all have a similar pattern - pretty significant fuel add at 2% through 20%. Stock EPA mapping is real lean here, and the throttle response is soggy. Richening it up in that zone does hurt gas mileage (perhaps an 8% reduction), but the bike runs so much sharper. The thottle feels way more connected to the rear tire vs. the numb stock response. Top end mapping it large throttle openings is pretty close. We lean it out just a tad on the FZ1, even with a full exhaust and no CAT. Obviously the top end mapping was way rich on a stock bike.

A whole 'nuther adjoostment to play with is the "accelerator pump" fuction, which give the engine an extra squirt of fuel for a set number of crank revolutions. Commonly guys run a 15% bump for 30 revolutions with medium sensitivity. This may help the engine respond when "grabbing a handful". I don't bother with it on the street bike as it is hellaciously sharp and fast as is, but it may be something worth tinkering with. I gather you like to tinker...

Attached is a screenshot of the map I run in my FZ1. Curious how it compares to your setup.




I know the WRR is a different bike than the FZ1, but the map in the ECU is tuned for EPA compliance at part throttle and cruise, and they all come "safely fat" on the top end. I have an ignition module too - don't know if your PCV does that. If it does, I will post up the ignition table. Adding advance at light throttle really frees up the throttle response and gets back some of the lost fuel economy from richening up the part throttle. The advance for larger throttle openings is close. This is all per dyno testing by a few different tuners. We have a map database on the FZ1 forum, I happen to be the "map maven".

The HP gains from remapping and a a CAT free full exhaust are actually pretty significant on the FZ1 - around 18 hp in the midrange. All else being equal, divide by 4 still makes for a 4 to 5 hp midrange bump on a stock WRR, more with your big bore kit. A wide open dyno run only tells a slice of the story. Peak power may rise some, but the midrange power and throttle response increase is no doubt pretty substantial with your mods. The real story, (filled with wheelies, growling up gnarly hills and shooting roost) for a dirt bike, is in midrange and part throttle response.

Nice work!
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:29 PM   #264
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Checking in for future reference.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:42 PM   #265
f3joel
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Thanks for this thread.
And thanks to MotoMind for the cam chain tensioner method.

This is how she should have come stock.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:27 AM   #266
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Thanks for this thread.
And thanks to MotoMind for the cam chain tensioner method.

This is how she should have come stock.
Good deal.....

HF
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The Okie-Dokie BDR Terra-izing the CDR Bergs Over the Rainbow
Texas or Bust! Rocky Mountain HighFive The Other Side of Nowhere
Athena Big Bore Project
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