Call all XR600R!!!

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by Captain115

Thanks, I took your suggestions and did it that way, although it means that there is a gap between the locking mechanism and the sprocket (where the bolts go through). Doesn't seem like it would come off or anything (thanks Loctite) but does seem odd. Also, I noticed there was some forward and back play on the sprocket, as in I could move it about 2mm in and out on the counter shaft. Didn't really worry me but I thought I'd check this up, just in case.

Now, I wanted to properly look at my front pads so took them out and they are pretty worn, probably will replace them while I'm here. But more importantly, I had a look at the brake pistons, and the tops seem really chipped and cracked. Plus they seem to have an asbestos-type material in the centre of them)?



Could anyone tell me if a) these are still good or stuffed and b) why they don't look like other photos I've seen of XR6 brake pistons?

Cheers,

John

john thats nothing! Ill show your crumbled piston tops that work great!

the pistons are hollow made of a special plastic, they have metal caps that are removable...thats the part that contacts the brake pads...you can take them off, clean them so they are nice and flat and then glue them back on which is what I did....

to clean the pistons you can buff them with some polishing compound, but I would NOT do that unless you want to replace the seals inside the caliper.

cheers

[elsalvadorklr]

here ya go



these brakes kick ass btw as the measure of a good brake is clean fluid and new seals...there are 4 seals, inner seals and outer double lip seals to protect against moisture...

lastly the pistons expand over time as they get dirty...so polishing them makes them smooth as BUTTA

cheers

[Royal Club]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XR600-XR600r...ec5e92&vxp=mtr

saw this on ebay, he doesn't send to EU/Netherlands so maybe one of you guys would want it??

[Royal Club]

Originally Posted by creaky

Yes, had Eddys on 2 stock 600s and an HRC 628, big performance improvement across the board. Unfortunately, Edelbrock no longer markets these carbs and does not provide parts and support. If you can find a new or good used one (Edelbrock # 3113) for a reasonable price, they do last quite a long time with proper maintenance.

found one!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrocks-p...d38dc0&vxp=mtr

For anyone who wants it..

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by Royal Club

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XR600-XR600r...ec5e92&vxp=mtr

saw this on ebay, he doesn't send to EU/Netherlands so maybe one of you guys would want it??

hese from TT...good guy....

dont know if the actual muffler will work for oeam stainless headers for 88-90 bikes...those headers are aftermarket forget the name...

[elsalvadorklr]

Originally Posted by Royal Club

found one!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrocks-p...d38dc0&vxp=mtr

For anyone who wants it..

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa h your killing me

I know of a lot of people, or read about a lot of people who had issues with these carbs on their xrs...I think they just never took the time to tune them

they theoretically are missing a circuit, which in my eyes makes tuning easier!

man

wonder what it goes for

STEVE buy it will ya?

[The Dogger]

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa h your killing me

I know of a lot of people, or read about a lot of people who had issues with these carbs on their xrs...I think they just never took the time to tune them

they theoretically are missing a circuit, which in my eyes makes tuning easier!

man

wonder what it goes for

STEVE buy it will ya?

Here's one :

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855807

Easy to adapt to an XR or not ?

Cheers, Stu

[elsalvadorklr]

looks a bit different to me...wonder what size the first one on ebay is?

3113 model vs this 38?

anywho

finally got my mikuni tm38 to start great, the choke even works...maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan am I stoked

the drop of the pilot size worked, and the new xrl boot....so stoked



there is not even the slightest hint of kickback!

see guys there is a reason I wanted a non autodecomp cam...all in the "tuning" jajajajaja

[elsalvadorklr]

so my moose skiplate has a stripped bolt...the actual head, I hate torx...

whats the best way to take it off, slot the head?

Im getting some noisy creaks now and then and wanted to put more foam between it and the engine...also I wanted to flush my frame strainer...

no can do till I get some advice!

anybody????????????

thanks

[lamebrain]

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

so my moose skiplate has a stripped bolt...the actual head, I hate torx...

whats the best way to take it off, slot the head?

Im getting some noisy creaks now and then and wanted to put more foam between it and the engine...also I wanted to flush my frame strainer...

no can do till I get some advice!

anybody????????????

thanks

Reverse cut drill bit, it usually catches and backs it out. If you dont have access to one then I would use a drill bit that's just a bit bigger than the threaded part of the bolt and pop the head off.

[joexr]

Slot it , drill it or grind it.

[elsalvadorklr]

thanks guys Ill use a combination of methods I guess

[creaky]

Dogger......the carb shown in that link is an older model with no pump. I had one of those that I used on three different bikes, a stock 95 XR00, a '98 HRC 628 and later adapted it to an '00 WR400. In each case, it was a definite improvement in performance over the stock carb. That said, the pumper version is an improvement.

[elsalvadorklr]

man Im on a roll guys!!!!!!!

fixed the skidplate and took off the stripped bolt...

and added foam insulation on the front under the vent holes and under the case towards the back, that and I added more rubber strips on all the frame rails so now there is no metal to metal contact and it worked!

no creaking from the frame twisting on the skidplate! HELL YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!!

next on the list fix my floppy shifter!

soooo per many a recomendation here and on tt I put y shifter in a homemade vice and whipped out the old saw...made a nice long cut, as it took a while on the gap cleaned up the splines a bit and put teflon on the spindle...

then pressed the gap nice and tight, put on spindle, loctite the threads and bingo, bolt screws in nice and tight aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand

no more floppy lever! bam! stoked

I was having issues going into first because if the floppiness...I also bent the shifter out just a smidge

anywhoo

Ill be riding in the afternoon...hopefully I can take some pics...

thanks for all the tips guys

christian

[mcma111]

Christian,

You know we are still waiting for the pic of the Mrs in her bikini.