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Old 01-17-2013, 02:33 PM   #15766
bill pierce
I don't wana pickle
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Rockford, Wa
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hey guy's

I'm having some clearance issues between the chain guide and wide rims.




Its kinda hard to see in the picture but the nut is dangerously close to the tire. Is there a aftermarket chain guide that gives more clearance? Is the chain guide needed for mostly street/forest service roads?

Better picture of the whole bike.

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Old 01-17-2013, 02:46 PM   #15767
PeteN95
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Bill, if you have more room on the other side, you can adjust the spokes to move the rim to the right side. Just loosen the spokes on the left one turn each, tighten the spokes on the right one turn each, and repeat until it is centered.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:17 PM   #15768
Bpeters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
hey guy's

I'm having some clearance issues between the chain guide and wide rims.

Its kinda hard to see in the picture but the nut is dangerously close to the tire. Is there a aftermarket chain guide that gives more clearance? Is the chain guide needed for mostly street/forest service roads?

Better picture of the whole bike.
Quick fix: flip the bolts around so the nut faces to the outside of the swingarm
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #15769
bill pierce
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Location: Rockford, Wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bpeters View Post
Quick fix: flip the bolts around so the nut faces to the outside of the swingarm
I looked at that, the problem is the heads are counter sunk on the wrong side. I can counter sink the other side and use big washers on the nuts. Just not a real clean solution.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:50 PM   #15770
hontri
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Location: Summerland B.C.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I looked at that, the problem is the heads are counter sunk on the wrong side. I can counter sink the other side and use big washers on the nuts. Just not a real clean solution.
Here is what i did.4 years and no problem!





My buddy just left his off altogether. No problems either.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #15771
bill pierce
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hey thanks, that looks like a good solution.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:24 PM   #15772
mattc
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Also make sure that the wheel spacers are in the correct side. Just realized after having the same problems with my Warp9's that the spacers are different offset, so I swapped them, and no more issues.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:42 PM   #15773
lemanster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
I looked at that, the problem is the heads are counter sunk on the wrong side. I can counter sink the other side and use big washers on the nuts. Just not a real clean solution.
Here is another option... this is exactly what I did to mine, works great.

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...hain-guide-mod
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:58 AM   #15774
atreiou
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same issue form me in the past
, with 4.25 rims simply rotate the bolts and keep the nut outside istead inside (not very beautiful but works)

with 5" rim cut the inner plastic wall of the chain guide near the rim..


[QUOTE=bill pierce;20510943]hey guy's

I'm having some clearance issues between the chain guide and wide rims.

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Old 01-18-2013, 08:15 PM   #15775
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemanster View Post
Here is another option... this is exactly what I did to mine, works great.

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...hain-guide-mod
That is what I did to mine and it works well. I have a xrs only chain guide too(I use it with my dirt set) and it does not fit at all with a supermoto rim. The modified stocker works better.

lstzephyr screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 05:11 PM
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:41 PM   #15776
Unsung
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Need a bit of help. I started working on this over a month ago but I had to leave the country. I replaced my clutch center after one of the bolts broke out and hit the cover. I finally got around to putting it all back in today, I didn't try to crank it. The clutch isn't working at all. I put it in neutral and it rolls fine, I kick it in gear and hold the clutch and nothing. The only thing I know of I did wrong was when I put the clutch push rod in, the bike wasn't in neutral. Is this most likely my problem? If I pull the cover off and the pressure plate, and move that rod around do you think it'll pop down somewhere where it should be and work? If not, I have no idea what's going on.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:10 PM   #15777
lstzephyr
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I would open it back up and check to see if you put everything in right. If you did then check the adjustment.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:38 PM   #15778
Cpt. Ron
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsung View Post
Need a bit of help. I started working on this over a month ago but I had to leave the country. I replaced my clutch center after one of the bolts broke out and hit the cover. I finally got around to putting it all back in today, I didn't try to crank it. The clutch isn't working at all. I put it in neutral and it rolls fine, I kick it in gear and hold the clutch and nothing. The only thing I know of I did wrong was when I put the clutch push rod in, the bike wasn't in neutral. Is this most likely my problem? If I pull the cover off and the pressure plate, and move that rod around do you think it'll pop down somewhere where it should be and work? If not, I have no idea what's going on.
When in gear and you pull in the clutch lever, you say "nothing". What do you mean exactly? Does the rear wheel not spin? The clutch rod shouldn't be affected by the transmission gear position when you install it. It just transfers the action through the motor to the clutch pack.

I'm guessing that your clutch plates are sticking a bit since it's sat for some time. With cold oil, there is quite a bit of viscosity to overcome to get the friction and drive plates to "let loose". Try putting the bike in a taller gear, pull in the clutch and then try to spin the rear wheel again. Or, put the bike on the ground (again in a taller gear), pull in the clutch AND decompression levers, and slowly rotate the kickstarter through it's range. That should break the friction and drive plates.
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:09 PM   #15779
Sean-0
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Mumblebum Northern NSW
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I have a set of these tanks up for sale ......ill show you guys first
These are very rare and not available to ya avrage punter

they hold 44 ltrs full exelent setup for long haul

these cost me 515 bucks so thats what there up forsale as
no mounting kit ..has to made by the owner ..not a real big job but skills are needed to fit them

the set i have forsale are clear IE white looking




pm me for more details ... i will post them anywhere
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:10 AM   #15780
achile
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Location: Brasov, Romania
Oddometer: 289
F^%$# carburetor!!!

Hey!

Sorry to bug you, but I have a problem that's driving me crazy!
I overhauled the top end of my piggy(piston rings, valves, seats, springs, camshaft bearings...you get the idea).
I dismantled the carb, cleaned it, set the level, needle setting(the needle is new)...etc.
1) the bike starts very hard
2) when it starts, the idle goes wild(from normal to 3000 revs)
3) very litle response from the air screw(new as well)
4) when I rev it, it dies after releasing the throtle
I suspect an air leak due to worn carb body and throtle valve(the only thing I didn't check). The intake boot is new.

I had this problem before the top end work, but it intensified after. More vacum/compression=more air leaking => leaner mixture??

I found crf 450 carburetors(FCR 41) on ebay. I'm thinking about buying one.


What say you?

Thank you,
Alex
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